3Shape + Chitubox questions

[Car 54]

Hello, I need your help, please

When I create an order for doing a printed model in 3Shape (2021) we need to select some type of restoration type correct, in order to proceed?
When I created the cam, it did not create a zip file but everything was in the folder. Is that normal? When I put the lower on the build plate in Chitubox, then import the upper, they merge as one piece, and not separate. I tried slicing the lower, and then importing the upper, but again, they both connect together and move together. Chitubox 1.9.5

I had gone with Configuration 11 in the order form, as I just wanted to see what it would do, of how it would turn out. For your model options, what are some of you using?
Otherwise, everything else looks good. The model is hollowed out.

 

[Car 54]

I think I figured it out. I need to save each addition of the build plate to a folder, then re-open it to add another piece to it.
Is that how it usually works, with the free edition? It's printing as I post. The Mini 8K S says it's going to take 2 hours and 10 minutes to print.

 

[tuyere]

Consider trying your nesting and set-up with a different slicer software, chitu is.... adequate, but not great. When I had to use Chitu to send prints to my Mars Pro, I did most setup in Prusa (better supports, more muscular nesting and orientation features, nice extras like adding labels, cutting parts and adding assembly pins/holes, etc),exported as an STL including supports, dropping that into Chitu and using it just for slicing and generating the build file.

Also- are you printing those parts off the build plate, with supports onto a raft? I'd just print them directly without supports or a raft ( the die will still need supports),you get better results and the supports offer no real benefits here.

 

[Car 54]

Thank you for your helpful reply, @tuyere I appreciate it.

Yep, it has the raft and supports, so I'll give printing directly to the build plate a try. I wonder if it may also print a little quicker that way.
I've downloaded Prusa and will check out a couple of YouTube videos to see what it's about. This guy also has an Advanced video as well.

 

[Affinity]

it will definitely print quicker without the rafts. I have a few to print tonight too, I will give it a try too.

 

[tuyere]

Thank you for your helpful reply, @tuyere I appreciate it.

Yep, it has the raft and supports, so I'll give printing directly to the build plate a try. I wonder if it may also print a little quicker that way.
I've downloaded Prusa and will check out a couple of YouTube videos to see what it's about. This guy also has an Advanced video as well.

Printing flat on the plate improves dimensional accuracy and produces a very smooth and level base that makes working with it easier, and prints will go faster + need less sprue trimming in post-processing to boot. Do it whenever you can, pretty much, unless you can't place stuff flat for space reasons.

 

[tuyere]

...that said, if you absolutely have to float something without a flat base on supports, like nightguards, denture teeth etc,using a raft is always a good idea, it guarantees you'll get good adhesion to the build plate (or at least much better than a bunch of individual supports will have) and makes de-plating much tidier. It also reduces the likelihood of individual supports breaking off and floating free in the resin because they're all tied together through the raft.

 

[Car 54]

I did watch the YouTube video of PrusaSlicer right up to the point where it didn't show Phrozen being compatible. I installed it anyway on a laptop just to check it out, and confirmed that that newest download version, doesn't support Phrozen either. I don't mind, as with the little experience I have Chitubox has been doing pretty good, with Dennys Wang's help

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=chitubox+dennys+wang

My seperate die design needs improvement. But for being my first one... The top flat of the iTero articulator area is shiny, countertop smooth.

 

[Car 54]

...that said, if you absolutely have to float something without a flat base on supports, like nightguards, denture teeth etc,using a raft is always a good idea, it guarantees you'll get good adhesion to the build plate (or at least much better than a bunch of individual supports will have) and makes de-plating much tidier. It also reduces the likelihood of individual supports breaking off and floating free in the resin because they're all tied together through the raft.

Some nice tips, it makes sense

 

[sirmorty]

This is just my experience but I find that if you print models with the iTero articulator and place them flat on the build platform.
You will have a tough time getting it to mount into the holes on the metal articulator and it wont be at the correct height for the articulator.

I find this was because of the first layer printer settings and how usually it is over exposed to help the print stick to the build platform.

 

[Car 54]

This is just my experience but I find that if you print models with the iTero articulator and place them flat on the build platform.
You will have a tough time getting it to mount into the holes on the metal articulator and it wont be at the correct height for the articulator.

I find this was because of the first layer printer settings and how usually it is over exposed to help the print stick to the build platform.

Thank you, sirmorty, that is helpful information, as with the raft and supports it fits very nicely in the iTero articulator. Maybe if I used the Veritex articulator it would be okay to have it flat on the build plate, but those iTero articulators are so wonderfully engineered.

 

[Car 54]

I did figure it out regarding adding multiple objects to the build plate, just highlight the models and dies in the CAD folder, drag them onto the Chitubox build plate, and arrange them from there. Nice, quick, and easy

 

[Car 54]

In copying and tweaking Argen's Carbon model .dme a bit, and a couple of Model builder advanced settings, I'm getting some nice passive fitting removable dies. I will now start printing all (hopefully) of my iTero and PrimeScan models. I could easily see myself getting another Mini 8K S to be more efficient and use as a back up. At ~$350.00 for the unit, and so far with what Chitubox free offers, that's hard to beat....unless the shoe drops and I find something out, or cases (standard C&B cases) that may need to be sent out. No way am I doing, at least for now, anything implant printed wise, as I'm not sure a free software is up to that task.

 

[Car 54]

Could a person take to much resin off the dies (especially) when I'm cleaning them in IPA? Can resin be abraded off, before it's light cured? Right now, I'm using a soft paint brush to clean them up after I take them off the build plate. I clean the models up and put in the Elegoo wash station. The gaps in the basket are to wide and dies would fall through. Is using an ultrasonic a better idea for dies?

 

[tuyere]

Washing won't remove any resin, no, not if it's properly cured, and if you're using normal non-abrasive cleaning tools like a brush.
Use a smaller container with a finer mesh for dies. Most people use a tea-ball, I, naturally, designed myself a bayonet-locking die wash tray:




I put it together because I wanted to maximize through-flow of solvent, with big screen holes (1.5mm round holes and smaller slots) in a wide, flat container that lets me spread the dies out properly. I find the fine mesh in a tea-ball clogs too easily, and keeping the dies in a ball isn't conducive to good cleaning, dies in the middle of the ball don't always get washed as well as they should.

You don't need a fancy tray, though, start with a tea-ball or (ideally) a bigger herb ball with a coarser screen, it should meet your needs well.

 

[Car 54]

Thank you, @tuyere I appreciate the helpful reply. LOL, of course you designed your wash tray system, it looks good, nice job

 

[Car 54]

@tuyere you got me thinking, I have some zirconia coloring dipping baskets that I could cut the center post out, glue some guides around one of the top edges to help guide two of them together and rubberband them together to make a die basket. I bought them from @rc75 of TD Dental. I'm pretty sure I was on the back end of the supply he had in stock.

Dipping Jars $2

These little plastic jars will make your life a lot easier for those of you dipping your crowns. These have a cool little basket on the inside to hold multiple crowns at once so there's no need to dip 1 at a time. These measure 55mm x 62mm. We spent a lot of time testing different size jars and...

dentallabnetwork.com

 

[Car 54]

@tuyere I was thinking of a metal mesh screen, and cutting it to be a basket within a basket, but at Ace Hardware the sales lady mentioned maybe a sink strainer when I showed her what I was trying to do. It's prefect, it rests across the lower wire ledge. the IPA just over the top (2000ml) and it does swirl inside the strainer. I could even adjust the holes and gaps to make them a bit wider for more agitation if needed.