TheLabGuy
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I've been working with D. Sign pretty intensive lately and happened to work with one of Ivoclar's technicians yesterday. We found some tricks I wanna share with you all. I still consider D. Sign one of the most prettiest porcelains out there. With that in mind, fire temps are very important, don't underfire this porcelain. The liquid ivoclar provides is junk. Use Jim Emmons "new brite build liquid" for D. Sign porcelain, less tearing, less shrinkage, easier to handle. For add-ons, use the E.Max Add-On, use the A-O incisal and the A-O dentin, just remember the E.Max fires about 120 degrees Fahrenheit lower. This will help because D.Sign's correction blows. Also, the most important realization that I've come to is that you MUST have proper metal support. Ivoclar has a metal support catalog for D.Sign and I suggest reading it, very important. If you have greater areas of porcelain, the bulky areas will always pull toward those areas during firing. Also, the best trinket of wisdom I can pass along is something I received from the salesman is the Vita-3d conversion chart........and let me tell you, it's awesome, I nailed a 4m1, 5m1, and 3m1 on the first try, no staining, the conversions are right on the money. If you need this, just pm me, i'll send it to ya. Keep the entry temp low (600 F),but you can dry it to much which will cause tearing as well. It's finicky, but overall, a beautiful porcelain. Unless your metal work is perfect, guaranteed your going to have 2 bakes (build ups). I build the whole thing up, including incisal, then bake it, then fill in any voids, or pulls at the margin, comes out great. Some guys just prefer to do the dentin build up, then bake, then add the incisal and bake for the 2nd time, that works just as good. Hope this helps.