New Sinter Oven Recommendations

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charles007

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Jensen is pretty upfront about the life span of the Dekema Basic Elements. We have the basic and ours are still rocking after almost four years. We bought spares 3 years ago......... I think there are 3 factors that are important. 1- All of our programs are slow up and slow down. 2- Pre-dry before firing the units. 3-LUCK!!. We have replaced a main control board right away under warranty, a thermocouple, and the flash memory recently. I really like this furnace, easy and accurate.

That's what I was told about their Dekema ovens Jensen sells.. Not sure if CAP sells this same model or not. Believe its called the Dekema Basic and very accurate :)
 
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That's what I was told about their Dekema ovens Jensen sells.. Not sure if CAP sell this same model or not. Believe its called the Basic and very accurate :)
If I remember right they said about 300 cycles is to be expected. I would guess we are in the 6-700 range on the originals.
 
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Now Im just edgy from getting a day behind from a burned element, but Im getting ready to run a cycle and try to catch up...and Im concerned...

The power button on the controller is illuminated a orange color. Im positive its usually a dull green. it must mean something. If anyones up and seeing this and can clue me in before I push start...please let me know whats going on.

I just flipped through the manual and cant find anything attributed to it. Im not drunk. Havent bumped my head.

I just held the button down, it powered off and illuminated red. Waited a minute and pushed it again and now its green. Why would it have gone orange?
 
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charles007

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Didn't you know orange is the new green...........:)
Maybe orange is a hint you need a backup oven..
 
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Didn't you know orange is the new green...........:)
Maybe orange is a hint you need a backup oven..
Yup. I need a back up. Im a little punchy right now, and my default position is 'panic'. I looked in the manual and didn't see any reference about different colors on the start switch. I ran a cycle last night and it went well, so maybe just a glitch...or a hint something else is getting ready to fail.

I think Im going to place an order for a new oven this week.

My current order of consideration:

MIHM VOGT - HT SPEED

MIHM VOGT - HT-S SPEED

ZUBLER – S400

If anyone has the Mihm HT-S Speed and can comment, Im curious about ease of programming.
 
Car 54

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...has anyone used the Talladium Mastermill sintering oven? Is it any good?
Supposedly it's what they use in their milling center.

From what I've read, it sounds kinda like a lower priced entry level oven? 5 programmed cycles, and only 15 programmable, or is 15 enough?

http://store.talladium.com/index.php/cad-cam/machines/mastermill-furnace.html

It looks like the MIHM VOGT HT-S and Speed has 9 programmable options, so I guess most of the zirconias fall into a sintering firing range and wouldn't need 15?

Edit: older thread, but this answer may have helped me: http://dentallabnetwork.com/forums/...re-htc-or-nabertherm.16354/page-2#post-128753
 
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I think Ive decided...

Its going to be the bigger Mihm.

Im at this point planning to call Zubler to order, but saving $$ is good too. Are there any particular vendors that you know of that are worth a check?

But...if you read this Chris :oops: and cover shipping, Ill just skip the others and call you.
 
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charles007

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Bob, forgot you have 2 mills ! :rolleyes:
I think you made a wise decision with the larger Mihm, its almost large enough to center up demo's
following Crooked Hillary to the polls. Laugh
 
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Getoothachopper

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Now Im just edgy from getting a day behind from a burned element, but Im getting ready to run a cycle and try to catch up...and Im concerned...

The power button on the controller is illuminated a orange color. Im positive its usually a dull green. it must mean something. If anyones up and seeing this and can clue me in before I push start...please let me know whats going on.

I just flipped through the manual and cant find anything attributed to it. Im not drunk. Havent bumped my head.

I just held the button down, it powered off and illuminated red. Waited a minute and pushed it again and now its green. Why would it have gone orange?

"can you see the Butterfly in the picture ?" I'm sure your red/green visibility issues are fine :rolleyes:

qapbQdc.png
 
Sevan P

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Its about $900 bucks to replace the pair in the Dekema. Ive been told that in a Mihm-Vogt you can replace a single element when needed, no need to replace the full set?
Our nabatherm has similar elements running $1200 until I found these guys. Call them an see what they can do. A lot cheaper than you think.

Dan Niles
I Squared R Element Co., Inc.
12600 Clarence Center Road
Akron, NY 14001
716-542-5511
[email protected]

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
BobCDT

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Hi All,
Over the last year, I have done a lot of research on zirconia, sintering and sintering furnaces. I felt the need to share the knowledge so I published an e-book a few weeks ago. It's No Sales based good info for anyone that is using a sintering furnace. You can download it for free here.
http://cap-us.com/ebook-library/
 
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The closer can you get to the source the cheaper it becomes...bonus, if you get a chance to chat with one of their tech experts ;)...
 
Getoothachopper

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I had also been suggested to look into

http://www.kanthal.com/en/products/...ments/molybdenum-disilicide-heating-elements/

You guys are very resourceful.

I used these guys a few months ago to get a couple of sets of elements for my AG sintering furnace . You are buying directly from the manufacturer and I had to wait for them to be made,they came from Scotland and took six or seven weeks before I had them (if I remember the price was around 30% of what I had been quoted) Again thanks to 'Affinity' here on the boards who gave me the info :D
 
KTR

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Just bought our 2nd Mihm-vogt. They just work! The first one is 2 years old and never had a problem.
 
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Just bought our 2nd Mihm-vogt. They just work! The first one is 2 years old and never had a problem.
Which one do you have?

Is programming simple?

What is the calibration routine?
 
KTR

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Our Mihm-vogts are the small ones. We have never had to calibrate. We are mid size lab and need to center both HT and Anterier T every day.
 
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Our Mihm-vogts are the small ones. We have never had to calibrate. We are mid size lab and need to center both HT and Anterier T every day.
Could I get you to share, either here or in a PM, your thoughts on your selection process that led you to the smaller oven? I was told by a supplier that the larger unit is more consistent and easier to program. Im nervous about having 6 elements that might some day need replacing rather than 4, but Im thinking that running 6 to achieve the same temp would put less stress on each? Im just a one man show, so either capacity would fit my needs. Maybe Im not thinking through clearly. Wouldn't be the first time.
 
Zubler USA

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Hi User,

I wouldn't worry about having to replace all the elements at the same time unless you are planning to buy an oven with SiC elements. SiC elements change electrical resistance over time and are typically wired in a parallel configuration which is why when it comes time to replace elements they all have to replaced instead of just one. MoSi2 heating elements maintain their electrical resistance and are typically wired in a series circuit and can be replaced individually making them much less costly if one goes out. Whether it be an oven with 4 or 6 elements the size will dictate the efficiency and capacity. Furthermore, make sure you are getting an oven with Speed MoSi2 elements with a maximum surface temperature of 1850C, these have a better surface coating making them less likely to be subject to oxidation from contaminates. These type of elements typically will have a higher heat rate capability 70-100c/min. They are also going to last a lot longer than their lower end regular speed (Max 30C/Min heat rate) MoSi2 counter parts that typically have a maximum surface temperature of about 1700C. They will definitely outlast SiC elements as well as since their maximum surface temperature tends to be about 1600C! This is why SiC elements go out so often. They are running at full blast all the time. The surface temperature is usually about 70C higher than the temperature in the chamber. Thus if your heating element is at 1600C, your chamber is a 1530C. The actual difference in degrees is of course dependent on the R value of the insulation and the chamber dimensions, but it tends to be around 70C.
 
corona

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im in the market too user. have you narrowed it down yet ??
 
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