D. Sign Porcelain

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dentcre

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I started using dsign just a few days ago to try it out,, I have had no cracks or tearing at all , im using destiled water though...

the shades are exact I like this stuf,,and its very SOFT !! to grind


..
 
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charles007

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If your porcelain starts running down your fingers from using using distilled water, try cutting the build-up liquid with distilled water until you can live with the tearing that you will see with the build-up liq........
Its no fun not having to do add-ons..........
 
NicelyMKV

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Xpedent has a great liquid. I just ask for their blue build up liquid when I order it. Zero pulls or tears with Dsign or VM13. Handles great too. I still like the handling of Ivoclars Empress build up liquid the best followed by Smile Lines Advanced liquid. You will still get a few tears etc with those. Xpedents blue liquid really blew my mind though. It still handles excellent just no tears. Hope it helps someone.
 
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dentcre

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xpedent bredent liquid .

order it ,,used it and its incredible,,,
 
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dentcre

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this liquid is incredible ,,,LOL LOL ,,sorry couldnt resist to say it again...
 
Travis

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Would xpedent work with inline?
 
Travis

Travis

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I need some d.sign liquid. So I might look into it. It would be nice to have a liquid for three porc setups.
 
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dentcre

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yes it is,,once you recieve it,, it comes in a diferent bottle
made in germany.

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fotis-84

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my father is using ceramco 3 for years,but when we had bought the ep 5000 and the emax kit ,i have started to use d.sign because ivoclar technicians told me that it has the same philosopy with emax.baut i think it's more difficult than emax.has anyone the right temperatures for d.sign?i use the standart firing programm and built up liquid from ivoclar but it makes still my life difficult...
 
TheLabGuy

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Fotis.......
d.Sign porcelain is the most difficult porcelain out there to work with. As someone who's worked extensively with d.Sign for the last 8 years, I must confess, I have challenges even till today, for me that's what makes it interesting. I like to compare it to my golf game, some days it's right on the money, and other days, it makes you appreciate the good days. Keep at it, it gets easier, refer to earlier posts for more specific help.
 
CRWNMKR

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The conversion works great with fully layered E max crowns also!
 
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AL1

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I fixed my tearing by whetting my units so that they are slightly shiney just before they go into the oven. This is supposed to wick out the deeper moisture and prevent a crust on the outside that will eventually crack from the inner moisture trying to escape.
 
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fotis-84

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I have great news.i had layered a 4 unit bridge with d.sign.i have sprinkled dentin on the second dry opaque and i used smile line u-mid liquid.when i finished the layering i dried my bridge very good and i baked it.with a second bake for some small corrections the bridge was ready......

thank you very much for your help...best regards..
 
Travis

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Fotis.......
d.Sign porcelain is the most difficult porcelain out there to work with. As someone who's worked extensively with d.Sign for the last 8 years, I must confess, I have challenges even till today, for me that's what makes it interesting. I like to compare it to my golf game, some days it's right on the money, and other days, it makes you appreciate the good days. Keep at it, it gets easier, refer to earlier posts for more specific help.


Seeing Als work have you considered in-line?
 
TheLabGuy

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Referring to Al, it wouldn't matter what porcelain he used.........
As for in-line, it doesn't have the flourapites, and in-line is more of a production porcelain versus d.Sign. If I'm considering a production porcelain, I would HIGHLY think about going with GC's one-powder build up.........They call it GC IQ One Body. Only one powder to build, minimum two bakes and a lustre paste you can use on any type of porcelain.......Very FAST technique.
 
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fotis-84

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what metal do you use with d.sign? what CT must my metal have?with aurilloy np with ceramco is perfect but with d.sign i have cracks in big restorations..
 
sixonice

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d.SIGN likes the CTE of the alloy to be between 14.0 up to 14.8 It is most happy with using alloys say from 14.1 - 14.7. Once you reach the high 14's and low 15's you run the risk of coefficiency stresses.
 

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