You don't wax the veneers on investment. If you are going to use e.max, do your model work as usual, wax your veneers( either full contour for press and stain, or cut back for layering with porcelain.
I have used two methods for refractory veneers.
1.) Complete your model work as usual, including die spacer. Then duplicate the model, and preps with impression material. Pour the impression using a refractory investment, we use Nori-vest for Nortitake, or GC Vest from GC America. Let the pour set up in the impression for at least one hour, then burnout the refractory to 1500*F for one hour. Next run a degas cycle in your porcelain under vacuum up to 1976*F hold for fifteen minutes. Let the refractory model cool. Soak model in water before running a wash bake, then follow your normal porcelain build up methods, glaze , divest , and fit to master cast.
2.) We also use the foil technique. Swedge platinum foil to your master cast, lift off, deaden the foil over a flame, quench, re-apply to model, then normal porcelain build-up.
Both of these methods are much more labor intensive than a cut back e.max layered with porcelain.
Before using the Opal 1 ingots, make sure to check you final shade. The Opal 1's don't block a lot of color and are very bright. They are meant for thin veneers to re-contour, and slightly adjust the shade.
I hope some of this information is helpful to you.
