Any tips on separating dies for veneers

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AL1

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I get veneer cases with basically no space to separate for removable dies, any tips on separating tight contacts or do you?
 
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I usually score between preps with a sharp bp and then saw up from the bottom and from the lingual and then snap the dies and they'll break right where I scored them.
 
TheLabGuy

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I usually score between preps with a sharp bp and then saw up from the bottom and from the lingual and then snap the dies and they'll break right where I scored them.

Yep, that's what I do too. Use a 25 blade under the scope and score it, but I use a double-sided diamond disc and my handpiece instead of a 'saw'. Sawing takes foooorrrrreeeeevvvveeeerrrrrrr IMO. :)
 
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Normally that would work but the case I got in has overlapping centrals with a real thin area on the distal which broke when I tried to separate.
I guess I will have to pick up that margin on a supplemental.
 
dmonwaxa

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Repour and seperate using a rotational path instead of straight up. Look at the previous model and observe the curvature of the linguals, Im almost positive thats the problem. Another thing you can do is to trim the impression at the cervical to relieve any undercut which will relieve the resistance when seperating. Make sure you are not seperating too early. Let set at least 2 hrs before seperating.
 
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I agree with all the above. In addition, my first pour is always my master, and then do a second and a third pour. These two are sectioned but pick priority teeth on one and cut to preserve their margins, then do the same on the other model to preserve the other dies. Always go back to the first model for verification. If theres any sign of torn bits of impression material at any point, scrap all but the first pour. Dont section it, waxup and separate patterns with a razor. I rubber wheeled a razor blade super thin and mounted it in an old brush handle with some zapit. Its short so its not floppy, but super thin.
 
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Sorry, I meant the die broke while trying to cut between dies, it separated from the impression just fine.
 
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I like the polished razor blade idea. Solid model waxing may be what I wind up doing.
 

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