Adding translucency to veneers made of BL shades!!

[Luci]

Does anyone know how to create translucency on Bleach shade veneers "Emax ingots"?! The BL incisal is too white and i am afraid to use S1 or S2 Or any effects that would end up graying the veneers! And i am also confused if i should do the cut back on the whole surface on only on the incisal area since the ceramic that i will add on have different glazing temperature!

 

[2thm8kr]

Are you using d.Sign chromoscope shades? I ask because of the S1 & S2 incisals.

 

[Luci]

Are you using d.Sign chromoscope shades? I ask because of the S1 & S2 incisals.

I am using Emax powder, Sorry i am used to call insical "S" for all!

 

[RDA]

E.max Ceram Transpa Clear works well for us. Use in small amounts, until you get used to it, because it is truly clear.

 

[Luci]

E.max Ceram Transpa Clear works well for us. Use in small amounts, until you get used to it, because it is truly clear.

Do you just use clear powder on "BL color" Veneers after cut back? I though Clear won't give good effect if it used right away on the veneer?!

 

[user name]

You can use straight clear...if thats what matches the effect you need. You said your confused whether to cut back or fully layer because of different firing temps? The ceram powders use the same glaze cycle as everything else e.max

 

[Luci]

You can use straight clear...if thats what matches the effect you need. You said your confused whether to cut back or fully layer because of different firing temps? The ceram powders use the same glaze cycle as everything else e.max

The effect i want is natural translucency but with bleach colors its not easy to get that I wonder what effects or Ti shades can i use to get that natural look without graying the bleach color? As for the temperature: I glaze Emax veneers n crowns on 790 after rubbering them, but i only need 750 for the Emax porcelain.. Correct me if i am wrong! :smile:2

 

[corona]

er ... have you read the manual ? sorry to sound insensitive but it doesnt sound like you have thoroughly read it . All the beginning instructions will be there : when and how to cut back , how to layer , firing times ...everything . The rest will be up to you ...you need to layer a few dozen before you get familiar on how much to cut back and the final look you want . That or take a course on layering emax . either way the manual will be a good start . good luck . corona

 

[Luci]

er ... have you read the manual ? sorry to sound insensitive but it doesnt sound like you have thoroughly read it . All the beginning instructions will be there : when and how to cut back , how to layer , firing times ...everything . The rest will be up to you ...you need to layer a few dozen before you get familiar on how much to cut back and the final look you want . That or take a course on layering emax . either way the manual will be a good start . good luck . corona

I have been working with Emax ingots for around five years now and i am familiar with the manual i am quit careful and new to the bleaching colors tho and i find the LT BL quit dead..

 

[user name]

The effect i want is natural translucency but with bleach colors its not easy to get that I wonder what effects or Ti shades can i use to get that natural look without graying the bleach color? As for the temperature: I glaze Emax veneers n crowns on 790 after rubbering them, but i only need 750 for the Emax porcelain.. Correct me if i am wrong! :smile:2

You only need three firing programs. I use 770 for a wash if Im going to build cream. 750 for ceram builds, and 725 for glaze. Theres no need to fire anything up to 790. Even if you are just glazing a monolithic full contour, 725 is enough. Extending your open time to 4 minutes is a good safety measure to prevent ever getting a fracture if you have a thick area adjacent to a thin one. That shouldnt ever be a problem if your preps are textbook perfect. (HA!)

 

[Luci]

You only need three firing programs. I use 770 for a wash if Im going to build cream. 750 for ceram builds, and 725 for glaze. Theres no need to fire anything up to 790. Even if you are just glazing a monolithic full contour, 725 is enough. Extending your open time to 4 minutes is a good safety measure to prevent ever getting a fracture if you have a thick area adjacent to a thin one. That shouldnt ever be a problem if your preps are textbook perfect. (HA!)

Thanks! When i started working with monolithic Emax i found it impossible to get a proper glazed surface by using the same temperature mentioned in the programme, and somebody told me to raise it to 790 so i did and it worked! I will give it another try and glaze on 725 again tomorrow. I did the cut back and i added effects 2 and 3 and insical 1 and 2 it still turns out a bit gray ( I will deliver the case tomorrow morning so i don't think i have time for any adjustments now! Next time i am going to use HT for Bleach colors as LT BL is just a waste of time and energy

 

[NicelyMKV]

HT will be too grey. Sounds like you needed to use the bleach incisal if 1 and 2 were too grey?i glaze mono at 770 and layered at 725.

 

[Luci]

HT will be too grey. Sounds like you needed to use the bleach incisal if 1 and 2 were too grey?i glaze mono at 770 and layered at 725.

The Bleach Insical is too white doesn't really give any nice translucency! Did you try it?

 

[RDA]

When you cut the facial back, keep the lingual aspect of the veneer in e.max material, creating mammelons and any other characterizations that you may need. Keeping some of the e.max ingot as a backing to your layering should cut down on the incisal edge from becoming too grey. You should be only dealing with a small amount of the incisal edge. Internal staining is also helpful in achieving highlights and character in your veneers. Using LT ingots are not the best choice for veneers, but you can press them thinner and then layer them for a more aesthetic look.

 

[amadent]

press a few test veneers
and do a quick overlay with the incisals your are comtemplating using
this will give you a better understanding of what works well for the effect you are trying to create-