D. Sign Porcelain

[TheLabGuy]

I've been working with D. Sign pretty intensive lately and happened to work with one of Ivoclar's technicians yesterday. We found some tricks I wanna share with you all. I still consider D. Sign one of the most prettiest porcelains out there. With that in mind, fire temps are very important, don't underfire this porcelain. The liquid ivoclar provides is junk. Use Jim Emmons "new brite build liquid" for D. Sign porcelain, less tearing, less shrinkage, easier to handle. For add-ons, use the E.Max Add-On, use the A-O incisal and the A-O dentin, just remember the E.Max fires about 120 degrees Fahrenheit lower. This will help because D.Sign's correction blows. Also, the most important realization that I've come to is that you MUST have proper metal support. Ivoclar has a metal support catalog for D.Sign and I suggest reading it, very important. If you have greater areas of porcelain, the bulky areas will always pull toward those areas during firing. Also, the best trinket of wisdom I can pass along is something I received from the salesman is the Vita-3d conversion chart........and let me tell you, it's awesome, I nailed a 4m1, 5m1, and 3m1 on the first try, no staining, the conversions are right on the money. If you need this, just pm me, i'll send it to ya. Keep the entry temp low (600 F),but you can dry it to much which will cause tearing as well. It's finicky, but overall, a beautiful porcelain. Unless your metal work is perfect, guaranteed your going to have 2 bakes (build ups). I build the whole thing up, including incisal, then bake it, then fill in any voids, or pulls at the margin, comes out great. Some guys just prefer to do the dentin build up, then bake, then add the incisal and bake for the 2nd time, that works just as good. Hope this helps.

 

[johngimpelcdt]

3D chart?

Hey Rob,

I tried to PM you but for some reason I don't have that option, so I'll post it here. I'll take a copy of your d.Sign 3D conversion chart. Either email to [email protected] or fax 906-635-3043.

Thanks.

 

[Al.]

OH PLEASE post a conversion chart for 3d!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I know a guy that uses ivolars sureten bake liquid and he swears he gets no tears with design. He says like you that the other liquid they provide with the porc is junk and causes tears.
I bought some of the shades and it is very beautiful and masks the frame work very nicely. I found it looks the best if I carry the incisal lower or give a slight incisal overlay on top of the dentin.
I quit using it because I would make a beautiful build up, fully contoured with complete anatomy built in and it would tear apart often taking 3 bakes (for singles) and sometimes touchups during the glaze bake.
Ive been very satisfied with inline.

 

[TheLabGuy]

Here you all go, enjoy, if you can't understand it, let me know. When using the pink (G) use about a 1/3 of a spatula, that equals about a dash. I did use too much pink on a case before I caught on to what a dash was, but every 3d shade was right on. Let me know how it works for you.

d.Sign/InLine to Vita 3D
3D Shade Formula
1-M-1 B1 + Wh. + Slight G3
1-M-2 2/3A1 / 1/3B2 + Wh.
2-L-1.5 2/3B1 / 1/3C1 + G3
2-L-2.5 2/3B2 / 1/3B3
2-M-1 1/2C1 / 1/2B1 + G3
2-M-2 3/4A2 / 1/4B1 + G3
2-M-3 1/2B2 / 1/2B3
2-R-1.5 3/4A1 / 1/4A2 + Wh. + G3
2-R-2.5 A2 + Or. + Wh.
3-L-1.5 1/2C2 / 1/2D3 + G3
3-L-2.5 1/2A3.5 / 1/2 B3
3-M-1 C1 + G3
3-M-2 2/3A3 /1/3C2 + G3
3-M-3 1/2A3 / 1/2B4 + G3
3-R-1.5 1/2C1 / 1/2 A3 + G3
3-R-2.5 B3 + G3
4-L-1.5 1/4 A4 / 3/4C3 + G3
4-L-2.5 A4 + Or. + G3
4-M-1 3/4C2 / 1/4C3 + G5
4-M-2 1/2A3.5 / 1/2 A4 + G5
4-M-3 2/3A4 / 1/3B4 + Or. + Br.
4-R-1.5 D3 + Br. + G3
4-R-2.5 A4 + Br. + G3
5-M-1 1/3C3 / 2/3C4 + G3
5-M-2 A4 + Br. + G3
5-M-3 A4 + Or. + Br.

Notes: “+”-Is a “Dash” Of Material
Wh. –White (Brilliant White Dentin)
Or. –Orange (Orange Occlusal Dentin)
Br.- Brown (Brown Occlusal Dentin)
G3-Gingival 3 (Pink)
G5- Gingival 5 (Lavender)

 

[Al.]

Thanks Rob!
I printed that out, now I need to make a tiny scoop to measure a dash.
I guess a dash is about the same as a pinch.
Im assuming you use the opaque of the dominate shade on the list.

 

[TheLabGuy]

Im assuming you use the opaque of the dominate shade on the list.

Yep i do, nailed a 3M1 and a 3R1.5 today....man it's so nice not to have to stain.

 

[warddentallab]

Conversion chart?

Hi I am new to this website. So far I like it. I noticed that there was a discussion about a conversion chart for Ivoclar and the 3D system. I was just wondering how I could obtain it. Thanks.

 

[warddentallab]

Thanks for posting that conversion chart for ivoclar and 3D. I was just wondering what white, orange and brown porcelains you were referring to? Thanks.

 

[sixonice]

I've been working with D. Sign pretty intensive lately and happened to work with one of Ivoclar's technicians yesterday. We found some tricks I wanna share with you all. I still consider D. Sign one of the most prettiest porcelains out there.

I have another trick to share with the d.SIGN users. This little trick will pretty much eliminate any pulls at the margin. Heres the low-down: do your first opaque as usual. Next, do your second opaque. When the 2nd opaque is applied and STILL WET sprinkle d.SIGN margin powder (I use shade A1 for everything! The layer is so thin the shade really doesn't play a role) to the wet opaque. I use a dry #2 or #4 round brush, just dip the tip in the Margin porcelain and (like your tapping the ashes of a cigar) sprinkle the powder on the opaque. They tap the coping or bridge to remove the excess. You can re-use the stuff that falls off. Then fire the unit(s) on the regular 2nd opaque firing schedule. When the unit comes down it will have a nice super-fine grit "sanpapery" tecture & appearance. This surface is superb surface for the next dentin layer to grab hold of. It provides mechanical retention, plus the crown looks a little nicer because you get the light bouncing around a bit more (refraction). If your experiencing any pulls as described, try this technique.....it will work great & only takes an extra 30 seconds to do best of all.

 

[TheLabGuy]

Thanks for posting that conversion chart for ivoclar and 3D. I was just wondering what white, orange and brown porcelains you were referring to? Thanks.

The White=Brilliant White Dentin, Orange=Orange Occlusal Dentin, Brown=Brown Occlusal Dentin.

All those can be found in the ivoclar catalog, or contacting your ivoclar salesman/saleswoman, or calling ivoclar.

 

[TheLabGuy]

I've been working with D. Sign pretty intensive lately and happened to work with one of Ivoclar's technicians yesterday. We found some tricks I wanna share with you all. I still consider D. Sign one of the most prettiest porcelains out there.

I have another trick to share with the d.SIGN users. This little trick will pretty much eliminate any pulls at the margin. Heres the low-down: do your first opaque as usual. Next, do your second opaque. When the 2nd opaque is applied and STILL WET sprinkle d.SIGN margin powder (I use shade A1 for everything! The layer is so thin the shade really doesn't play a role) to the wet opaque. I use a dry #2 or #4 round brush, just dip the tip in the Margin porcelain and (like your tapping the ashes of a cigar) sprinkle the powder on the opaque. They tap the coping or bridge to remove the excess. You can re-use the stuff that falls off. Then fire the unit(s) on the regular 2nd opaque firing schedule. When the unit comes down it will have a nice super-fine grit "sanpapery" tecture & appearance. This surface is superb surface for the next dentin layer to grab hold of. It provides mechanical retention, plus the crown looks a little nicer because you get the light bouncing around a bit more (refraction). If your experiencing any pulls as described, try this technique.....it will work great & only takes an extra 30 seconds to do best of all.

Yes, I forgot to put this on my first post, we tried this on some bridges, and only put the margin powder in the interproximal spaces, no tearing on our bridge. I read that the first time you posted that sixonice and thought, DAMN, why didn't I think of that, that's a real neat trick.

 

[warddentallab]

Thanks, thelabguy, you are the bomb.

 

[artemis25]

Hi

Is there any conversion chart for IPS inline (chromascop shade guide) in to vita 3d master SHADE GUIDE ?

Thanks

 

[TheLabGuy]

Hi

Is there any conversion chart for IPS inline (chromascop shade guide) in to vita 3d master SHADE GUIDE ?

Thanks

Not that I know of. However, the conversion chart that i provided is for d.sign and ips inline from 3d master to vita lumin.

 

[NicelyMKV]

Hey guys. Try doing a wash bake before your 1st bake. Make sure to get material around the margin. This helps with pulls around the margin and occlusion which plague Dsign. I just use regular dentine but you can use deep dentine modifiers etc just in a thin wash. I also brush all completed builds down towards the margin but I use a slightly moist brush. I use Dsign light build up liquid. It dosent hold moisture as long as the medium etc.

 

[Clear Precision Dental]

Thanks for the Vita 3-D to dSIGN conversion table. I can't wait to try this out! Much better than staring at the tab and hoping for osmosis!

 

[zena]

A guy TRAVIS on here has a great conversion chart check him out.

 

[CatamountRob]

"New Brite Build Liquid ?

Where do you get Jim Emmons "new brite build liquid"? I tried searching for it on the web but came up with nothing. Thanks Rob

 

[TheLabGuy]

Where do you get Jim Emmons "new brite build liquid"? I tried searching for it on the web but came up with nothing. Thanks Rob

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[CatamountRob]

Thank You TheLabGuy I'll check it out.