is there a better way? denture Id's

kcdt

kcdt

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I've always used minident just never tried anything else I'm open to try any materials. By extra steps do you mean shrinking it down? clarify the extra steps as I haven't used anything else. I use an old typewriter it's easy and close to my bench which makes it conveient. The beauty of this technique is you can place it in a more ideal and more apealing spot than the shimming technique. It's funny it seems like you are taking more time when you are doing the steps but after about the fourth one they are easy. When you break it out you don't have to mess with the id just finish her down and polish her up. I'll post the steps sometime today or tonight. I just figured out how to post pics on the forum and it took me a while so bare with me I'm not as experienced as you fellas at posting on forums.
I'm interested because I'm using shrinkie dinks. How are you press packing it in? How are you injecting around it?
 
CYNOSURER

CYNOSURER

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kcdt

kcdt

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Thanks Tim, I really missed getting the feed for 3 weeks. Upside is I now own a server and can do anything I want!
 
OP
hydent

hydent

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First cut a piece of baseplate wax larger than the id being placed then dovetail the sides of the wax. Place the dovetailed swatch of wax in desired area for the id. Invest and boilout as normal, as you can see the dovetailed wax created undercut in the negative. when the flask cools down then mix desired amount of lucitone clear heat cure in a dappen dish place it in the negative space as pictured build it up beyond the rim 1 to 2 mm of the dovetailed negative next place your id material in place lightly pressing it into place, then try the flask halves together to check clearance. If you mix your acrylic at this point then the id will have reached a semi hard state that will be sufficient for packing or injecting especially if the flask is still warm. It's really similar to a in flask colorizing material like candulor's color tones it's the same principle and the good part is that it's quite convenient to do when you are coloring. Once it reaches that semi hard state you can then inject it as normal the dovetailed negative holds it into place. Brian I'm not sure how it would cure for ivocap you might try using the ivo clear material instead. I thought it would end up with porosity as it looked kind of dry and foggy before I packed it but they turn out exellent. I hope you all will try it on at least 5 denture's and tell me what you think. Tim how dare you replace a good old fashiond type writer with new technology. Actually I'll have to look into one of those the typwriter has some sentimental value its been around so long and it is quite convenient too.
DSC_0015_01.jpg DSC_0017_01.jpg DSC_0020_01.jpg DSC_0025_01.jpg DSC_0030_01.jpg DSC_0037_01.jpg
 
Brian

Brian

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Hydent,

Thanks! excellent technique..... Using the Ivocap would not be an issue.

It's funny it seems like you are taking more time when you are doing the steps but after about the fourth one they are easy.

Hydent your a smart fellow! The above statement is so true.. Keep doing what your doing.. Analyze on your end and improve.. Remember it's the outcome that matters..
 
CYNOSURER

CYNOSURER

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Have you tried just placing two short lengths of sprue wax (8 ga) separated by the length of the ID. Then you'd have your retentive peices in the negative mould but you wouldn't have to guess about the rim and the depth of the ID...and possibly less finishing. Just a thought.
 
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hydent

hydent

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Well I guess that would work too my concern is that if you have too much thickness and undercut it may lock it in and fracture it off during the breaking out process especially with stone being the investment material I found the baseplate wax works great but you can modify the technique if you want too.
 
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hydent

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Thanks Brian It's not very often I'm accused of being smart I apreciate the nice words.
 
CYNOSURER

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I don't inject, so I don't know if my suggestion would be better ot not. One of the reasons your technique, as is, works with minident is the bulk of the shrunken material helps it stay in position. If you go with the labelmaker you'll need to have a layer of clear covering the label so that it will stay in the clear. Just some things to think about. It looks like a great technique. Brian is obviously still hungover from last night...if he ever even went to bed...so don't let the smart crack go to your head. Let him get some coffee under his belt and he'll come around. :coffee:
 
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hydent

hydent

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I'm sorry you are still using inferior techniqes to fabricate dentures Tim. I'm assuming all of the techs on here have the common sense to modify the technique to fit their situation or material. I'll take compliments from a drunk Brian any day, I take what I can get what can I say.
 
kcdt

kcdt

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BRILLIENT! I wont call anyone smart 'cause that's causing problems.....
I do have to say that on top of demonstrating a great technique, you did a really good job posting the photos. You had me fooled with that aw shucks I cant figgur out the pictures bit... great post!
 
Brian

Brian

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I was a little groggy this morning....

Ken's right! Excellent post, pictures and the way you described things.. Great job.. Pay no attention to Tim..
 
CYNOSURER

CYNOSURER

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BRILLIENT! I wont call anyone smart 'cause that's causing problems.....
I do have to say that on top of demonstrating a great technique, you did a really good job posting the photos. You had me fooled with that aw shucks I cant figgur out the pictures bit... great post!
He's a bit smarter than me cause I haven't figured out how to post a series of thumbnails that will enlarge when you click on them.

If I could I wouldn't have had to use the link to my website. Right now I only know how to post single photos. Damn, maybe if I hadn't dissed hydent and brian they woulda edjimicated me. :eek:
 
Brian

Brian

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Actually, I haven't ciphered out how to post in thumbnails either... it's starting to irritate me.... Hydent please teach us mere indigents...
 
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hydent

hydent

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well to be honest I must have been beginners luck when I posted the pics. Here's how I did it though. Click on the attachments icon (The paper clip) browse files from your computer and double click the ones you want and when your done click on the upload button and wallah! as simple as 1,2,3. Thanks Ken for the kind words, I hope you guys will give it a try and give your 2 cents.
 
CYNOSURER

CYNOSURER

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hmm, seems simple enough so here goes:

P1010002-1.jpg P1010001-1.jpg P1010005-2.jpg P1010007-2.jpg P1010008-2.jpg
P1010009-2.jpg P1010010-1.jpg P1010011-1.JPG P1010013-1.jpg P1010022.jpg

Damn, it works! Thanks Hydent.

Now ya'll just have to go to my websight to read the captions...reading captions is like reading RXs...not necessary. :D
P1010002-1.jpg P1010001-1.jpg P1010005-2.jpg P1010007-2.jpg P1010008-2.jpg P1010009-2.jpg P1010010-1.jpg P1010011-1.JPG P1010013-1.jpg P1010022.jpg
 
kcdt

kcdt

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Holy crap I think we all just got schooled!
 
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hydent

hydent

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It would be nice if a dental company would make a specialized acrylic for this application something that handles like the colorizing materials but clear. That would be ideal, although the Lucitone clear worked fine it was just the only clear heat cure I had in the lab when I experimented with this technique. If someone does come up with a specialized acrylic for this I expect royalties , the product carries my name, retirement, payed health insurance, payed vacation, a company vehicle, and of coarse free materials. Do you think thats asking for too much?:car:
 
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hydent

hydent

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Forgot to mention you guys can stop calling me hydent and call me by my name (Bart). That would be Mr. Bart for you Tim, the rest of you can call me Bart of course.
 
TomZ

TomZ

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Bartofcourse-

not enough money in the idea.
 
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