What kind of glass?

[JMN]

I'm looking to start playing with C&B again. I have a great glass shop (not that kind) that while staffed by temperamental persons, they have got it on the ball.

If I want to use a glass slab for playing with my stuff, is there a better glass type than another?

All I know is get real glass and not a polycarbonate.

 

[user name]

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CGJ SOLUTION (WAREHOUSE)

magicmineralstones.com

 

[Bzydo23]

I use Crystal quartz also! I bought a microwave dish cover also, keeps the material from drying out and particles getting mixed in

 

[Car 54]

IMO, I don't think it's so much the glass, as it is the brush and using a build up liquid to help give you control and more working time compared to distilled water.

I have a 1/2 inch slab that I used to use before I invested in a wet tray. It's to big and heavy. I think the smaller and thinner one I use now for laying out paste opaques, add on porc etc is from a overhead kitchen stove light, using the smooth side. (or the glass from an old overhead microwave)

A thinner one you can find around home could be brittle, but it's easier to put off to the side or set it on top of something else, compared to a slab that is bigger, thicker and heavier.

Don't buy something that you'd be afraid if you broke it. Ultimately, a smile line tray is fantastic for consist moisture control, but is pricey to buy, and needs replacement membranes every now and then.

 

[CatamountRob]

[QUOTE="Car 54, post:]Ultimately, a smile line tray is fantastic for consist moisture control, but is pricey to buy, and needs replacement membranes every now and then.
[/QUOTE]
Do you use the white membranes or the black? I’ve always used the black ones but I don’t know what the difference is.

 

[Car 54]

I like the black ones too, they have better contrast against the porcelain.

I was curious about the difference and asked a rep. She said that the black ones are a little thinner and usually don't last as long as the thicker white. She said some put a white down first, then a black on top of it to make it last longer (it's not abrading directly against the stone) I tried it, it did seem to help with making it last longer, but then you're paying for 2 membranes $$.

You can tell the difference once you use a white one, as far as it having a bit more thickness to it. If you color tag your porcelains, after awhile it will leave a stain mark on the white ones, compared to no staining on the black.

 

[CatamountRob]

Personally, I don’t use build-up liquid, I don’t even use distilled water, I use the kind of water that comes out of a tap. I’ve tried a lot of build-up liquids, some I didn’t like at all, some were fine, but in the end water works for me just fine.
I don’t use high-end brushes either, I have in the past but they just aren’t that different, at least not for very long. I use Renfert Ceramicus brushes but probably any similar art store brush would work as well. I’ve used big ones and small ones and they all work but #4’s are my preferred size.
I like the Line wet trays with the membrane but if I were only building up a few crowns at a time I wouldn’t use one, I’d just use a piece of glass. The glass I have is etched or sandblasted or something?
I use paste opaques and put them in a Renfert stain tray, it keeps them from drying out for quite awhile.

 

[Car 54]

#4 is my favorite size brush, too. I like the Renfert Genius brush because it has a bigger handle and the lower part where we grip is made of a rubber, it's very easy and ergonomic to hold. If I were using a glass slab, I personally still like to use a build up liquid to keep it in line (a pile) better than spreading out. Maybe an etched surface helps in that regard?

That's a good idea CRob, as far as the stain tray, so I don't have to keep putting paste opaque out on a glass slab

I did find Lee's manual. He also showed us how to practice on making full porcelain teeth. This is the one I made after the seminar. The root is O.D. and body modifiers, and the crown out of std body porc and incisals.

 

[CatamountRob]

I think these are Renaissance crowns that my uncle made, but I’m not sure.

 

[CatamountRob]

 

[CatamountRob]

I guess it would probably be safe to get rid of some of this stuff....

 

[CatamountRob]

 

[CatamountRob]

This was from right after that time period. Culp’s handiwork I think.

 

[Car 54]

View attachment 36056

I like that, the telephone Push prompts

 

[CatamountRob]

I like that, the telephone Push prompts

I got that from the William’s metallurgy guy, he was in VT doing a course on casting and pushing a casting system, I think it was called “The Rousseau Casting System”? It might have been the first “ringless” casting system we used?

 

[Car 54]

This was from right after that time period.

View attachment 36057

And I believe R.I.O. was Lee's creation to replace Doric as the intensive modifiers.
You really do have some nice Williams mementos. Thanks for posting them

 

[Car 54]

I got that from the William’s metallurgy guy, he was in VT doing a course on casting and pushing a casting system, I think it was called “The Rousseau Casting System”?

My goodness, do you have some history with them, or what. Impressive. It does say something about them as a company, that type of loyalty many of us had, have with them.

 

[CatamountRob]

And I believe R.I.O. was Lee's creation to replace Doric as the intensive modifiers.
You really do have some nice Williams mementos. Thanks for posting them

38 years in the biz and you accumulate some stuff.

 

[Car 54]

But there's some good memories with those things...hopefully, as long as we don't talk about Targis Vectris, or Eris/Eris 2?

 

[CatamountRob]

We used Eris/Eris2 and had no problems with them. The others I remember the names but we didn’t use them.