Cracked up!

JonB

JonB

Active Member
Full Member
Messages
328
Reaction score
5
I believe these alloys have about a 100º latitude on burnout temps - maybe more - but 1500º is the recommended temp.
If the alloy was getting burned up in casting, wouldn't the "button" have rounded edges? That's what I learned and though we cast to get very little button - what we do get is sharp.

I'm not one to leave things to luck - as it is an undefinable quantity. Nice word that means nothing - but makes you feel good about it. There has got to be something I'm missing! Some little logical thing. Something based in reality that can be fixed.
 
Flipperlady

Flipperlady

Well-Known Member
Full Member
Messages
2,325
Reaction score
194
I believe these alloys have about a 100º latitude on burnout temps - maybe more - but 1500º is the recommended temp.
If the alloy was getting burned up in casting, wouldn't the "button" have rounded edges? That's what I learned and though we cast to get very little button - what we do get is sharp.

I'm not one to leave things to luck - as it is an undefinable quantity. Nice word that means nothing - but makes you feel good about it. There has got to be something I'm missing! Some little logical thing. Something based in reality that can be fixed.

Not necesarily. Do you put a resevoir on your sprues?
 
Tom Moore

Tom Moore

Well-Known Member
Full Member
Messages
1,642
Reaction score
194
Jon,
I think it may not be one problem but a combo. Because this is seen on one dentist and not others using the same material you may be close to the CTE limits and not know it. This dentist’s prep may have a design that concentrates the stress and releases it in the period of time from final QC to arriving at the dental office.

I have had half moon stress cracks form within 24 hours on anteriors that the coping was not designed to overcome long cone shaped preps.

I would buy some matching paste opaque and try that. It could solve the problem for this one account and back everything to the middle of the metal and the porcelain CTE.
Tom
 
rkm rdt

rkm rdt

Well-Known Member
Full Member
Messages
21,457
Reaction score
3,288
Jon,
I think it may not be one problem but a combo. Because this is seen on one dentist and not others using the same material you may be close to the CTE limits and not know it. This dentist’s prep may have a design that concentrates the stress and releases it in the period of time from final QC to arriving at the dental office.

I have had half moon stress cracks form within 24 hours on anteriors that the coping was not designed to overcome long cone shaped preps.

I would buy some matching paste opaque and try that. It could solve the problem for this one account and back everything to the middle of the metal and the porcelain CTE.
Tom

Correct!
 
Hary

Hary

Active Member
Full Member
Messages
293
Reaction score
18
Hi try 2 things 1) when doing paste opac try to dry on a hot plate for at least 4 minutesthen put it in the furnace
2) when using that purticular aloy use longer time in the cool time in the furnace.
 
dmonwaxa

dmonwaxa

Well-Known Member
Full Member
Messages
2,740
Reaction score
233
I agree it's a CTE issue all the way. And as Tom mentioned an issue with preps and metal design for that particular doc. The porcelain could also be under tensile stress, which would lead back to fmk design.
 
JonB

JonB

Active Member
Full Member
Messages
328
Reaction score
5
Thanks everyone - i do appreciate all your brainstorming on this. As with any session like this - let me act as the foil to your suggestions and give feedback to add as we go through this.

Now in technicolor...
awww.jonberryphoto.com_photos_i_PLLx3wK_0_L_i_PLLx3wK_L.jpg
awww.jonberryphoto.com_photos_i_vhNrdXf_0_L_i_vhNrdXf_L.jpg

Ok - lets review - I'm a jerk :D (quality is never a popularity contest) when it comes to metal design and i have been disliked by nearly every metal finisher that has had to have their work approved before i let it in the porcelain room - and the number of units now after 35+ years number 100,000+ ... literally not figuratively.

That said - i know what makes for proper framework design. So lets get that off the table... besides, I personally cast and finish these units. So I know its done correctly. Add to this my noble alloy accounts for 50% of the work we do and the high noble alloy accounts for about 40% of the rest of it. No such problems exist with the high noble alloy - though the frame design is essentially the same and the finishing is done the same as well. If it were affecting one alloy, it is logical to think it would affect the other as well - all things being equal in every other variable.

Alloy in question is Argelite 75+6 with CTE between 14.3 and 14.5.
(high noble alloy is Argedent 45 - with CTE between 14.1 & 14.3)
The Noritake EX-3 CTE is compatible between 13. 4 - 14.5.

Using a hotplate to dry opaque is a nice idea that is fundamentally flawed. The idea is that the heat from a furnace from the outside creates a shell of dry or vitrified opaque or porcelain and then when the coping heats up inside the furnace the moisture boils out causing heat tears and bubbles. Problem is - a hot plate does essentially the same thing from the bottom up. (If you've ever worked with a hot plate - like i did for over two years - you know its 6 of one and half dozen of the other and makes no significant difference in the long run. For a while we even used a Howmedica device that you put the tray in at one end and a metal conveyor belt moved it ever closer to a low side heat source till it got to the other end when a beeper went off and you could move the tray to a real furnace - a lovely piece of junk that some uninformed salesperson sold to an equally uninformed denture set-up-man-lab-owner who opened a C&B dept.)

--
Now new wrinkles since last we talked that change the developing picture.

A second dentist has had one crack that was sent back late last week. Same alloy and this one still with the last batch of Ceramco opaque. His preps are totally different than Doc A, and I've worked with him for over 25 years and never had this problem with his preps or my finishing/design.

Not only that, a second crown of his cracked today before it ever left the lab - this one using Noritake opaque.

Back story - the returned crown was fired to see if the crack went away. It was a small under 2mm crack running from the margin up into the incisal from the distal lingual margin (indicating a CTE issue). After firing, the crack was gone... until I steamed it after polishing it. Then there were then three cracks.
The second crown did not have any cracks after polish or after sandblasting the inside - but one showed up after steaming it.

Its our practice to steam the waxy polish material out of or off of the crowns prior to final check out. None of the other crowns from today's batch were affected.

So - logically, 1) the steam is introducing the cracks - but only as a means of uncovering an underlying problem elsewhere. Should be able to steam off a crown after all since its not getting hot enough to expand the metal. 2) its not the brand of opaque, as it happens with both Ceramco and Noritake, 3) the alloy is the only consistent piece of the puzzle and it seems there is a CTE issue going on.

Now what possible factors can contribute to a CTE issue?

I disagree that the button doesn't tell you when the alloy is overcooked. It does 99% of the time. Safely within any margin of error.

The burnout temp is accurate at 1500 for both alloys.
The torch is set the same and alloy melted in the reducing zone for both alloys.
After finishing is complete, copings are put into ultrasonic distilled water for about 10 minutes, then placed on a paper towel and dried.
Placed on a firing tray they are oxidized at 1200 to 1850, held for 5 minutes in air. They are then sandblasted to remove excess oxide and again ultrasonic in dist. water, dried and opaqued.
Opaque is dried below a Whip Mix Pro 100 furnace at 900ºƒ and entry time is 8 minutes.
Then allowed to cool and porcelain is built, cut in and glazed in standard fashion.

--
Is it possible the torch tip is getting old and shooting bronze oxidation into the alloy that would affect one alloy and not the other?

Is it possible the crucible is affecting the alloy? (though both alloys crucibles were changed - new - recently)

Is it possible the air compressor and air dryer are introducing contaminates during sandblast prior to oxidation that cannot be seen after oxidation?
awww.jonberryphoto.com_photos_i_PLLx3wK_0_L_i_PLLx3wK_L.jpg awww.jonberryphoto.com_photos_i_vhNrdXf_0_L_i_vhNrdXf_L.jpg
 
Last edited:
araucaria

araucaria

Balanced
Full Member
Messages
1,219
Reaction score
78
Everything was fine until recently, so something's changed.
Has the supply chain been informed ? Could the alloy not be what it claims to be ? There could be others experiencing similar issues. Maybe a poor quality control or contamination with the porcelain & opaquing materials? Is it any shade? Equipment Calibrations ? What are the things/processes that these cracked crowns have in common that differentiates from the 'ok' crowns?
this is very puzzling.
 
dmonwaxa

dmonwaxa

Well-Known Member
Full Member
Messages
2,740
Reaction score
233
"Alloy in question is Argelite 75+6 with CTE between 14.3 and 14.5."

From Noritake website
Solution / Answer (1)
If the CTE of the metal is outside the range of 13. 4 - 14.5 *10-6 [°C]-1 on the 25-500°C scale you must change metals. (For non-precious the range is reduced to 13.9 - 14.1*10-6 [°C]-1 on the 25-500°C scale).


JonB, I suspect the cte is too close to the upper limits hence the porcelain is not in a very compressive state, but closer to a tensile state leading to cracking.

BTW, in no way was I insinuating a lack of knowledge around the bench. FWIW.....

edit.....after thought
Notice from the pics it appears the cracks a re propagating from the margins where the porcelain to metal ratio is close together or probably less, making the porcelain less compressive in that area; you can tell by the opaque show thru. Look at the difference in the interproximal where there is more porcelain,or on the lingual of the molar. The porcelain is least compressive in the thin areas making it weaker compared to the thicker areas , kinda like a fault line, the weakest link. Because the stress needs to be released its released in the area where its under tension (thin) due to the greater compressive force (thicker) pulling circumfrentially in both directions = Vertical cracks.
 
Last edited:
rkm rdt

rkm rdt

Well-Known Member
Full Member
Messages
21,457
Reaction score
3,288
Al is intercepting your cases and staining check lines on your crowns.
 
JonB

JonB

Active Member
Full Member
Messages
328
Reaction score
5
Yes - i agree the CTE is on the upper limit. Interesting thing, while composing that last post, we were also checking with ZAHN who sells us our Noritake EX-3 and I was also looking at the Noritake website at the same info you posted.

The Zahn rep looked it up in their book and came back with a 13.4 to 14.4 number, while the Noritake website says 14.5 at the upper limit. Sometings might fishy awound hea. Though i don't know it that is enough to make the difference.

Also please note - there is no crack on the distal - both cracks are running up the buccal on both the bi and the molar. (it just looks like a crack on the distal. Its not.) ***edit**** there is a crack on the buccal of the molar, AND a crack on the lingual of about the same size and position. The photo is actually of the mesio-lingual area and the "crack" looking bulge on the mesial is actually a shadow and some white stain slightly puddled in the interproximal. (my bad, those are the docs pics and i posted them with only a cursory glance) ***

The big change we may be looking for is that we switched to Noritake porcelain - but that has been months ago. We were using Synspar which has a CTE of 13.8 to 15.2 - so its much more forgiving than the Noritake.

--
ha - only AL could paint in a crack and make it look like a real one!
 
Last edited:
desertfox384

desertfox384

Active Member
Full Member
Messages
691
Reaction score
74
Noritakes website sometimes differs when compared to their older manuals. They seem to have updated some things lately. I use Callisto 75 from Ivoclar and Talladiums NP with perfect success.
 
rkm rdt

rkm rdt

Well-Known Member
Full Member
Messages
21,457
Reaction score
3,288
I use Ex3 with Argelite 61 and I never degass/ oxidize .I just trim,sandblast and opaque.
 
JonB

JonB

Active Member
Full Member
Messages
328
Reaction score
5
We don't use any NP in the lab and this dr wouldn't buy it if we did. Though i have tried an ounce of Noblecrown NF - which is the next best thing. Not wild about it either.


Argelite 61 Argen CTE = 14.5 14.7 looks like a recipe for trouble! Noritake 's max is 14.5 - plus the high silver content can be a problem eventually, at first on your trays and then your muffle.

Dr. just called - the one with the most issues - another crack came in from the mail. This time i had made the crown with the Argedent 45 and Noritake porcelain. This is the first high noble to have the problem. I must be snake bit!
Right now I'm considering going back to Synspar/Isis since it has an upper limit of 15.2.

anyone want to buy a dental lab?
 
Last edited:
user name

user name

Well-Known Member
Full Member
Messages
6,960
Reaction score
1,633
This is hands down a CTE and metal design issue. When you build up the frame for correct porcelain support and thin down the metal around the margins, youve exasperated the CTE issue because the coping heats and cools too quick around the circumference but holds heat in the heavier parts. The cracks showed up in your hand not because of the steam cleaner but because the porcelain was under alot of tension. If you build up an area of the metal, carry some extra down towards the margin in the lobe of the cusps, and over fire your first coat of porcelain a little. Slow the cool down just a bit and all should be well.
 
dmonwaxa

dmonwaxa

Well-Known Member
Full Member
Messages
2,740
Reaction score
233
How Much?:D:D:D

Who wants to buy a sinking ship,,,,Sounds like buying the Titanic,,,,,,,,,,, popcornpopcornpopcornpopcornpopcornpopcornpopcornpopcornpopcorn

just Kidding wutcha
 
lcmlabforum

lcmlabforum

Well-Known Member
Full Member
Messages
1,476
Reaction score
160
Stupid question here

Have you tried to cast with a brand new crucible? if that was contaminated,
all your melted alloy may just pick up something to change property. Assume
you won't know if someone had mixed up and use a N alloy crucible to
cast a HN alloy once, or vice versa.
LCM
 
M

MasterCeramist

Active Member
Full Member
Messages
420
Reaction score
38
I would strip down a framework and redo it with your synspar and see how it goes. If it cracks again then it is probably a problem with the metal if it doesn't crack then it is most likely a cte issue between ceramic and metal.
 
Tom Moore

Tom Moore

Well-Known Member
Full Member
Messages
1,642
Reaction score
194
Even if this happened with all new alloy it would take just one stray dwt from another similar looking alloy and this problem could happen. You may want to cut of a sprue and send it to the metal company and see what they say is in it. I think I'd start over with new alloy and only buttons for that until you hear something back.
 
JonB

JonB

Active Member
Full Member
Messages
328
Reaction score
5
Ok -back from hell... with a possible answer (that was already mentioned here)

No cigar, User Name - I been finishing metal work for too long for it to be as you suggest. Thanks though - i appreciate your opinion.

dmonwaxa - not too quick... maybe I'll hang on to it for a while

LCM - yeah i tried that... new crucible... new alloy... the works. and I'm the only one who casts and also the only one to prepare the alloy for casting. I'm meticulous about how its kept, maintained and managed. That wasn't it either - but a great suggestion. Thanks my friend!

MasterC - that was my thoughts too - so i did that last week... results to follow...

TomM - just one stray dwt from where? That doesn't happen here. Maybe in Texas... or China... but not in a little bitty lab where i do most of the work... when I'm not playing golf! ;-)

Here is what it has come to so far... our Junior Member from Canada, Hary comes closest to the probable answer - so forgive me for my initial reaction to your suggestion - it stemmed from prior experience. Last week, Norbert from Argen gave me a call thanks to Dave Norton calling him for me in order to get us together. It was Norbert's suggestion that I go ahead and try the hot plate. His thinking is that paste opaques have to dry from the inside out and they won't do that in the furnace door - no matter how long they sit there. When they are dried under the furnace and then fired, the opaque liquid - which is not like water and doesn't dry out like water in powder opaques - actually boils under the surface of the paste and then a shell forms leaving microscopic bubbles that weaken the bond. Drying slowly on a hot plate - in theory - drys from the inside out and leaves the paste attached to the alloy during firing.

His second recommendation was to slow cool bridges to avoid time cracks. He said that because so many of us have gotten away from a metal band on the linguals of pontics - that the ceramic encases the metal and the cooling process goes under tension between the surface porcelain and the hot alloy underneath. He suggested the old pyrex bowl over the tray during cooling to control atmosphere and the rate of cool.

It was his contention that CTE is NOT the reason for these cracks - but that cooling and the way copings and bridges are dried has more to do with these types of cracks that show up after a few days on the bench.

Agree or disagree - the jury is still out. So far none of the restorations that were dried on the brand spankin new hot plate i bought at Sears last week, have cracked. I'm keeping my fingers crossed and holding my breath - knowing these things show up and disappear just as quickly and there is never any certainty on what the cause was or what exactly fixed it. For now - Norbert has my vote... but even he says he will call back in a couple weeks to see how things are going.

So its a waiting game - and if we have figured it out - everyone on the forum will benefit from what I've been going through. Glad to be of service... and hoping to be glad to be out of the woods!
 

Similar threads

L
Replies
8
Views
358
Car 54
Car 54
E
Replies
5
Views
762
CatamountRob
CatamountRob
desertfox384
Replies
8
Views
246
Getoothachopper
Getoothachopper
Top Bottom