Replacing a tooth

[JMN]

@Rockelle over here we can type more than 255 charachter per post, and I'm not succinct enough for that, I need the 10000 charachter limit. Yes, I've hit that one too

Okay back in a minute, want to make sure you know where to look.

 

[Rockelle]

@Rockelle over here we can type more than 255 charachter per post, and I'm not succinct dnough gor that, I nee thd 10000 charachter limit. Yes, I've hit that one too

Okay back in a minute, wan to make sure yu know where to look.

Cool thank you. I am brand new to forums.

 

[JMN]

Rockelle

Do you use wax to set the tooth and contour the neck and then place the putty matrix over it? Then remove wax, replace maxtric and pour acrylic from the back of the tooth?

You certainly can, and i have. It is an exceloent way to get the look you want.

 

[Rockelle]

Okay, do you have any other methods or tricks up your sleeves? I guess what Im most afraid of is not setting the new tooth in correct position. I'm also trying to develop my eye for fine details.

 

[JMN]

My normal w/o the tooth
match shade & incisal width and 'style'- taper/square/etc. if nothing is close enough start with abigger tooth and grind to match. I've turned centrals and cuspids both into laterals more than once.

I endevor to leave the festooning and characterization alone, completely alone, facially. I'll grind out from the inside paper thin, lightly clean the mesial & distal surfaces of the two neighbors, deepen the hole as much as possible without going through the intagio, then the lingual/palatal of the hole gets angled slightly for more retention area ad give room for polisihig out to leave no material iterface line but color shift only between new and old. Now by hand test fit.

If it needs more massaging,( at 30K RPM...) adjust till it looks like it belongs.

For one tooth w/o an opposing, I'll set the tooth in a well/dappan dish of monomer while barely under filling the hole with wet mixed acrylic. Then settle tooth into position while acrylic is soft enough to move. Wait a few seconds and make sure it is fiddled into position and not wating to move 'round on it's own.

Drop in pot to cure.

Multiple teeth or with opposing I'll mouht or hand atriculate to check interference with bite paper

and if a funky opposing or posterior, I will mount(normally) or hand articulate(rarely) to set/wax/matrix pretty much as you suggest.

Did that help at all?

 

[JKraver]

My normal w/o the tooth
match shade & incisal width and 'style'- taper/square/etc. if nothing is close enough start with abigger tooth and grind to match. I've turned centrals and cuspids both into laterals more than once.

I endevor to leave the festooning and characterization alone, completely alone, facially. I'll grind out from the inside paper thin, lightly clean the mesial & distal surfaces of the two neighbors, deepen the hole as much as possible without going through the intagio, then the lingual/palatal of the hole gets angled slightly for more retention area ad give room for polisihig out to leave no material iterface line but color shift only between new and old. Now by hand test fit.

If it needs more massaging,( at 30K RPM...) adjust till it looks like it belongs.

For one tooth w/o an opposing, I'll set the tooth in a well/dappan dish of monomer while barely under filling the hole with wet mixed acrylic. Then settle tooth into position while acrylic is soft enough to move. Wait a few seconds and make sure it is fiddled into position and not wating to move 'round on it's own.

Drop in pot to cure.

Multiple teeth or with opposing I'll mouht or hand atriculate to check interference with bite paper

and if a funky opposing or posterior, I will mount(normally) or hand articulate(rarely) to set/wax/matrix pretty much as you suggest.

Did that help at all?

Once I fiddle with it I take a quick dunk in warm/hot not burning fingers water it beings the stiffening up process faster and have not noticed degraded acrylic. I cure at 90psi though.

 

[JMN]

Once I fiddle with it I take a quick dunk in warm/hot not burning fingers water it beings the stiffening up process faster and have not noticed degraded acrylic. I cure at 90psi though.

Interesting, thanks!

Never thought about it. My pressure pot water is always between 120f and 160f and cure pressure is 19.8-30psi on most of my material. I don't try for 19.8, I'm not that cool.