SUPER-FURNACE!!! (Sintering)

[DMC]

This is for safty.

I got scared of watching my employees reach into a hot oven with some Micky-Mouse crap-ass tweezers or clamps or tongs and try to carefully remove hot trays of little teeth rolling around in balls.

Time to step-it up a notch and GO BIG!

Now we have room to safely remove 200 or more units of Zirconia without drama. Hands never enter the Hot chamber that is many feet above the lowered platform. Cool, huh?

We simply don't have time to wait for the entire chamber to cool. It's just too much mass. So, we lower the platform. Just like a Porc. oven.

Also, we can have the chamber ideling much higher than a normal front-loading oven without damaging the insulation or elements with thermal-shock.

Very limited drafting occurs with the bottom-loading style.



Scott

 

[DMC]

You gonna sell em?

What are your requirements?

Voltage? Space? Cycle times? Quantity of units?

Can you get Single or Three-phase power?

You may need the Warp-3 or the Warp-5.

There are even bigger furnace frames to work with. Warp-9?

We could go up to ludicrous-speed? But......this is what happened to the last guy that tried that.

Just warning ya. It's your choice.

 

[DMC]

My Stand for the Furnace...


I found these Two "things" under the building. I cleaned the rust off of them, flipped them back to back and screwed them together. Holes....bolts... Primer...Grey paint...
Now it's a furnace stand to raise it up 10" or so?




I think i have around 100 sintering elements floating around my lab.

Here are a few.....



Top, is my new Warp-7 element. The furnace uses Eight. Two on all Four walls.

Middle is a 3M size element. 6mm big and 3mm hot/small That furnace uses only Four elements. Two on opposing walls.

Bottom is a Glidewell....sometimes 6/12 and sometimes 5/10mm diameter. This is same arrangement. Nothing on back of furnace, Two on each side, and a crack in the door on the front.

I am 1000% sure this new furnace of mine will have a larger "true-heat" zone, and more even distribution of heat in the chamber. Duh!

Someone asked me about testing.....I bet this furnace will out bake any furnace on the market for Zirconia.

 

[DMC]

Do you guys know what Kanthal Super HT Elements are, or the 1900C version?

That's what 3M switched to a few years back. They are great, and expensive!

These are like those. NOT like the Glidewell and others elements.

They are much more expensive. They have no impurities in the alloy.

When the Silica layer eventually flakes off, you will not get dis-colored teeth!

They also withstand corrosion and oxidation much more than regular elements.

http://www.kanthal.com/products/fur...m-disilicide-heating-elements/element-grades/

 

[DMC]

Kara, if you are reading this, I have been waiting for this Furnace and a few other pieces of equi. before I split my business into Two. Alsomet there!! (almosts drunk as well)

If you are around..I'd love to have you join our team.

I am acquiring many awesome items from BB&T bank soon. It is a late deal.
We were suppost to be finished before the end of 2011. Not my fault. I had the $$.

I'm working as fast as I can to get my business into your neck of the woods!

I have Three extra Sintering ovens, extra seat of open CAM, Two mills, maybe One or Two 3D printers...many extra scanners. I think this is really going to happpen soon. No kidding.

Scott

 

[NicelyMKV]

What are your requirements?

Voltage? Space? Cycle times? Quantity of units?

Can you get Single or Three-phase power?

You may need the Warp-3 or the Warp-5.

There are even bigger furnace frames to work with. Warp-9?

We could go up to ludicrous-speed? But......this is what happened to the last guy that tried that.

Just warning ya. It's your choice.

Warp 3 most likely.

 

[Hary]

Congrats Scott, hope it does what you expect from it. i wonder if you will do e max crowns if i send you the files with my scanner the reason i am asking is that ivoclar will not sell me the ingots if i d'ont buy there furnace and systeme, by the way this is ivoclar canada, i called ivoclar usa they said they have a policy that they cant sell to canada, so i am wondering if you wii be able to do them?

 

[NicelyMKV]

Scott, price for warp 3? Such a thing? Looking for a sintering furnace as we speak.

 

[DMC]

You should not spend a penny more than $3500 for a new Furnace delivered to your door.

What color and theme do you prefer?

Mine, in this thread was sooo stupid cheap! I'm still laughing about it!!

This is my second Furnace from this manufacture.

I have used Furnace for $999. Three of them!

I stock Elements for most sizes. You would get extra elements with any furnace.

I have very cheap trays and Sintering beads as well. You can go buy from same people if you want, but I buy often in bulk to save.

The secret is, remove the word "Dental" from you seach. You will find most all materials and machines from other industries for mega-savings! Don't get ripped-off by the middle man slapping the word "Dental" onto something and multiplying the cost by a factor of 5.

Most of these machines existed before they were used in the Dental world.

 

[trianglej]

Prototype for sale

Our old BAO is up for sale, no shipping, pickup only.

 

[NicelyMKV]

Scott, How do I get in touch with you about the specifics?

 

[DMC]

Our old BAO is up for sale, no shipping, pickup only.

What the heck is that? Looks cool. BAO? Is that worse than just regular BO?

Looks big and heavy.

I want it, because it looks weird!

MoSi2 elements or Si ?

Is that a Red punching-bag for the Emergency stop button? LOL

Looks funny too me. I digg it!


Scott

 

[NicelyMKV]

Why do they not use the spiral quart muffles for sintering furnaces? Seems like it would be a lot more accurate even heating? Too high of a temp for longevity? Something about the element that will discolor Zr? Would be nice to have an accurate way to calibrate these things. Like the Ivoclar furnaces.

Jason

 

[DMC]

I believe that the thermocouple in all sintering furnaces have a ceramic shield or "condom" around them. They pretty much last forever.

No issues with calibration that I've ever heard about.

Yes, once every other year or so you will need to change the elements. (Maybe? Depends on use)

I did not want a round platform or chamber. I think the spiral quartz chambers are only round, and may take longer to heat and cool?? More mass to heat?

I'm sure those work well too, but I could have bought Three or Four ovens like mine for the cost of a Dekema or similar with that style heat.

You have to decide for yourself what floats your boat.

 

[NicelyMKV]

Well, I would love to know how to order one. Looks like on hell of a furnace.

 

[DMC]

Well, I changed the 20amp 230v circuit breaker myself today.
Couldn't wait for Mon.

I shut-down the power to the whole building! LOL

35 suites + ! Whoops-E-doo.

Just to be sure! I still had my heart racing like mad looking at all those big cables. It was Dark and nobody around.

I went to Home-Depot and matched the Eaton breaker to the next size up.

I figure that a 7000 watt load at 230V is barely over 30amp. Closer to 31amp. (3x my other ovens! LOL)

I'm going to try a 30amp breaker first. I don't know if my wires in the walls are made to go much over 30 amp. I'll ask my elecrtician on Mon.

So far, the breaker has not popped, and I'm still alive!

All functions on oven seem OK so far.
I'm going to run a wussy-cycle a few times to "season" the elements.
They will deform a little and sag into final happy zone. The Silica Layer will crystalize more, even out and get harder, and I'll be patient with cool-down to allow the layer to bond properly at first. Then, after it is use to it's new environment and we get to know each other a little more.....
I'll crank it up and abuse it.

This Furnace is not much larger inside than any other...OK, yes it is lager. But, not as big as you might think. Instead, the insulation is rediculous. Also Elements are 3-4 more power than usual.

This equates to super fast ramp rates. Hince the name...Warp-7.


It's more like a dragster of the Sintering world. Speed! Turn-around! Hundreds in and out in a hurry.

Final high-temp heat soak will remain the same.

The Furnace was built just as I requested. No safty! LOL

You can have the chamber at whatever temp you want. Open or Closed!

You can set it to self-destruct if you want! PERFECT! Just my style.

 

[araucaria]

cool looking piece of hardware scott
hope it does the job you want from it

 

[ed 3]

It's a bird, it's a plane, it's a Russian sputnik! popcorn

 

[DMC]

I bet I know what a lot of you are thinking right about now.

"How does Scott know that this thing will work? What if it's too powerful? How will the temp be certian for Dental application?"

Well, the furnace comes with a 708 controler that has Four different levels of auto-tune. "What is this?", you ask.

When elements are energized, they get Hot. There is a delay between this and the thermocouple picking up the temp changes as thay happen. When the circuit is cut to the elements....they are still glowing hot and adding more heat to the chamber...it will continue to rise in temp for a while.

This is different at all temps. The little baby computer in the controler will detect this and take samples as the temp rises in auto-tune mode. It makes permadent changes to the way it send out voltage to the elements as the furnace aproaches the set temp. "Learning"

The end result is hitting your high temp dead on, and not over shooting it.
The computer will maintain the temp better than a human could do. It's magic!

This is necessary if you want to have a furnace that is really tweeked out to your exact location....Voltage from your local carrier varies...resistance from your element group will vary, your transformer may be slightly different that others...insulation may be different? Who knows? But, each oven will be just a wee bit different.

This is how you can "tune" your oven.

Did that answer some of your questions??

Scott

 

[DMC]

Of course, if you think you are a know it all.....you can try to set it up yourself and see how it works? Skip the auto-tune. But, as the temp rises in the elements..their resistance changes. It's not a flat change, but a curve. It's kinda tricky IMO to dial in the current and cycle times to hold a temp. I can't do it better than the little computer.
It's like trying to dial in the air-fuel ratio for a car at various loads and rpms. Takes forever to do manually! Thank god for wide-band 02 sensors and computers~!

I messed with it for hours and figured out I had no idea what I was doing years ago. I though I was hot-sh1t for a while. I'm not.

If you are way wrong...your furnace will go too far beyond your high temp...then dip too low below the high temp as the computer just follows orders as to when to open and close the circuit. You could also fry your elements by sending too much current to them before they get above 400-500C in the beginning of the cycle. You'll crack them.