Milling machines(My take on it)

[Macron Dental Lab]

My Origin 3000 takes about 7.5 hours to mill a full 98.5 puck! Usually fit around 25 to 30 mix of full contour and copings! Lol BAM beat that!

Nice time..... check this 12 units bridge 1h 49min ,that 98.5 puck in my Roland is 4-5 hours. I won't say BAM yet..popcorn

 

[charles007]

Great info and please keep posting.....

 

[ParkwayDental]

Nice time..... check this 12 units bridge 1h 49min ,that 98.5 puck in my Roland is 4-5 hours. I won't say BAM yet..popcorn

Ok lets see here, from my experience a bridge mills quicker then having 12 single units due to it is less material to mill out, so they say on average roughly 20 minutes per unit on the Roland correct? So 20 minutes x lets say 25 units = 8.3 hours. So how do you get 4-5 hours unless I am not understanding correctly???

Also soon to come hopefully on Monday I will be able to use a .3mm bur to do the fine tuning on the anatomy. But with all this said my third machine will be the Roland, I have jumped on the band wagon and fell in love with it, unless something comes around better by the end of the year!

 

[Xdental]

My Origin 3000 takes about 7.5 hours to mill a full 98.5 puck! Usually fit around 25 to 30 mix of full contour and copings! Lol BAM beat that!

Wow I mill a full puck of full contour zirconia on my 3000 and it does not take 7.5 hours takes about 6.5 hours and I fit about 24 units. Here is a picture to prove it. Also FYI I run my mill for full contour at 120% speed with no chips and my copings at 110% no chipping.

 

[Xdental]

Parkway1 I keep having rocking issues with my large bridges any advice for the 3000 machine?

 

[ParkwayDental]

Parkway1 I keep having rocking issues with my large bridges any advice for the 3000 machine?

No I am not having any rocking issues with my large bridges. The biggest thing I have noticed though is you have to be very particular with the way you nest them. Take your time and position it right so the bur can mill the whole intaglio! What I do is position it so yo can see every little bit of the intaglio surface. With this being done I have not had any issues on my end.

 

[charles007]

No I am not having any rocking issues with my large bridges. The biggest thing I have noticed though is you have to be very particular with the way you nest them. Take your time and position it right so the bur can mill the whole intaglio! What I do is position it so yo can see every little bit of the intaglio surface. With this being done I have not had any issues on my end.

Tyler, for the labs that are reading this thread, would you post a screen shot of correct nesing and incorrecting nesting on large bridges..

Or anyone else who has the time.... Just want to learn more about the Dark Side....Cam

Thanks.......... and thanks Tyler for the very nice shading your doing on your Bruxzirs for me... some of the best I've ever seen......... keep up the good work.

Charles

 

[ParkwayDental]

Ok so here, I have high lighted my intaglio in blue which uses my .6mm bur and fine tunes all the intaglio for better fits. The areas that are high lighted in red specs are my undercut area's. Now with some time and patience you can correct this if you take your time and think about things.



This will be my main concern. The two cuspids the way they wrap down on the buccal side I will have undercuts. But If you postion right in the blank and take into consideration that the A axis can go plus or minus. The A axis on my machine is where my puck will be set. So the way I have my bridge set, my machine will go rotate a positive position roughly 30 to 40 degrees and mill the undercut area on the buccal side of the cuspids.



This is a bridge I did back in Feb and had no problems with except I was a dumba#@ and forgot to add in my cage around the bridge to eliminate the warping factor! So with time and effort and the thinking about all the possiblities it can be done correctly! A 4 axis machine can do a lot, but if I had a 5 axis I wouldn't have to worry about these things and just nest the bridge and mill!

So does this make sense to yall?

 

[Xdental]

Ok so here, I have high lighted my intaglio in blue which uses my .6mm bur and fine tunes all the intaglio for better fits. The areas that are high lighted in red specs are my undercut area's. Now with some time and patience you can correct this if you take your time and think about things.



This will be my main concern. The two cuspids the way they wrap down on the buccal side I will have undercuts. But If you postion right in the blank and take into consideration that the A axis can go plus or minus. The A axis on my machine is where my puck will be set. So the way I have my bridge set, my machine will go rotate a positive position roughly 30 to 40 degrees and mill the undercut area on the buccal side of the cuspids.



This is a bridge I did back in Feb and had no problems with except I was a dumba#@ and forgot to add in my cage around the bridge to eliminate the warping factor! So with time and effort and the thinking about all the possiblities it can be done correctly! A 4 axis machine can do a lot, but if I had a 5 axis I wouldn't have to worry about these things and just nest the bridge and mill!

So does this make sense to yall?

Thank you so much I will try this out. Also last question I was going to update to 4.0 but heard bad things about it. How are you liking it

 

[ParkwayDental]

I would hold off on the update for a little but still having to work out some issues with fits, and anatomy but I will keep you posted!

 

[Xdental]

I would hold off on the update for a little but still having to work out some issues with fits, and anatomy but I will keep you posted!

Thank you

 

[NicelyMKV]

Thats what I really like about sum3d, i open all the files I want to mill, create the puck, allow it to angle the work so it can use the thinnest puck possible (thanks to 5 axis),push a button and it does all the nesting and positioning of the sprues etc. I let it go ahead and start milling after the 1st step is calculated and off she goes. I also like being able to create my own tools. Use any bur with a 4mm shaft I guess. As long as it lines up within the windows on each side of the Rolands bur positioning tool(very handy) you can use it. I used a few burs Tyler sent me from his Origin mill.

 

[nic]

I this The Zirkonzahn system your talking about ??
Ya I it good. I'm told the that it can add a lot of item in it from the M5 miller.

As I look at it is very big .

Thank
Nic