For implants I do the following to make a model with a soft-tissue and removable adjacent teeth.
Squirt the GI Mask with the gun around the implant(s) in impression. The height is up to the junction of implant-to-abutment..and add just a little. You really want maximum surface area of the exposed implant analog to be locked or held into your base stone. Often, hard grinding on metal/Zirconia will "chatter" the stone and break the analog out of position. Don't cover the implant analog with too much GI mash in the verticle dimention. If you think you added too much GI mask, then cut it rather then wiping it. For the width of the GI mask.....you want it to cover all of the gingiva on both sides and into the adjacent teeth maybe just a little. When it gets hard, trim with a knife perpendicular to the implant, just at the neck of adjacent tooth. A special burr is needed to trim this soft silicone material in the actual socket if you want a smooth surface to wax against. It looks like a very agressive burr, like a porcupine. Nothing else cuts it worth a darn in a rotory instrument and a knife leaves a very ragged surface, not kind to wax.
Next, I pour stone on both sides on the GI Mask, and hand drop brass pins into the stone. Then, cut some more "keys" or shapes into stone when it gets hard. I write names, and shapes to be creative....slap on some lube and flip the whole enchliata into a base mould with vac-mixed stone.
You can then just pull out the side pieces, and the analog stays in the base.
Very easy working model for implants. You hand-set the pins in wet stone. I have no idea how some labs are grinding the interprox-contacts on a solid model. Which contact do you grind?? I can't work like that.
I wish our customers would PLEAAAAAAAASE do this. The solid models for implant cases are next to worthless!!!
Hard/impossible to scan without removable adjacent teeth sometimes.
Scott