New invention

Flipperlady

Flipperlady

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Well I was packing dentures just now and needed to find room for one more flask (brass hanau type denture flask). Wasn't enough room for the two flask compress and I was stressing out when I discovered that those babies can fit into a reline jig and then you screw it down then process. Whew....

Michelle
 
CloudPeakDL

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I guess that would work; let me know if you had porosity or major growth.
When I worked in a big lab back in the early 90's we had single spring loaded flask holders - they were great. Don't know where the system came from because I have never seen it for sale or used anywhere else.
 
Flipperlady

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I just divested it. looks alright to me. I have to go polish dentures now.....
and take the books my son forgot this morning to the school.....

Michelle
 
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CShof

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Great idea, I'll keep this one in mind.
 
Brian

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Dangerous bidniss there...

Tsk, tsk Tsk.... Is that in your GMP?
 
Clear Precision Dental

Clear Precision Dental

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Some risk, yes, but way to think on your feet!

I once had to grab 3 C-claps from the garage to do the same thing as you. I never thought to use the reline jig (I flask all my relines, so I am not even sure where it is).

Your flask are too pretty and clean. Mine look like they've been in the war (Civil War, that is). Like Timex, they keep on ticking.

I've never fully understood the spring in the normal denture flask holders. Perhaps, due to the heat, the flask need to have some expansion ability as provided by the spring under the lower table. I always have to remind myself not to overtighten the flask holder, but I am sure I've overtighened it a few times (when I am in a rush) and I've never experienced any negative side effects. Any guru's care to comment?
 
Flipperlady

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Thanks. The flask looked new because it was. Very rarely do I have this situation. I bought a bunch of reline jigs when i opened my lab and hardlly ever use them (heat cure relines). What you don't see is the other denture flasks that are old penny color.


Michelle
 
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nickate

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I guess that would work; let me know if you had porosity or major growth.
When I worked in a big lab back in the early 90's we had single spring loaded flask holders - they were great. Don't know where the system came from because I have never seen it for sale or used anywhere else.


Hahahaha.... Everybody knows denture guys are hoarders....

I have 2 presses (the thing with the long handle that opens the flask holders) and about 30 flask holders (4 springs-- one on each corner).
Many of the flask holders are stamped "Patent applied for".

Maybe this technique didn't fly????
I've been using it for about 20 years and it's easy, quick and works great.
 
kcdt

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The reline jig was a brilliant solution. I don't use mine for relines either. I make nightguards with them.
 
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nickate

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UPDATE....

Here's a pic of one in action.
DSC_0135.JPG
 
kcdt

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Ok, I've figured out how to post pics. i reformatted these to jpeg last night. I'll post them one at a time so the files don't get ridiculous. First pic: start out mounted on an articulator.
NG-1.jpg
 
kcdt

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Then you draw a line around the labial, it should be height of contour on the posteriors and 1-1.5mm on the anteriors.​
NG-2.jpg
 
kcdt

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Then you adapt a sheet of baseplate wax to the line.​
NG-3.jpg
 
kcdt

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using a 50-50 mix of plaster and either stone or die stone, create a shelf or land area that will extend gingivally. Bevel the edge at about 45 degrees to avoid under cutting. this is what you should have when you remove the wax and smooth ( take off the wax when you hit initial set so it's firm but sculptable).​
NG-4.jpg
 
kcdt

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Wax your nightguard on the articulator in the usual fashion.​
NG-5.jpg
 
kcdt

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After you knock it off the mounting, invest it in a reline jig like so(don't forget to vaseline the stone or you'll have a BAD day).​
NG-6.jpg
 
kcdt

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When you open it up you'll have your mould. Tack in your ball or arrowhead clasps and soak the whole thing to purge air. Paint on separator (I like DVA's acrylis and stone separator, but use what works for you). Then I mix some Great Lakes Splint Resin at a ratio of one scoop to 10cc of powder/monomer. Let it hit the consistancy of honey and pour it in the mould. Gently shake the model down in it and wind closed. The trick is to avoid creating or trapping bubbles. Set in a pressure pot at 2 bars in 85-90 degree water for around 20 minutes.
NG-7.jpg
 

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