Might start making 3D models soon

DreN4do

DreN4do

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Hi folks
We might start doing in house 3D models. Probably print about 10 to 15 models a week. So was wondering
what would be good printer to have. Not just a starter for low count production, because we might start doing
more per week than projected.

thank you
Klinger M.A.S.H. 4077
 
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tuyere

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The things I'd consider:
  • What's your budget?
  • What's your experience level with 3D printing?
  • What's your priority here, something that Just Works, economy, somewhere in the middle?
  • Do you expect to branch out beyond just models- like do you wanna print castable wax, nightguards, denture components?
Resin printing technology has made tremendous strides in the past few years, the techniques and design conventions are mature and even cheap machines can do excellent work. an entry-level hobbyist LCD printer is 95% of the way to a commercial dental printer that costs 20 times as much. You can get a shocking lot of mileage from a 'starter' hobby printer like a Phrozen with a big build plate. Small labs can do lots with very little now if the operators are willing to learn the process and make some mistakes at first.
I think the argument for opting for pricey Dental Machines to start out is pretty weak for small labs, unless they're absolutely unwilling to figure stuff out for themselves, which imo is still going to cause you lots of problems because you just can't get consistently excellent results from any printer model withouty understanding the process and its strictures.

So, without knowing more, I would say: get a Phrozen Mighty 8K. Big build plate, fine-resolution for detailed parts, fantastic price tag for what you get (~$650 USD or thereabouts). It's a well-regarded machine with a large userbase for support, there's a spread of dental resins with validated workflows for Phrozen printers so you can print almost anything, it should print very crisp and detailed parts more or less out of the box, and if you need to ramp up production it's practical to just buy additional printers.
You'll also need to deal with post-processing and post-curing, so set up a dedicated bench space for this in a well-ventilated area. It's the worst part of the process, imo, but it's really not as big a deal as some people treat it as. The alcohol fumes are annoying but aren't actively harmful, but the more ventilation you can provide, the better- ideally you can rig up a little fume hood or glovebox setup that is blower-extracted right outside through a window or wall.
For simple model processing, just get a Wash n Cure unit with a spare wash tub so you can run a two-bath workflow, they're less than $200 and will do you just fine until you start printing parts with special requirements (i.e. inert gas/vacuum shielding) like nightguards or denture bits. Get a big silicone mat to work on, get some lab wash bottles and fine bristle brushes to help cleaning prints, you'll need a scraper to pop prints off the plate but they'll always give you a lousy one with the printer- dress the edge with a sharpening stone to remove any burrs and add a single-bevel edge to the scraper and you've just made it a quality tool that won't damage your build plate. Get a bigass box of nitrile gloves and change them frequently so you don't track resin everywhere.
 
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tuyere

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There's an argument for getting a serious commercial printer like an Asiga, because you'll have access to serious product support for businesses, and I agree to a point, but you'll pay an incredible premium for that and not a whole lot more. Commercial printers produce better parts than a Phrozen will, but the difference isn't actually that big for most purposes, and you will often have just as big a headache getting good parts from dental printers as you will from a hobbyist or prosumer model- and if the Phrozen turns out to be a lemon, it doesn't hurt too much to just junk it and buy another, whereas a $30k printer can become a nightmare albatross around your neck if you get unlucky and your vendor is ****.
Higher-end printers can also cost significantly more to operate because of consumables, particularly the imaging hardware and the build trays. LCD-based printers like the Phrozen use an off-the-shelf smartphone/tablet screen to do the light exposure masking, so they're reliable and affordable because they're being manufactured in hundreds of thousands or million-tier quantities, you benefit from economies of scale. Replacing one is straightforward and won't cost too much.
In comparison, our Asiga DLP printers make use of a very expensive and specialized projector + mirror microarray unit that is manufactured especially for that product in small quantities. Replacements cost thousands of dollars, and the projector units often die quite quickly. And they need to be installed by an experienced specialist technician, which you will have to pay another large sum for. Asiga resin trays also cost a couple hundred a pop, and they use RFID tags to artificially limit their lifespans- they stop working after so many prints, even if the tray is in good condition and has more prints in it. With a Phrozen you can just replace the tray FEP membrane yourself indefinitely for 10 bucks a pop.

The far end of this spectrum are Carbon printers, which really do Just Work and produce great results with little effort. I love Carbons, as someone who prints parts and does not pay for the equipment. You'll also pay many thousands of dollars a year to *rent* them, no you can't buy them. I think an M3 Max is, like, 100-125k per year, before considering consumables, tray rentals, etc. For the cost of one Carbon for a year, you could build an enormous fleet of Phrozens with, like, 50x the capacity. Not that they're interchangeable like that, but my point is you can save an enormous amount of money by being willing to learn a new skill and figure things out for yourself.
 
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tuyere

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Hobbyist printers for dental purposes are established enough that even very novel and cutting-edge products like Rodin Sculpture (printable nanoceramics for printable crowns! you can stain em just like the real thing!) are validated for Phrozen printers specifically. Starting out with an entry-level printer isn't a significant barrier to the range of work you can tackle, the real barrier there is with post-curing (validated cure boxes for weirder resins are all pretty $$$, bare minimum being an Otoflash running nitrogen)
 
rkm rdt

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I thought he wanted to just print models?
 
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tuyere

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Sure, but once you have the machine and the setup, it opens a lot of doors that you might want to explore, it's one of the things that makes cheap LCD printers such powerful tools for their price-point. Future-proofing isn't just about raw build plate capacity, imo, giving you future options re: digital manufacturing is another facet of that, and even an entry-level resin printer is good for that. And they're *also* great for models. It's worth surveying the overall landscape for someone who's (likely) new to printing.
 

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