Mixing porcelain powder with water? (not modeling liq)

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holyhikaru

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I heard from someone that I can use distilled water instead of modeling liquid to mix with porcelain powder.

Is it okay to mix porcelain powder with distilled water?

Will it affect the properties?

Thank you
 
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paulg100

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yes you can and yes it will effect properties.

Different shrinkage, different colours, no plasticiser to help control the build and will also dry out alot quicker.

Used tap water for years without "issue"

but is sooo much easier doing high end multi powder builds with liquid.

if your a production lab doing 2 powder builds then distilled water or even tap water will probably work fine for you, although you might get more tearing on multi unit cases.

depends on the ceramic your using.

i use a combination of both now. Wet tray with distilled water underneath, and build liquid to mix the ceramic on top. works great.

give it a go and see.
 
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paulg100

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Contaminated tap water :loco:

thats why all your crowns glow green in the dark :D
 
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rkm rdt

rkm rdt

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Canadian Tap Water...we're upstream from the States;)
 
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adamb4321

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Distilled water is fine to use, your build ups will probably shrink less but may be a liitle more fragile as there is no binder to hold the ceramic together, it'll dry out quicker too. Like paulg100 I used to use tap water with no problems but it can depend on your water supply.

I have had problems with some build up liquids that make the ceramic really plastic-y when building up , seemed to cause more tearing and lifting and don't blot well, you can also dilute build up liquids with distilled water to change the properties.
 
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Gita

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we used distilled water... it's harder to built with some porc powder, but i don't know why, easier with noritake ex3...
and about shrink and finished porc properties, not a problem, if u do good condense...
 
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charles007

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Using distilled will eliminate a lot of tearing, pulling, cracks, in porcelain. Another idea is to dilute modeling liquid with distilled water if tearing is a problem... Modeling liquid dryies slower and improves handing of porcelain, which is just the oposite of using distilled water..
 
capickettcdt

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I used liquid to get started and mix the dry ceramic. If it got too dry during the stack I always used distilled to re-wet. After a while too much liquid also equals too much everything else in the liquid.
 
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cemcclemens

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I use a 50/50 mix of FT or distilled with ceramic manufacturers liquid. Just like the handling of it. (FT is Florida tap and I am veerrryyy down stream from the Canadians)
 
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Mid-Florida Dental Lab

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you know i have to change my reply only because there are many other factors in a lab that can effect your work if nothing is wrong then dont fix it
 
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Vitalium

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I use just distilled water, better drying and less shrinkage.
Somebody said that modeling is difficult, but when you get used to ....
 
Tom Moore

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I dry stacked and always used distilled water. My thoughts were if you don't add stuff to the porcelain with the wetting liquid the less chance for color deviation.

The only special liquid I used was home made with distilled water and about 10% fast burnout investment liquid for shoulder powders. It makes the porcelain set much harder and easier to remove when you are doing a bridge with more than one porcelain margin. I had to slow the fire rate to about 75 degrees a minute to make sure to burn out the burnout liquid before vitrification started. If you fire this to fast you will get some graying.
 
disturbed

disturbed

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6+ units liquid helps a little, IMO. Prefer distilled, better drying , less shrinkage. Used liquid, used Distilled, almost no difference for me except slightly on large cases.
I use a wet tray and do my best to insure the crown does not dry out when working on it. Adding small amounts of water to the gingival to re-wet when necc, condense when done to make sure no bubbles get trapped. adding liquid to a dry crown's incisal will often draw bubbles into the resto, so, if you must, SLOWLY add as close to the coping/margin as possible with a wet brush then draw to the surface with a tissue. is my technique anyhoo..

Had some guy tell me once to make sure and use the correct buildup liquid for the porc. system so the CTE's match...the CTE of the buildup liquid...../facepalm...
 
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ps2thtec

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I use a wet tray and do my best to insure the crown does not dry out when working on it. Adding small amounts of water to the gingival to re-wet when necc, condense when done to make sure no bubbles get trapped. adding liquid to a dry crown's incisal will often draw bubbles into the resto, so, if you must, SLOWLY add as close to the coping/margin as possible with a wet brush then draw to the surface with a tissue. is my technique anyhoo..

./facepalm...
A better trick to rewetting your buildup is to give a spraymist of dist water. Take
That little bottle of pink surfactant , (everyone has gotten this product) clean it out and fill with dist water.
It's a great fine mist . :top:


________
"Yet another long series of diversions to avoid responsibility"
 
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LifeLike

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We are also in the distilled water camp, been using it for 27 years ,way before any of that fancy stuff came around, although sometimes liquid does make an apperance.
 
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It depends on the porcelain. I used to just use H2O when I got my powders from the evil empire (you know who),but since using inline, I use about 4 parts 'P', 2 empress and 1-2 H2O. Love it! Everything is so much nicer since adding that couple drops of empress.
 
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samalab

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It depends on the porcelain. I used to just use H2O when I got my powders from the evil empire (you know who),but since using inline, I use about 4 parts 'P', 2 empress and 1-2 H2O. Love it! Everything is so much nicer since adding that couple drops of empress.

Hello. May I ask what do you mean with "drops of Empress"? Do you use the Empress liquid? Many thanks in advance.
 
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Yup. Empress liquid was really good...back when I did metal ceramics:)
 

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