Printed dentures, monolithic vs bonding

JonnyLathe

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Hey guys, I'm going to to be starting printing our temporary removable stuff. Immediate dentures (at our clinic we get them into finals after healing which will be made analog with ivobase and Phonares II teeth),flippers, etc. I'm just trying to decide what the best way to go is. I figure monolithic will be stronger with painting the gingiva, but might not look as good. What are your thoughts on this? And for those of you that go monolithic and paint the gingiva, what would you recommend paint wise for a temporary appliance? Thanks.
 
bigj1972

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Hey guys, I'm going to to be starting printing our temporary removable stuff. Immediate dentures (at our clinic we get them into finals after healing which will be made analog with ivobase and Phonares II teeth),flippers, etc. I'm just trying to decide what the best way to go is. I figure monolithic will be stronger with painting the gingiva, but might not look as good. What are your thoughts on this? And for those of you that go monolithic and paint the gingiva, what would you recommend paint wise for a temporary appliance? Thanks.
First you must be sure they understand this is a temporary appliance and they don't try to kick it on down the line to waste more money with relines and such. Figure out your scheme for when they drop it in the sink and break a tooth or flange. Whenever that denture is adjusted in those areas it will have to be repainted.

In the beginning a lot of guys used GC Gradia gum shades, but there's probably something cheaper nowadays.
 
Doris A

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When you get to making the final dentures, you might want to add more than just Phonares II. As much as I like them, and I use them a lot, they only have 6 moulds. They make the same six in small, medium, and large.
 
bigj1972

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When you get to making the final dentures, you might want to add more than just Phonares II. As much as I like them, and I use them a lot, they only have 6 moulds. They make the same six in small, medium, and large.
Of course that's been my bitch about the industry from day 1. Toooo many options
Too many for people that aren't visionaries.

Multiple tooth lines, Way too many shades...always adding more. Then the bleach shade craze.
So you got offices using wrong shade guide to pick from, manufacturers A-1 in one line is just a little off from their other line, and patient has 6 shades of white to pick from.

For removable, life would be simpler if there were 6 shades and 6 sizes...you get what you get. And apparently after decades of BS, the digital denture pushers say that's all we need now.

rant over
Motz
 
JKraver

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Phonares 2 are fickle, you need enough space and cannot grind more than 30-40% of the intaglio before they loose bond strength. A persons first time in a denture learning how it moves and functions I would not recommend phonares 2 as they are prone to chipping. They are very pretty teeth especially in the mouth, but my go to is the blueline good ol' DCL good enough looking and tough.
 
JKraver

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Of course that's been my bitch about the industry from day 1. Toooo many options
Too many for people that aren't visionaries.

Multiple tooth lines, Way too many shades...always adding more. Then the bleach shade craze.
So you got offices using wrong shade guide to pick from, manufacturers A-1 in one line is just a little off from their other line, and patient has 6 shades of white to pick from.

For removable, life would be simpler if there were 6 shades and 6 sizes...you get what you get. And apparently after decades of BS, the digital denture pushers say that's all we need now.

rant over
Motz
I have to train all the assistants that they need to use the correct shade guide for material. Its mind blowing.
 
JonnyLathe

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I got the Phonares II shade tab to make sure the shades are accurate. I kind of like the simple range of moulds and find that patients appreciate the look. They look awesome in the mouth. If I need to go specifically with mould that Phonares aren't appropriate for, or they need different occlusal depth I usually go with vivodent DCL or blue line.
 
JonnyLathe

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First you must be sure they understand this is a temporary appliance and they don't try to kick it on down the line to waste more money with relines and such. Figure out your scheme for when they drop it in the sink and break a tooth or flange. Whenever that denture is adjusted in those areas it will have to be repainted.

In the beginning a lot of guys used GC Gradia gum shades, but there's probably something cheaper nowadays.
We treatment plan to get them into final dentures after 6 months or so, I always try to keep patients expectations extremely realistic throughout appointments from impression to surgery day. Yes, very temporary prosthetic, yes, the lower immediate is going to be really challenging, etc etc.

That being said some denture patients don't take the information to heart no matter how hard you hammer it in and you get some cranky ones.
 
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JonnyLathe

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First you must be sure they understand this is a temporary appliance and they don't try to kick it on down the line to waste more money with relines and such. Figure out your scheme for when they drop it in the sink and break a tooth or flange. Whenever that denture is adjusted in those areas it will have to be repainted.

In the beginning a lot of guys used GC Gradia gum shades, but there's probably something cheaper nowadays.
How do you go about repairing these things? Say a small fracture. I assume cold cure acrylic doesn't bond to it.
 
bigj1972

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How do you go about repairing these things? Say a small fracture. I assume cold cure acrylic doesn't bond to it.
It's debatable whether the same resin or super glue works best.Dontknow

The protocol is the same resin.

The real answer is you print another one.

It all depends on their definition of repair.
 
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JonnyLathe

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It debatable whether the same resin or super glue works best.Dontknow

The protocol is the same resin.

The real answer is you print another one.

It all depends on their definition of repair.
Hah, I kind of figured.

So with a resin repair do you just grind it out a bit, put some new resin in, lightcure wand, IPA wash and pop it in the curing box?
 
bigj1972

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Hah, I kind of figured.

So with a resin repair do you just grind it out a bit, put some new resin in, lightcure wand, IPA wash and pop it in the curing box?
Don"t grind too much....it isn't a cross linked bond. What your doing is like filling a crack in a windshield. A line will stay visible because of a prism effect. You jjust have to scratch the surface to clean so it''ll stick.
 
JonnyLathe

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Don"t grind too much....it isn't a cross linked bond. What your doing is like filling a crack in a windshield. A line will stay visible because of a prism effect. You jjust have to scratch the surface to clean so it''ll stick.
Thank you.
 
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