Surface Texture

[paulg100]

Well after a ton of practice i think im finally starting to get somewhere with surface texture that looks like real teeth

Case was 6 upper ants, cant remember if i used zirconia or emax now.

One thing that was killing me for ages was getting fine enough surface fractures, untill i read a recent article by Joshua Polanksy where he mentioned about using a glass scriber.

Well it works real well, as i could never get a bur to get this same fine effect, So thanks Joshua if you ever read this

Those little fractures in the depth of the depressions really make a difference to the natural effect for me.

Any one having the same problem, i urge you to try it.

This case also serves as a good example of why im not a big fan of internal effects with stain, it looks OK but its a far cry from the natural effect you get when doing it with Ceramic, so i guess i need to keep on practicing with that...

 

[TheLabGuy]

Pretty texture...
Where did you get the glass scriber?

 

[paulg100]

Good ole Flea Bay :

TCT Scriber Glass & Tile Cutter Marker Tool Pen Scribe | eBay

 

[rkm rdt]

Well done 'ol chap!...do they still say that in the UK?

You definitely get the tip of the week award for that one!

I love the effects :clap2:

 

[DeVreugd]

Great job Paul!!

Russ

 

[Al.]

This case also serves as a good example of why im not a big fan of internal effects with stain, it looks OK but its a far cry from the natural effect you get when doing it with Ceramic, so i guess i need to keep on practicing with that...

Paul to me the internal stain can look really nice by eye, real "floaty" as you say.
They can be real sutle and not noticable by eye.
BUT they are so reflective in pics, the flash just bounces off them highlighting and exaggerating them.

Thats the problem I have with internal stains vs ceramic. Im pulled between doing them for the eye or the camera.

Regarding blue on the D edges a tiny bit goes a long way, sooooo easy to overdo blue.

 

[dmonwaxa]

Great tip Paul, and nice job you did there. SAWEEET!

 

[timbangley]

Very nice job!

 

[NicelyMKV]

sooooo which ones are the crowns???

 

[Clear Precision Dental]

I've been wanting better techniques for texture (I still wanna' be like Al ) and your texture is nice!

So, how does this work? Are you "scratching" or creating stroke lines on the glass? After polishing, but before glaze application? Teach me, my friend.

 

[Alistar]

Awesome Paul!

I was working on a really old single central, and was trying to put fissures in like that with the Comet scribe bur, but I wasn't getting the results I wanted.

 

[rkm rdt]

I get some neat effects when I mix up my ex3 with my czr

 

[sampson]

nice

 

[paulg100]

thanks guys.

so this is what im using for my ceramic surface treatment:



from left to right thats the order i use the burs.

first main shaping (minimal as most is done in the build) with diagen stone (this is diamond impregnated so leaves a pretty smooth finish, not like cheap stones that will scratch the surface to hell)

Then i smooth the surface with a very fine diamond and water (just off my finger, the water is key to getting a really smooth surface as it stops the ceramic from tearing)
This bur is a used one from our MCXL which fits a regular handpeice but any super fine diamond will do.

Then the flame shape bur to create the vertical groves/lobes.

then a rubber (this one is from NTI) to smooth and soften the surface morphology.

Then the glass scriber, very firm, just run it down the tooth to create the surface cracks. Very easy, i have tried loads of off the shelf burs, and loads of ways of modifying burs as ive seen in books, but the cracks always looked like they were made with a bur. This works and it is quick and easy!

Then this conical spiral bur, which is also from NTI. Run this over the surface very lightly at slow speed in a wavey motion to create the perimykata (excuse spelling). Its REALLY easy to over do this, so only very lightly. As the saying goes, if you can see it its to much.

You can then go over the areas you want with the rubber again just to knock down the perimykata on the high spots.

Then i use a thin wash of runny glaze paste to seal the surface. Use to thick and it will fill all the lovely texture in.

Then the firing, at least with emax ceram..Throw the manual out
Follow the settings in there and kiss all the lovely texture good bye.

i use 730c with climb of 70c amd 0 hold (the hold is the most important). I put the hold on 10 seconds if im doing a little 50/50 add at the same time.
(this is with a calibrated Ivoclar P500). Even the slightest bit to high and you will round off the micro texture. Its far better to under fire a little as its easy to control and bring up the luster etc afterwards.

Finally ive gone back to a quick buff with synthetic pumice on a lathe. I couldnt get that real smooth plasticy look with brushes and diamond paste alone.

Once thats done, you can then use a soft robinson and diamond paste to really polish out any last scratches.

Sounds like alot but its getting pretty second nature to me now, and if i can do it, its not that difficult, im no wizz kid ceramist. Just an average tech and lots of practice.

"Well done 'ol chap!...do they still say that in the UK?"
The dentists probably do yes, us techs are just common street scum

"Paul to me the internal stain can look really nice by eye, real "floaty" as you say.
They can be real sutle and not noticable by eye. "

I think what im gonna spend a little time on next is rather than fire the first bake, then apply any stains, im gonna make the first build then saturate the incisal area with glaze liquid and then dap in the stains and THEN fire.

This should help disperse and feather the effects more so they dont seem so harsh, we will see.

Well i hope theres something there that helps :tea:

 

[Clear Precision Dental]

Thank you Paul!

 

[dmonwaxa]

Paul, thanks for sharing. If I may add to the floaty effect as was mentioned, I've found this can be achieved 3 ways. First like you do in first build and fire technique, but use a really diluted wash. So faint I refer to it as a whisper. This is subjective however since the saturation depends on what you're trying to achieve. Second like as said, in the second build and washed in with stain. Third, premix some trans powders with the required stains. This can be applied in the incisal build with the same consistency as the incisal build or again washed in with a diluted mix.

 

[thewhitelab]

i know what you mean paul you have to be carefull
this case i used a mixture of internal stains and effect powders
'i use glaze paste to mix stains gives a more subtle effect'

 

[paulg100]

"i know what you mean paul you have to be carefull
this case i used a mixture of internal stains and effect powders
'i use glaze paste to mix stains gives a more subtle effect'"

Yep i use glaze paste. I also use glaze paste to mix some of the mamelon powders and effects to change the refraction index so you can see where your placing the effects better.

Nice work btw its always good to see some other UK techs putting out some good stuff, theres not enough of it around in the UK!

Although thats probably good for us

where are you based in the UK?

 

[marvel]

A subtle almost rainbow translucence on the incisal edges, too...nice.

 

[thewhitelab]

thanks guys, I am up in Manchester Paul, if you are ever in this neck of the woods you are more than welcome to pay me a visit at the lab