SLM FIT

[Andrew Priddy]

I use carbides for the metal type only (don't use them on any thing else.) finish, sandblast, steam, degass, light blast, steam, wash opaque, 2 more coats, layer. have not had one single issue
we are using inline

we are doing slm finished/ unfinished
DPM& slm

Euro
Noblebond
NP-Prime

 

[Affinity]

Ok thanks andrew i will try using carbides only on the next. I generally never sandblast the oxide off unless the mfg says to..

 

[Andrew Priddy]

I do a light oxide blast..
you can't get the opaque to separate, even if you want to.

i'll bet its burr contamination or oxide layer.. one or the other

 

[eyeloveteeth]

agreed. something has to be happening because there are tons of ppl who don't have this problem

The only metal i have had difficulty with the most is noble NF - but it's probably the silver slapping me in the face

 

[Affinity]

Well the stone was brand new and Ive used those white stones for almost ten years just fine. I will try and lightly sandblast... and NOT use a stone.

The SLM copings are nice, but still dont take the PIA factor out of doing PFMs..

 

[sndmn2]

I've never had a porcelain bonding issue with Bego. I'm using Inline porc. and paste.

 

[Evan Katz RDT]

What porcelain are you using?
It is also suggested that you don't steam or use compressed air due to potential contamination.
Do you dry your opaque before you put it into the furnace.
I have seem these issues cause problems, especially with Euro SLM

 

[LA Ceramics]

For NP milling sinterable metal is THE answer , hands down,...yeah,..I know, I know,..you ain't gonna buy no dang argon furnace. For SP HN, mill or print wax and cast it old school like you have done 14 billion times. I use SLM files for milling cuz they's smooth baby smooth. That's how I roll beotch!!!