Depth and translucency question . .

[Daniela]

Edy, on facebook at this address you can find useful information on NORITAKE
https://www.facebook.com/Noritake.Dental.International?fref=ts

Best site for us users of Ex 3 . Navigate from there to Nondas Vlachopoulos site or see his work on youtube and you have it all.

 

[Edy]

View attachment 5163 View attachment 5162

16-15 pfm EX-3

I mean.. Very nice matching there , love the result and on tip of incisal i usually get same result using the creamy enamel , but pe1 looks more or less the same.

 

[martintay]

When i get time Edy i will post some photo`s of crowns with EX3 with ILS -But it may be a while lol !

As promised Edy.Photographed these this afternoon - really struggling with this macro stuff, the effects are better by eye !!

 

[Edy]

As promised Edy.Photographed these this afternoon - really struggling with this macro stuff, the effects are better by eye !!

lovely crowns Martin , btw , i got 2 days ago the book of Aoshima and dr. chiche , very nice pictures and cases in it , will read it page by page at my first free time

 

[martintay]

Just trying to get this Macro right !! Same crown - slightly different exposure / speed.

 

[Car 54]

I liked in your 1st set of 3, the lighting and amber coming through the Inc 1/3rd. The last set of three has a nice low light to see what looks like Creamy Enamel on top of a translucent on the Inc. corners. Nice work, Martin, let alone the fantastic single central. Your photography is looking good as well

 

[martintay]

I liked in your 1st set of 3, the lighting and amber coming through the Inc 1/3rd. The last set of three has a nice low light to see what looks like Creamy Enamel on top of a translucent on the Inc. corners. Nice work, Martin, let alone the fantastic single central. Your photography is looking good as well

Thankyou., but i`m really struggling to get the result with macro ! The crowns have more colour and texture than the photo`s suggest But hopefully i will improve.

 

[martintay]

Practicing macro again ! This time with a ring-flash . Camera set to appature priority f32 and flash on manual 1/64.And playing with "exposure compensation " on the camera. ISO200. Also covered half of the ring on some shots to cut down the light.

 

[Car 54]

I'm getting to distracted with the incredible central...that's something you would see in a published article, very nice. Keep playing around with your camera settings, but even more so, keep up the excellent ceramic work

 

[paulg100]

looking better martin and very nice work!

I spent some time with some photography play today as well. Finally starting to get the hang of my lighting and softbox set up.

 

[martintay]

I'm getting to distracted with the incredible central...that's something you would see in a published article, very nice. Keep playing around with your camera settings, but even more so, keep up the excellent ceramic work

Thanks , i just remembered the cental was Avante` ( a very translucent ceramic ) not EX3 as i previously thought. The others are Emax on Zr.

 

[martintay]

looking better martin and very nice work!

I spent some time with some photography play today as well. Finally starting to get the hang of my lighting and softbox set up.

Very nice Paul. Am i on the right lines with the settings ?

 

[Dentalmike]

Practicing macro again ! This time with a ring-flash . Camera set to appature priority f32 and flash on manual 1/64.And playing with "exposure compensation " on the camera. ISO200. Also covered half of the ring on some shots to cut down the light.

Hey martintay. Thought I'd throw down some perspective on camera settings for macro ( 1:2 or closer on lens magnification) with camera mounted ring or dual-point, without extra gadgets like filters, reflectors. There are two ways, full manual or auto settings.

Full manual ( camera set m on top dial, then shutter( ex: 125th) aperture F22 and flash set to m or manual using the flash LCD and buttons ). Of course iso100 white Bal flash or your liking of custom or otherwise. How to control exposure ( brighter or darker pic) changing power setting on flash unit stronger or weaker is what accomplishes this. 1/1 is most power and 1/64 may be least power for settings. You can move Fstop to tweek exposure as well.

Auto Style, there are a couple of ways, first the easiest. ( camera set to m , manual, 125th shutter, F22 aperture with flash set to auto ex: ttl, ettl in LCD area) same iso and white bal as manual setting. Control exposure:brighter or darker: pic by changing flash unit settings, usually with a setting button and up or down buttons, the readings on flash LCD will change in 1/3 increments to plus or minus all the wat to 3 in think, I never go that far. The other way. Camera set to A aperture priority F22 and sync to flash in custom settings for 1/200 or 1/250th depending if you have this option, flash set to ttl, ettl depending on brand these letters will be different.
Control exposure: brighter or darker: make changes on flash as described or use exposure compensation settings on camera body.

I like auto style and control exposure with flash body. The killer on this way is the metal on a shade tab can still throw everything off, so doc usually takes bad pic then covers metal with finger in next one. I can work bad photo enough to see tab info.

Not a big fan of manual because if hand holding, the exposure can still be all over the place because of the range of sharpness when focusing allows for closer or futher distance movement before hitting shutter button, while the flash is set for a fixed distance.

Why f22. Don't know how to lay it out like a pro photographer. I'll do my best. Because of how lenses and light works the sharpest photo comes from a lens middle aperture usually f8 f11. Because of light diffraction, going to lens highest Fstop may give most field depth, but will decrease sharpness. So for me f22 is enough depth and gives good sharpness.

You can use these styles for starting place when playing with alternate flash setups. Most problems come down to the pic needs brighter or darker for me. I try to still use auto style because the light is so sensitive for macro. good luck, happy shooting.

 

[martintay]

Thankyou for your time and great detailed explaination Mike , much appreciated . This macro sure is not easy Best Regards Martin.

 

[martintay]

Ps someone sent me a private message and i accidently deleted it before reading ! Sorry

 

[Edy]

Martin and i thought those were ex3

 

[martintay]

Martin and i thought those were ex3

All the others were Edy.

 

[ts4341]

Edy, in one of your first posts in this thread, you talked about Noritake looking dead. Switching to Inline isn't the answer. Noritake dentin's are translucent and light goes right thru the crown and bounce back creating a dead look.(Inline will do the same if deep dentin in not used.) .02mm of Opacious Body in needed to create a more natural appearance. Also you may consider keeping the vac. on during the glaze cycle up to 880c then continue without vac to 910c. A light rubber wheel and polishing paste will help high light the crown.. Yes, every oven fires different and the TX test is key, but also the height and position in the oven can differ.. run several tests to find what works best for you.. my two cents.. Thanks T