They aren't resin bubbles but just air bubbles between the layers of film. I didn't know if maybe you could blow air between the layers in one of the holes on the bottom layer. I'll just have to stock up on trays because after 2 months of use, I've had this happen to two different trays, and I'm not doing anything weird with them.Those resin bubbles mean you've torn a hole in your tray. They're fatal to the tray, unless you're willing to re-line your own trays, which nobody really seems to do with Asiga trays even though it's possible. The layer on the bottom is just two plies of FEP film, held drumhead-taut by snap-in clips along the underside edge of the tray reservoir, with a hole punched in the lower one so air doesn't get trapped. The trays can disassemble and then reassemble repeatedly, just use a beefy slot-tipped screwdriver to bend the holding tabs on those clips back enough for the clips to drop out and release the film.
You can buy FEP film for cheap in bulk from Mcmaster-Carr, although I don't remember offhand what thickness of film is used for each ply. In principle, you can rebuild a tray for, like, $5 in film and half an hour of fiddling around? May or may not be worth your time. Rebuilding trays using bulk commercial FEP is extremely common with hobbyist 3D printers that use permanent resin trays intended to be relined many times, they're just designed in a way that's much easier to swap the film out than with the Asiga trays.
Next time you get a bubble in a tray, disassemble the tray completely so you can learn two things: 1) the thickness of the FEP plies, measured using a good micrometer (calipers or dental-specific metrology will probably not be accurate enough); and you can flatten the plies to get an idea of how big a sheet of FEP you'll need for your trays (although you should cut oversized sheets then trim post-assembly, if you trim to size you won't have any wiggle room).
Once you've relined a tray, it's good to go... until the RFID sticker runs dry, anyhow. It is possible to either duplicate RFID stickers infinitely, or else simulate RFID stickers using dynamic RFID chips, but it's not trivial to do successfully, the frequency and other factors need to match. I can't do it myself with Asiga tags, in any case, so you'll need to figure that out somewhere else.
Those resin bubbles mean you've torn a hole in your tray. They're fatal to the tray, unless you're willing to re-line your own trays, which nobody really seems to do with Asiga trays even though it's possible. The layer on the bottom is just two plies of FEP film, held drumhead-taut by snap-in clips along the underside edge of the tray reservoir, with a hole punched in the lower one so air doesn't get trapped. The trays can disassemble and then reassemble repeatedly, just use a beefy slot-tipped screwdriver to bend the holding tabs on those clips back enough for the clips to drop out and release the film.
You can buy FEP film for cheap in bulk from Mcmaster-Carr, although I don't remember offhand what thickness of film is used for each ply. In principle, you can rebuild a tray for, like, $5 in film and half an hour of fiddling around? May or may not be worth your time. Rebuilding trays using bulk commercial FEP is extremely common with hobbyist 3D printers that use permanent resin trays intended to be relined many times, they're just designed in a way that's much easier to swap the film out than with the Asiga trays.
Next time you get a bubble in a tray, disassemble the tray completely so you can learn two things: 1) the thickness of the FEP plies, measured using a good micrometer (calipers or dental-specific metrology will probably not be accurate enough); and you can flatten the plies to get an idea of how big a sheet of FEP you'll need for your trays (although you should cut oversized sheets then trim post-assembly, if you trim to size you won't have any wiggle room).
Once you've relined a tray, it's good to go... until the RFID sticker runs dry, anyhow. It is possible to either duplicate RFID stickers infinitely, or else simulate RFID stickers using dynamic RFID chips, but it's not trivial to do successfully, the frequency and other factors need to match. I can't do it myself with Asiga tags, in any case, so you'll need to figure that out somewhere else.
