Final model pouring

[kcdt]

lol I wish I could be a good sport about being an idiot Ken I just want to knock the sh!t out of people when I'm called names.

This ain't my first time at the rodeo... if I got all bunched up every time I'd be having to change shorts too often.
Besides, removable technicians are famous for being curmudgeonly and sharp of tongue. If you get a thicker hide you get to laugh at the wit more often.
Why do you think the ceramists are all secretly envious of us?

It's like cactus, sharp on the outside, but really rather sweet and refreshing inside (although to some we all seem pricks). Sometimes we turn into great tequila....
It's all in how you take it, and at this point in my life I try not to take myself too seriously, but then I have insider info...

 

[CYNOSURER]

Ken's a prick! Ken's a prick!

Who'da thunk?

I know you are, but what am I?

 

[Didley]

I use the plaster/ pumice mix instead of alginate because I can pour it when I get back to it.

This is a great idea, if I was to box, I'd give this a try. And all round I like your attitude, Ken, it's pricks like you that I could work with.

 

[Didley]

lol I wish I could be a good sport about being an idiot Ken I just want to knock the sh!t out of people when I'm called names.

Yep, they're every where, we put people like U in cages over here Hydent

 

[hydent]

Yep, they're every where, we put people like U in cages over here Hydent

It's all good didley, we just disagree I guess I should learn to have a thicker skin. At the end of the day were all have one huge thing in common we want to do our best and stand up for what we believe so keep on keepin on and good luck to ya. Do you meen an octagon cage to fight in

 

[kcdt]

Yep, they're every where, we put people like U in cages over here Hydent

do I get he occasional dog biscuit? You never know when that might be a better offer than the one I have now...

 

[thetoothfarie]

Boy's, boy's, boy's, just take out your ruler and see who is the biggest...


Tim, I am with you. Mix the stone proper, put imp. to set somewhere the trimmer and vibrator isn't, and get on to the next job. The only time I used die stone was for partial frames, and those I sometimes had to box.

 

[sensei]

I'll share my technique. I have some thin plastic cutting board sheets from Walmart cut into ~3x8 strips. They look a lot like the magnet strips in this thread.

Place the impression into a pile of playdough, smooth the land areas in the dough. Place your cutting board strip around the dough and secure with a rubber band or masking tape. Pour.

Takes 1-2 minutes to box and makes great models. I started doing it this way in school to save time. The crusty old prostho guys would insist on boxing in plaster/pumice, cutting back and then bead and box with wax. ughhh....

Their way - 30 minutes. My way - 2 minutes. They couldn't tell the difference.

BTW, use yellow and white playdough. Purple, red and green stain the land areas.

 

[rkm rdt]

2 1/2 " masking tape is all I use to box an impression....3 seconds if I take my time.

 

[Didley]

Sensei, your a genius with regards the play dough. Giant step forward!

 

[kcdt]

Sensei, the wax bead with plaster/pumice was so pointless. Magnetic strips are the cats meow. The playdough does have that spark of genius, I'll admit.

 

[CYNOSURER]

Like I said I have nothing against boxing. I just don't normally do it. But if a doc asks/expects/wants me to then I do.

Playdough is a bit stiff and can dry out over time. I've been thinking about using silly putty but just never went out and bought a whole mess of the stuff to try. Instead I use Trixa (Dentsply Lab putty) this 'box' is the Bego silicone duplicating 'flask':



Note: Don't use any catalyst. Just the putty and reuse it.

I added an ID after JohnW asked (on the IDF) about using P-touch labeler to put names on model:



I just laid the label on the putty and poured up. Between the glue and the stone capturing the sides of the label it looks good and is slick. Don't think I can peel it off. Will have to use a knife and dig it out. I'll need to play with the concept. I think I know how I would do it so that the name could be on the side of the model. Oh boy! more play...er R&D...time.

 

[JohnWilson]

We have been playing with the Brother P Touch and its difficult to find a time to put the labels on with success. Of course they look amazing when I put them on right after QC but it defeats the purpose for us. It seems that the flow stone we use for bases stay wet for too long and putting the labels on too soon make them fall off. I do not want to have to use any cyno on them if possible. I see that P touch makes a stronger adhesive tape that I may try.

I always like to see your thoughts Tim, it seems your brain works overtime like a few people I know.

 

[CloudPeakDL]

Another quick way to box and pour with the alginate is to buy those ziplock bowls I have two sizes depending on how big the mouth is. I put clay on the bottom of the tray to level the impression and pour alginate around it. Trim alginate if needed and pour stone. The stone does not stick to the bowl, I slap the bottom and the whole thing falls out. If I have a metal tray I need to box and pour- don't ask I have a bowl with a slit cut in it the handle sticks out.
I was force fed box and pouring and absolutly no two part pours by a pros doc. I do both now depending on what my requirement is - but all finials get boxed and poured.

 

[kcdt]

Another quick way to box and pour with the alginate is to buy those ziplock bowls I have two sizes depending on how big the mouth is. I put clay on the bottom of the tray to level the impression and pour alginate around it. Trim alginate if needed and pour stone. The stone does not stick to the bowl, I slap the bottom and the whole thing falls out. If I have a metal tray I need to box and pour- don't ask I have a bowl with a slit cut in it the handle sticks out.
I was force fed box and pouring and absolutly no two part pours by a pros doc. I do both now depending on what my requirement is - but all finials get boxed and poured.

I've used your tip and it does work very well. My favorite was when a dr took a wash in a bite record base. It allowed me to box the impression without damaging the rim. Good stuff.
The other ideal I got from that was to take the small round 240ml size. I cut out the bottom of the bowl, sticky wax the model on the inside of the lid and, voila! I now have a cheap duplicating flask.

 

[CYNOSURER]

Okay, it's been a while, but I've been playing with a few things and I'm ready to announce my findings... so to speak.

And the winner is:

BUBBER aka: Moon Sand



It's a product of sweden (Delta of Sweden) distributed by Delta of North America.

You can get a 5 lb bag of the white for about $16.00 from Amazon. I've been using a 5 oz bucket of blue ($10) for the last 3 months and it hasn't lost much of it's original volume. Really cool stuff and easy to work with. Fluffy yet very firm and supportive can be molded with a brush. Truly an amazing product.

Not one of the best websites in the world but... :

http://www.deltaofnorthamerica.com/


google Bubber and you'll find outlets, colors, and such.

 

[CYNOSURER]

I made this short video to give ya'll a feel for what this material is like.

Here's a link:
Picasa Web Albums - Tim Lane, CDT

and lets see if I can embed it:

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dN32NxT_ME4/TSNPJbemYcI/AAAAAAAAVvs/CxAN6YPJ6gY/s800/buuber the movie.jpg

 

[TomZ]

Couple of comments..

Looks useful but..

impressions is a technique for establishing a land area and border roll around border molded impressions. Whats the purpose/benefit for boxing an impression in a stock tray?

What kind of infection control protocols have you implemented to allow you to reuse that material over and over again?

 

[CYNOSURER]

impressions is a technique for establishing a land area and border roll around border molded impressions. Whats the purpose/benefit for boxing an impression in a stock tray?

Demonstration only. I just threw that video together to give a less static view of what the material looks like. Someone earlier mentioned Tupperware bowls so I used one. I've used bigger ones for hand impressions and found how well it works when you cut out the bottom and use the lid as your bottom. Makes removal (for hand molds) so much easier and the taper makes the impression stay put as they pull out their hands. Don't know if it's a dental benefit or not. Just threw it in as well. This is the first time I've used Tupperware for dental impressions. I grabbed an old impression I had in a case pan waiting for the try in return, because it had a handle.

What kind of infection control protocols have you implemented to allow you to reuse that material over and over again?

I give up, what kind?

 

[paulg100]

not sure if its already been mentioned as havnt got time to read all the posts at the min, but if you wanna go the extra mile stick the poured imp in a preassure vessel at say 1bar (not to much as you dont wanna distort the imp!)

Not only do you not have to worry about gravity but the extra preassure forces the plaster right into every nook and cranny.

This is how i do my c&b models now after i was noticing little corners of teeth not reproducing consistantly. Cant beat it for accuracy.