pmma/composite stains

[millennium]

What's a more aesthetic kit? I have GC's optiglaze color for a while and they are meh. Good for occlusal staining and that's about it. They are better on composite than pmma. Thanks in advance.

 

[Contraluz]

What's a more aesthetic kit? I have GC's optiglaze color for a while and they are meh. Good for occlusal staining and that's about it. They are better on composite than pmma. Thanks in advance.

Have a look at Anax Dental. Not sure Ivoclar still sells composite to the techs, maybe have look there too.

 

[millennium]

Have a look at Anax Dental. Not sure Ivoclar still sells composite to the techs, maybe have look there too.

I will take a look at their pmma stains. I just bought their pmma disks and they are pretty nice. They make argen's multilayer pmma look like crap especially if agren does the milling.

 

[Contraluz]

I will take a look at their pmma stains. I just bought their pmma disks and they are pretty nice. They make argen's multilayer pmma look like crap especially if agren does the milling.

I have not used Argen for their pmma or pmma milling... I usually use Harvest's pmma, which looks quite good. I do very little staining, tho.

 

[JonnyLathe]

I really like Vita Akzent LC.

 

[millennium]

I have not used Argen for their pmma or pmma milling... I usually use Harvest's pmma, which looks quite good. I do very little staining, tho.

I am a late bloomer to pmma. My first pmma case I outsourced to argen and couldn't use what I got back so I bought some pmma discs from anxdent and some pmma milling burs and the result looked really good except the optiglaze stains (which I have from way back) don't go on evenly just kinda blotchy. I sandblasted the pmma with 50um aluminum oxide and steam cleaned it but did not like the results after staining. It was acceptable but not great.

 

[millennium]

I really like Vita Akzent LC.

I will check them out.
Are these stains thicker than gc's optiglaze? The optiglaze is thin like water.

 

[Car 54]

I am a late bloomer to pmma. My first pmma case I outsourced to argen and couldn't use what I got back so I bought some pmma discs from anxdent and some pmma milling burs and the result looked really good except the optiglaze stains (which I have from way back) don't go on evenly just kinda blotchy. I sandblasted the pmma with 50um aluminum oxide and steam cleaned it but did not like the results after staining. It was acceptable but not great.

I will check them out.
Are these stains thicker than gc's optiglaze? The optiglaze is thin like water.

Agree with you on both posts. The only thing I found that helped was like you, to lightly sandblast the surface to break the surface tension, then I dilute the colors 1:1 with the glaze liquid to thin them out to help with the chroma-intensive blotchy look. It takes an extra light cure, but it helped in my case.

Personally, I don't use the gradients, as I never found ones that I liked, and I also want my layered restorations (even some gradient zi) to look better than how incredible PMMA temps can look.

 

[millennium]

Agree with you on both posts. The only thing I found that helped was like you, to lightly sandblast the surface to break the surface tension, then I dilute the colors 1:1 with the glaze liquid to thin them out to help with the chroma-intensive blotchy look. It takes an extra light cure, but it helped in my case.

Personally, I don't use the gradients, as I never found ones that I liked, and I also want my layered restorations (even some gradient zi) to look better than how incredible PMMA temps can look.

The pmma crowns did look really good after milling. I applied glaze to the restoration without curing it first as a foundation and then the stains. The occlusal stains like orange and brown don't pool but the A,B, C and D chromas do for some reason even though the crown has the same surface tension everywhere.

 

[JonnyLathe]

I will check them out.
Are these stains thicker than gc's optiglaze? The optiglaze is thin like water.

Yeah they're more honey like.

 

[LarryRDC]

I like the Vita Akzent as well from Anaxdent. use it on my printed Saremco Crowntec prototypes.I do a couple layers of tissue setting each with a curing light. Then characterize the teeth and set that. Then glaze it.

 

[millennium]

I like the Vita Akzent as well from Anaxdent. use it on my printed Saremco Crowntec prototypes.I do a couple layers of tissue setting each with a curing light. Then characterize the teeth and set that. Then glaze it.
View attachment 42740
View attachment 42741

Thank you for posting, that looks really nice, nicer than my GC stains.

 

[LarryRDC]

Yeah , I was never happy with the way the GC stains looked either. The Vita Akzent stains give a much better result. The glaze doesn’t turn yellow either with curing either..

 

[Jack_the_dentureman]

I like the Vita Akzent as well from Anaxdent. use it on my printed Saremco Crowntec prototypes.I do a couple layers of tissue setting each with a curing light. Then characterize the teeth and set that. Then glaze it.
View attachment 42740
View attachment 42741

Saremco Crowntec
do you use this material for prototypes? you mean temporary jobs?
is it not an alternative to final work??
please also tell me, on what printer and in what device do you polymerize at the end, how does the color come out?

 

[LarryRDC]

I use it for my immediate load and hybrid provisionals ( instead of milled Pmma for fit and esthetic verification) I call it a prototype because once it’s approved the Final ZI is the same design.

I print on a Nextdent 5100 system ( which the CTEC is a validated material ) and the curing unit that goes with it. The colors are ok (close enough for a provisional ) When the provisional prototype is verified, esthetics approved , and minor adjustments made, I duplicate the adjustments and make the final ZI hybrid. If there are major adjustments needed, I’ll do another printed prototype for another “test drive” In the pics above I was testing out bar options to just to see how it holds up.

 

[Jack_the_dentureman]

I use it for my immediate load and hybrid provisionals ( instead of milled Pmma for fit and esthetic verification) I call it a prototype because once it’s approved the Final ZI is the same design.

I print on a Nextdent 5100 system ( which the CTEC is a validated material ) and the curing unit that goes with it. The colors are ok (close enough for a provisional ) When the provisional prototype is verified, esthetics approved , and minor adjustments made, I duplicate the adjustments and make the final ZI hybrid. If there are major adjustments needed, I’ll do another printed prototype for another “test drive” In the pics above I was testing out bar options to just to see how it holds up.

Nice.
I do exactly the same, but with milled pmma, which I only cover with optiglaze.

now i would like to do it with printed temporary material, all temporary work to relieve the milling for the zirconia.
I was thinking more of something like GC print. I don't understand why you use this more expensive material, described as the one for permanent restorations.

 

[LarryRDC]

Nice.
I do exactly the same, but with milled pmma, which I only cover with optiglaze.

now i would like to do it with printed temporary material, all temporary work to relieve the milling for the zirconia.
I was thinking more of something like GC print. I don't understand why you use this more expensive material, described as the one for permanent restorations.

Thanks! Printing these instead of milling has worked well for me as a one man lab They say it’s permanent for singles and short span bridges. I use it for the hybrid provisionals because it’s stronger than the cheaper C&B provisional resins. I’ve been printing these for 5 years, and early on the cheaper resins didn’t hold up as well for the “test drives”. As far as being more expensive, it’s all taken into account for the fees charged on these.

 

[JonnyLathe]

For temporary prototypes I print with Rodin Sculpture and characterize with Vita Akzent LC. For immediate load I still print with Rodin and characterize with optiglaze because it's faster. Vita definitely looks better though.

 

[Sda36]

I like the Vita Akzent as well from Anaxdent. use it on my printed Saremco Crowntec prototypes.I do a couple layers of tissue setting each with a curing light. Then characterize the teeth and set that. Then glaze it.
View attachment 42740
View attachment 42741

That's Just Awesome Will check them out on this.

 

[Jack_the_dentureman]

Thanks! Printing these instead of milling has worked well for me as a one man lab They say it’s permanent for singles and short span bridges. I use it for the hybrid provisionals because it’s stronger than the cheaper C&B provisional resins. I’ve been printing these for 5 years, and early on the cheaper resins didn’t hold up as well for the “test drives”. As far as being more expensive, it’s all taken into account for the fees charged on these.

Thank you for the clarification.
if so, i will check the 100g samples for vericom mazic d and saremco.
I have already checked the cheaper Tera harz graphy tc-80dp, which is twice as durable as crowntec!!!
But you can't get the right color without their special curing lamp.