is there a better way? denture Id's

hydent

hydent

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#1
I have been doing my denture id's almost the same way for quite a long time and have never really been satisfied with the staining. I use cold cure to place the id in and the id itself is shrink material typed with a typewriter and shrank down then I place a thin layer of super glue to create a layer over the ink to protect it from being damaged by monomer. I have tried triad gel and thats OK but it seems to collect tarter. Ideally I would like them to somehow be heat cured in the denture during the injecting or packing stage. I know someone has got to have a better way than cutting out a window and cold curing them into place for hell sake we are denture techs we can always think of something right. Any ideas or techniques would be appreciated.
 
kcdt

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#2
When I went to school they had us use a small shim on the intaglio, pull it out after a couple of trials, place the name tag (We use typewriting on onionskin then),and then cover with heat cure clear and continue trial packs. Worked pretty good, but you lose the tag at the first reline. I haven't figured out how to do the same on the cameo side.
I just cold cure them in with Great Lakes Splint Resin, as I've found that one degrades the least over time.
 
hydent

hydent

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#3
The shim method would not work with injected dentures that's kind of the problem with that. I have an idea that I am going to experiment with I will document it if it works and place it on the forum. There has got to be some dental tech working in there garage or basement out there who has an ingenious way of doing it without cold curing.
 
rkm rdt

rkm rdt

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#4
Why couldn't you laser print the name on the denture the same way you laser print a cd?

Nobel laser prints the file name on their little plastic containers they send their copings in,I'm sure there is a way to do this on a denture.
 
CYNOSURER

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#5
I'll see if I can't post some pics.
I made a two part silicone mold using some little rectangles of thin vacuum form material cut to various lengths.
I print the IDs using a computer linked Brother Ptouch printer to get a small font in bold and then cut it to it's smallest size.
Immediately after mixing the acrylic take a small amount and put in the silicone mold and press out. Place in a microwave and cook for 30 sec.
When the when the rest of the acrylic is ready to pack place the slightly stiffer but still flexible square with attached ID in an appriopriate spot. You have the option of printing in mirror to have it show though the palate or lingual on a lower.
Pack denture.
With Lucitone 199 the name appears to be floating in the acrylic. With other, less translucient, acrylics you can simply mix a small amount of clear material in the silicone instead.
 
CYNOSURER

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#6
Don't know how this would work with injection. Luting the square to the linguals of the teeth with a bit of cold cure might secure it. Another option,would be to make your silicone mold with a 'key'...maybe something as simple as a couple of pegs or a bar (so that the ID rectangle looks like a 'T' . Use the silicone mold to make a wax copy of the key that is added to the top of a wax up. After nuking the ID rectangle insert it into the boiled out key recesses. It could work. But I'm not familiar enough with those systems to know. I don't know if the adhesive would be strong enough to keep it attached to the ID rectangle during the injection process. I know they make a super adhesive label. I don't know if it would be necessary or if it would be strong enough either. I guess in some situations it would depend on the flow. Of course you could always press the ID between two layers of material before you nuke it. More experimenting than I want to do as I don't need it.:p But I've thrown out a few ideas.

Brian or Hydent, If you want to do a joint how-to article for JDT let me know. I'll tackle the press pack method and you can take on the injection. I know they'd like more removable technical articles (and they prefer they be written by CDTs) but it is time consuming and beggars can't be choosy, so if either of you are interested drop me a line. First one to get it to work wins.popcorn
 
hydent

hydent

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#7
I have a offer for Candulor or Enigma if they can produce a non pigmented (Clear) version of their color tones I can almost guarantee I can make something great happen which ever one gets to me first gets the credit.popcorn
 
kcdt

kcdt

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#8
As an aside, whatever happened to those id chips that were being tossed around a couple years back?
 
CYNOSURER

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#9
here's a pic of an ID using the Luc 199 placed in a bad position though and as thin as this denture is could have had the lettering facing the other way.

alh4.ggpht.com__dN32NxT_ME4_S6Tl8sRV_PI_AAAAAAAARS0_seI0idSHUFM_s288_P1010003_1.jpg
alh4.ggpht.com__dN32NxT_ME4_S6Tl8sRV_PI_AAAAAAAARS0_seI0idSHUFM_s288_P1010003_1.jpg
 
kcdt

kcdt

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#11
That's frikkin' ingenious. Do you have any problems with it wanting to migrate around during trial packs, or does it stay where you put it?
 
CYNOSURER

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#12
It normally stays...if you slightly underpack the first time or spead the dough around (finger pack) so that it doesn't create an unusual 'flow'.
 
hydent

hydent

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#13
I figured out a way to add an Id at packing stage with clear heat cure acrylic that turns out unbelievably nice. I tried it first on a press packed case the next case will be an injected one. I found the results to far exceed my expectations I'll post some pics as soon as I finish some injected ones. If I can figure out how to post pics on here.
 
hydent

hydent

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#14
This is a final heat cured Id using Minident Id material and clear lucitone heat cure acrylic, this was an injected denture. This technique takes the same or probably less time than cutting out a window and self curing I have used it on about 10 dentures and partials with crystal clear results and none have been botched yet I am using this technique on all of my dentures that have Id's from now on.
DSC_0046.jpg
 
Brian

Brian

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#16
Come, Come, list the steps... Very nice result for injecting with a closed system.. Cough it up!
 
CYNOSURER

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#17
Why are you using minident? I used it years ago before there was scalable fonts and computers and it was a pain. Are you using a typewriter with it or a printer? The brother label is so quick and comes out thin and flexible without all those extra steps. Probably cheaper in the long run, too. You could use Clear Lucitone with my technique but, being lazy, I just prefer to take a pinch of the freshly mixed 199.
 
hydent

hydent

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#18
I've always used minident just never tried anything else I'm open to try any materials. By extra steps do you mean shrinking it down? clarify the extra steps as I haven't used anything else. I use an old typewriter it's easy and close to my bench which makes it conveient. The beauty of this technique is you can place it in a more ideal and more apealing spot than the shimming technique. It's funny it seems like you are taking more time when you are doing the steps but after about the fourth one they are easy. When you break it out you don't have to mess with the id just finish her down and polish her up. I'll post the steps sometime today or tonight. I just figured out how to post pics on the forum and it took me a while so bare with me I'm not as experienced as you fellas at posting on forums.
 
CYNOSURER

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#19
Yes, you do have to shrink it down but often I found it overly thick afterwards and it then needing to be reduced...not too easy with these short, chubby fingers of mine. Having something with as big a footprint as a typewriter anywhere near my work area would be an inefficient use of space. The Brother Labeler is also handy for putting pt names on bags or boxes and labeling a lot of other things in the lab File folders, speed dials on phones, bottles (wouldn't want those old brown bottles filled with scotch to be mistaken for the ones filled with monomer) , employees, chairs, and other things to fun to mention.
 
kcdt

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#20
Tim can you e-mail me how to get back on IDF? I had server issues last month. I e-mailed you, but I don't know if you even got it.
 
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