Sinter temps?

[CoolHandLuke]

 

[JMN]

Just like JMN said it should be unplugged, it shouldn't be running unless you really know what you're doing. Assuming your elements are connected in series your setup should look like the sketch bellow:
View attachment 23134
For more elements the idea is the same. You need to measure across the elements as shown, probing on the braided wire. The readings should be within 5%, 10 at most...excessive resistance means bad connection or faulty element. Depending on controller type the resistance measured could be a tiny bit less what really is, but that shouldn't be a concern.

Saaaay, that looks far more understandable than my questionable ascii art

 

[JMN]

Wouldn't it be better to measure from the terminals that the straps are connecting? otherwise it seems Id be checking the straps resistance; should be checking the connection theyre making with the posts..?

Also, I need to run and grab a new multi meter. Analog or digital?

Digital. Analog meters need more care to keep them accurate.
A $10 meter is all you need for this. But if you want more toys on it, there's no limit.

There are 2 connections happening on each leg of the element. Strap to post/terminal, and post/terminal to element. Trought the element. Then element to post/terminal and post/terminal to Strap. Putting the 4 together by going Strap to strap will show if there is any problem with the connection OR elements. You can reduce your area under test to one or two connections if there is a problem after getting the rest of the data from the other element/connection groups.

Troubleshooting 101, test blocks, then see which function block tests different. Then test the offending block by breaking it into smaller and smaller blocks.

Edit: not trying to be condescending, hope it don't seem that way.

 

[zero_zero]

Wouldn't it be better to measure from the terminals that the straps are connecting? otherwise it seems Id be checking the straps resistance; should be checking the connection theyre making with the posts..?

Also, I need to run and grab a new multi meter. Analog or digital?

Strap resistance is negligible (practically zero),you're checking for connection between the strap and element...less prone to error doing that way. Analog meters are considered museum pieces these days...lol...grab a digital

 

[hdlc]

How frustrating. After running a couple cycles at the recommended temp, things just didn't look that great. I ran one last night and bumped the temp up 20 and they looked worse; very opaque and the margin areas were kind of turning white. UGH! I just re-milled a couple and dropped the temp down to the low end of the recommended temps (1530-1540),so this one is the lowest temp Ive tried...1530. We'll see in a few hours. One things for sure...it will either be better or worse.


Ive heard one guy using the same that's all the way down to 1500, so we'll see. Im re-milling a bunch and will have them colored and dried ready for another short cycle, so they can still (theoretically) make it out in the morning.

I had the same problem with mine, I've stuck a voltage meter on mine and noticed that the current varied a lot. My conclusion was that the voltage spiked sometimes on the grid and causes the ceramic to rather overfire causing white edges in thinner parts. My feeling is that you are overfiring your zr and should rather drop the temperature.

 

[user name]

I had the same problem with mine, I've stuck a voltage meter on mine and noticed that the current varied a lot. My conclusion was that the voltage spiked sometimes on the grid and causes the ceramic to rather overfire causing white edges in thinner parts. My feeling is that you are overfiring your zr and should rather drop the temperature.

You are the winner. (maybe..)

Not having any experience with 'problems' related to Zr, I wasn't sure what I was seeing. My last cycle I dropped the temp and they look soo much better. Ill still be experimenting, but at least this last batch is useable. I just started another, so when they come out around midnight Ill be ready to attack. Theyre due at 8:00AM.

Very, very odd to me though was the exterior temp of the furnace. When the units were looking opaque and whitish, the oven felt cool to the touch, so Im still thinking there was a heat issue and they may have been under cooked. On this last batch, short cycle, the oven was very warm on the exterior. Either way, the product is much better and Ill continue to play with it. Ive heard of one tech using the same oven and same Zr and hes down at 1500.

What a weekend.

EDIT...Youre all winners in my book. Thanks for everyones help and advice.

 

[Sda36]

You are the winner. (maybe..)

Not having any experience with 'problems' related to Zr, I wasn't sure what I was seeing. My last cycle I dropped the temp and they look soo much better. Ill still be experimenting, but at least this last batch is useable. I just started another, so when they come out around midnight Ill be ready to attack. Theyre due at 8:00AM.

Very, very odd to me though was the exterior temp of the furnace. When the units were looking opaque and whitish, the oven felt cool to the touch, so Im still thinking there was a heat issue and they may have been under cooked. On this last batch, short cycle, the oven was very warm on the exterior. Either way, the product is much better and Ill continue to play with it. Ive heard of one tech using the same oven and same Zr and hes down at 1500.

What a weekend.

EDIT...Youre all winners in my book. Thanks for everyones help and advice.

Hi, not sure of your set up with dishes but I placed one empty under the main dish I was using to raise the working dish closer to the thermocouple for better temp accuracy and full wrap around heat. Control rings also good to dial in with. If you have a zirc and shading material you know will give you a typically nice result, you can check with that also. Under fired = higher chroma, over fired lower chroma than desired. Hope this helps also, know the feeling and so many hours waiting before results...

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[user name]

Hi, not sure of your set up with dishes but I placed one empty under the main dish I was using to raise the working dish closer to the thermocouple for better temp accuracy and full wrap around heat. Control rings also good to dial in with. If you have a zirc and shading material you know will give you a typically nice result, you can check with that also. Under fired = higher chroma, over fired lower chroma than desired. Hope this helps also, know the feeling and so many hours waiting before results...

Sent from my LG-H812 using Tapatalk

Hi newbie! That's good advice; so, you've done this before. I haven't had time to wait through long cycles, so Ive been running shorter. Ive hit high temps at 1550, 40, 30 20 and am just getting ready to run one at 1510. I haven't heard the higher chroma/under fired thing before, so thanks. My last batch at 1520 was very useable, but I want to drop it and just see. Im stuck using an uncovered speed tray at the moment; clay bowl and lid are on the way so that will maybe screw with things all over again.

Check your private messages.

 

[Sda36]

Hi newbie! That's good advice; so, you've done this before. I haven't had time to wait through long cycles, so Ive been running shorter. Ive hit high temps at 1550, 40, 30 20 and am just getting ready to run one at 1510. I haven't heard the higher chroma/under fired thing before, so thanks. My last batch at 1520 was very useable, but I want to drop it and just see. Im stuck using an uncovered speed tray at the moment; clay bowl and lid are on the way so that will maybe screw with things all over again.

Check your private messages.

Thanks User, all the best, seems you're getting close...finally

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[JMN]

Had to say Greetings Earthling! Welcome!

You jumped right in. Cool!

 

[Sda36]

Had to say Greetings Earthling! Welcome!

You jumped right in. Cool!

Thanks! [emoji4]

Sent from my LG-H812 using Tapatalk

 

[user name]

Ok Guys, I wont hold you liable in any way..

As I said earlier, my oven feels hot on one side, not the other. The oven is symmetrical so there should be even heat loss, I think. I want to remove the top and have access to the elements connections while its running. Using the multi meter, is it possible to check each element to see whats going on?

 

[CoolHandLuke]

while its running? how badly do you want to meet your God ?

 

[user name]

Yup. Running. I want to know if each element is working in concert with all the others. Why would one side of the oven be hot and the other not?

 

[JMN]

Ok Guys, I wont hold you liable in any way..

As I said earlier, my oven feels hot on one side, not the other. The oven is symmetrical so there should be even heat loss, I think. I want to remove the top and have access to the elements connections while its running. Using the multi meter, is it possible to check each element to see whats going on?

If you are at a level of electrical training that you need to be asking how to do it safely, then there is absolutely no safe way whatsoever. I (re)build power supplies and have training to fix the old style tube TV's that can kill for 6Mos after they've been unplugged and I can't think of a safe way to explain how to do it safely.
Not trying to come down on you for asking, cause that's how we all learn. But please don't even try it. Please.
To do it safely you need equipment you don't have and ingrained procedures you haven't done enough to make automatic.

user name, just do an Nancy Reagan and "Say NO!" to this idea.

 

[JMN]

Yup. Running. I want to know if each element is working in concert with all the others. Why would one side of the oven be hot and the other not?

Ventilation path may be going to that side to keep the control circuits relatively cool. Just call and ask %mfgr% if this is normal. It would probably take less time too.

 

[JMN]

Oh, and if the elements are hooked up as Zero_Zero drew them, and they tested all the same when you did the unplugged resistance/ohm test, there is no way they are working at different effort levels.

 

[user name]

Well, I removed the lid, yes, while running. The vent idea seems to be valid. For being a metal lid, its sure close to the naked wires. They should have a label that says don't remove while connected.

 

[KIM]

Well, I removed the lid, yes, while running. The vent idea seems to be valid. For being a metal lid, its sure close to the naked wires. They should have a label that says don't remove while connected.

Testing...Testing....User name, can you hear me? Are you still with us?

 

[zero_zero]

User if you have an infra red thermometer you could check each element while working...