Willi Geller shades problem...

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One of the things I would do if I were a teacher; make the students sit in front of an old porcelain oven...at least as old as a Ney Mark III, so they had to learn how to bring glass to maturity. As technology advances, we get comfortable just pushing a button. Theres a lot to learn.
 
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If firing clear/translucent porcelain is not working, try good old "Old School Technology" tried and true techniques. Back when techs were techs, smoked & drank beer at the bench, and porcelain was stacked with metal instruments and high end paint by number brushes . lol

How do you know if your opaque and dentin porcelain is fired correctly,,, Visual using "Old School Techniques" Start by using a test crown using suggested firing temps as the beginning temp.
Opaque should have a slight sheen, which is just beyond the so called eye shell
Bis-Bake..... High finish, and just under a glaze.
Add- Ons... Drop temp each addition firing, aprox 5 to 10c ,, check user manual !

Glazing: I prefer to be able to control the porcelain surface/ texture, more so with the kind of tools I'm using. Example... green stones can leave a very smooth surface, and to much for my liken, if you know what I mean.
I prefer assorted diamond and the newer wheels, disks, like the ones we use to pre polish, adjust emax, zirconia. Tools like these gives me more control on the surface for glazing, rather than increasing high temp which can give over glazed glassy surface and rounded off edges.
Adding a hint of glaze powder with your stain liquid can help on over looked surfaces that are slightly to rough. Polishing after glazing is preferred rather than over firing to achieve a high glaze.........

fyi Back in the later 70's or early 80's Flex P who worked for Vita and lectured all over the world taught me to fire bisbakes on the high end and forget about the temp. Since then I rarely calibrate my "porcelain oven" and only because I will need to change all my locked in visual temps again.
 
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desertfox384

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I've always gone by surface texture for porcelain and with inline I fire opaque to a slight sheen and 1st bakes to an eggshell texture. When this topic came up I wanted to see how far off I was from getting a good "clear" tab. I'll revisit this with platinum foil instead of a tray liner!
 
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http://www.fotosik.pl/pokaz_obrazek/4a5f4b567f45e036.html

yesterday I did 3p unit, everything goes well. But I wonder about bonder result. As you can see almost while crown is yellow, only on cervical area is dark yellow, gold... My suppliers said 'don't worry, i don't now what it is, but everything should be ok'. And everything was ok, but I don't know why bonder was like it was. I use willi geller bonder and Starbond CoS alloy.
 
GG - J

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So I've made clear's chunks. First at 920*C, second at 930*C. But I don't see any difference. Maybe I'm blind, I dont know. I've mada a photo, but it's poor quality, I don't know if you will see anything. It doesn't look like glass, rather like frosty window. Tickness of those chunks is about 0,7mm.
acf300c671296c9c.html


Link: http://www.fotosik.pl/pokaz_obrazek/acf300c671296c9c.html
Try wetting tabs with some glaze liquid and placing them on news paper
if fired properly you should be able to read letters threw the clo tab ( clear tab)
 
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