Porcelain tears vita vm13

[Al.]

Im loving Inline.

 

[charles007]

Al
What if I send you my vm13.....I bet those crack lines you put in with your inline would not look as good as real crack line/deep tears with vm13 !

WANTA TRADE ? I will pick up the shipping cost and throw in a NEW unopened kit of GC One Powder ?

 

[Al.]

Charles you change and try out new porcelains like Rob does his girlfriends.

 

[charles007]

Al, I think Rob has a Keeper now.......or maybe he just has her locked up as an hostage in his house.

 

[TheLabGuy]

Charles you change and try out new porcelains like Rob does his girlfriends.

Damn, he got us Charles.....

 

[paulg100]

Yeah im using inline as well, i cant recommend it enough. From day 1 i have not had a single issue. Colour stable, low shrinkage, very homogeneous just ace.

The colours also tie in with emax ceram which you would no doubt be using if you are using emax LS2.

The only down side if there is one is its not the cheapest around but then none of ivoclars stuff is. *edit - you get what you pay for with there gear nowadays though.

This was one of my first cases with inline, and if i can do this kinda ceramics with a new kit then i am very happy.


By paulg100 at 2010-07-17

 

[charles007]

Paul, #10 must be vm13... very natural looking, but has a check in it.......haha

Nice work !!

 

[sixonice]

as of July 1st, ivoclar just reduced the price of the entire inline portfolio (the conventional line up as well as the newer inline one powder) about 18%. whoever is using it check your invoices since july 1st. nice little surprise and a big cut on price.

 

[paulg100]

This thread just made me think of something funny that happend a few years back when we were having problems with another ceramic.

We discussed the problems with the companies rep and he spoke to there tech guys.

There solution to the problem was that we needed to use a square brush and not a round one! i kid you not!

The crap some of these reps/companies come out with

A while after we had switched the company completely changed the ceramic, so what does that tell you. This has happend on more than one occasion over the years and they will never admit when there is a problem. They tell you no one else is having issues and then you find out later that loads of people were, after youve sunk loads of time into trying to get the stuff to work, and ending thinking its your fault.

Now days if i ever get these sorts of silly issues with tearing and the like then im stright outta there, i do not wanna faff around with a technique sensitive ceramic, there is no need.

Thanks for the heads up on the pricing, ill look out for that.

I have some of the new inline one to R&D for our production lab so ill post how i get on with that.

 

[mdl dan]

Wow, we've been using vm13 a few years for the 3d shades. Had some tearing and pulls, and was ready to ditch it. Hated seeing them come across my desk. (I have someone that builds, and I contour). Well she broke her foot and is out for a few weeks. Now I'm back to building and contouring, and I love the stuff now. No problems what so ever. Just don't over condense, and after it is built, I go back around the margins and blot them slightly with a extra bead. No pulls. Now I am going to try the vm13 classic shades, i like it so much.

 

[jodie]

vm 13 is a bear...it works best for me if I just don't mess with it...it DOES NOT like opposing model smashing it down..you can't build high with it

 

[ztech]

The porcelain is definitely not made to smash. If you use this technique you will get occlusal tears and pull-aways. The other problems everyone is having is definitely a moisture control and firing entrance problem. I do a brush buildup with minimal blotting. After I add to the contacts, i gently tap and blot until I can touch the porcelain without leaving fingerprints. I use a 6 min preheat at a 450 degree start temp I have a 30 second soak after the muffle closes then a 55 degree rise under vacuum to 892 with a min hold without vacuum. I do not mist unless it is I am building a highly modified build on subsequent units. If I'm building singles I fire two at a time since a single unit takes between 8-12 minutes to build and the fire cycle is around 14 min. On bridges, I pre-stack most interproximals in the margin bakes. After the buildup, I do a separation cut to the sintered porcelain and this eliminates the uncontrolled tearing. The second and subsequent bakes take care of the shrinkage in the interproximals.

 

[Alex R.]

My two words about this porcelain, i found it is close to nature looking but you have to be very accurate in building it. I always do like ztech wrote here in interproximals, also i'm drying it with hair fan- not soft paper, before putting the object into the furnace its usefull to correct dentin in the margin area by the brush. On the second dentin bake I fill fissures with 50/50 correction and EC .
Vita gave a recomendation to make a 45 degree rise at first dentin.
Sorry for my english.

 

[Bastien]

I use VM13 at school with my students

First, this ceramic is not beautiful at all .... but this is not the problem.

I usually use Shofu MP at the lab. And have no problem with one nor the other. So that ceramic stay on your margin, just dry it first with a paper tissue pushing with your finger inside. Then, remove the crown of the die, clean it from small part that could have staid on it, and then, put the armature back on his "die" (is this correct ?). And now, this is THE secret, push the ceramic with your finger to the margin. You'll have no problem then !