Printing issues

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DentalGoofBall

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So I’m having issues printing, on exocad things are sitting down fine but when I print it leaves my model open.
Is this because I’m not cleaning it properly or is it a printer issue? Anything helps because I have to manually fix it by trimming down the supports so it sits down. Printer we have is formlabs IMG_3671.jpeg
 
CoolHandLuke

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its your articulator

its so old

get a newer exocad, with newer articulation libraries.
 
CoolHandLuke

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this was a very common issue among exo users 4 years ago.

it was fixed when a new exo came out. Galway i think.
 
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DentalGoofBall

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this was a very common issue among exo users 4 years ago.

it was fixed when a new exo came out. Galway i think.
Do you know any Articulator that’s new but looks like the one in the picture?
My boss wants it to look like these support pillars
 
CoolHandLuke

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support pins works fine though you have to add them one by one.

if you want something like this in a single articulator theres a german one Die Modelmacher that works good.
 
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DentalGoofBall

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support pins works fine though you have to add them one by one.

if you want something like this in a single articulator theres a german one Die Modelmacher that works good.
Is the die modelmacher free to get or does it cost something ?
 
CoolHandLuke

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it was free with the download of the Galway version at least. its included by default in subsequent versions.
 
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DentalGoofBall

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it was free with the download of the Galway version at least. its included by default in subsequent versions.
I miss spoke about this picture, the picture was model created on 3shape and printed on formlabs but we are also getting the same issue with these supports also. This model in the picture was made in exocad but we get the same issue sometimes IMG_3672.jpeg
 
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mmbh

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Formlabs is not a precise printer. End of story. Mine is in the dumpyard.
My Formlabs 3B+ is great and prints are very accurate. Its been a workhorse for two straight years. 3-4 full build plates per day. I print a test object every so often and the digital micrometer measurements are right on the money. We just use support pins if needed. If we need to articulate large cases we jut use support pins and articulate later.
 
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mmbh

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Asiga printers can be good for sure, I have experience with them. Just like any piece of equipment there can be lemons. My lab neighbor is about ready to throw his asiga in the trash he's had so many issues, but I don't judge all asiga printers based on his experience. I'd still consider them again in the future but most likely only the pro 4k for build plate reasons. Don't know which formlabs you had and its a bummer it didn't work for you. I currently have Phrozen printers as well and I can tell you from experience its not as accurate as our formlabs 3b+'s. They are fun to play with but they're dimensional accuracy is not good enough for us. Thats why we use accurate testing instrumentation. This stuff is important. It could work on some stuff but for crown /implant stuff thats longer than a quadrant its a no go still. We're still testing other resins to try and dial them in and hopefully we'll get to that point but its still not there yet. They are great for printing gadgets and tools for the lab.
 
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My Formlabs 3B+ is great and prints are very accurate. Its been a workhorse for two straight years. 3-4 full build plates per day. I print a test object every so often and the digital micrometer measurements are right on the money. We just use support pins if needed. If we need to articulate large cases we jut use support pins and articulate later.
We use Formlab 3B as well and we print our models from 3Shape with articulators with 3 pins and never really have an issue.
If now we just articulate manually....!
I had to adjust my material parameters (cement gap etc) to cases on printed models vs stone models, but that's normal.
 
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DentalGoofBall

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We use Formlab 3B as well and we print our models from 3Shape with articulators with 3 pins and never really have an issue.
If now we just articulate manually....!
I had to adjust my material parameters (cement gap etc) to cases on printed models vs stone models, but that's normal.
Question since you have formlabs what process do you use to clean your print models ? And how many days until you change your alcohol?
 
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Question since you have formlabs what process do you use to clean your print models ? And how many days until you change your alcohol?
Hello,
we follow their recommendations.
When we cut them from the plateform we just rinse them quick in the back of alcohol then wash 10 minutes dry and cure.
We don't change the alcohol that often to be honnest, you can tell when it's due as it becomes very greyish so something like every 3months
 
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Question since you have formlabs what process do you use to clean your print models ? And how many days until you change your alcohol?
We don't run Form printers, but we do use several Form Wash units for our two-step wash process, and we're very happy with them. They're a good mid-range wash unit in-between the entry-level "tupperware and a shaker table" / $150 hobbyist wash unit tier, and the thousands-of-dollars high-capacity extra-fancy commercial offerings. They're well-constructed and durable, and they lift prints out of the wash bin to dry once the timer runs down, which is very good for speeding your post-processing along and making sure you don't forget parts in the wash, which'll ruin more sensitive materials like nightguard/denture tooth resins. We've been running two for 16 hours a day for a year and have never had an issue, and we've added two more (two first-stage, two second-stage washes) to accommodate large numbers of parts coming off our big build plates.
RE: alcohol changing, we change it every day- the clean wash becomes the dirty wash, and the dirty wash gets poured into a drum for recycling. We're pretty high-volume, and we recycle our alcohol in-house with a still, so this isn't a problem, but most users won't have to change the alcohol out nearly so often. We also run the Wash half-full of solvent and not at the fill line they recommend, which makes it saturate with resin much faster. Smaller labs could probably get by for at least a week on a single fill before moving it down the line or discarding it, and they supply a hydrometer so you can measure the resin saturation and know when to change it. That said, if the second wash isn't very clean it'll still leave some resin residue on the washed parts, so I often wash parts briefly with brand-new alcohol as a mini "third wash" before drying them to deal with this final residue to get a really clean part.
 
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tuyere

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And re: Form printers, most users I've talked to are pretty happy with their machines, if someone's had a horrible time with them I'd assume that's just a lemon machine, it happens. IIRC Forms use a different process than most dental printers do, and it has some of the same limitations as FDM printing does re: how productivity scales with part volumes and bed height (LCD/DLP printers can generally print a single part and a plate full of parts at the same speed, while SLA takes X time per part, so full build plates on LCD/DLP designs can have significantly higher productivity than SLA). Cheap LCD printers have advanced tremendously in just the last few years, so I think it's a lot harder to justify springing for more sophisticated processes that don't get you nearly as much build plate area for your dollar as you can swing nowadays.
 
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We realized early on that changing out the alcohol more often helped a lot with fits especially in the contact areas. Get your models clean and change your alcohol more often than you really want to..
 

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