Ive got it, youll want it. Lava Esthetic

JMN

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The conversation was quickly side tracked by the news Wikileaks is going to release the story we never landed on the moon. Stay tuned...
Sure we did, they just never told us it's hollow
 
sidesh0wb0b

sidesh0wb0b

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Could you tell us more about what Jensen said?
they are the distributor for the 3M Lava Esthetic. though not sure if they will be exclusive dealers....i am guessing uncle hankie will have his hand in it too.
they have heard and seen some decent results out of the Lava Esthetic from what I am told, and they also had ppl complaining about the Katana darker shades too. the only reason i bring up katana was because @user name has been using it and mentioned it....and also because 3M specifically used the Katana as a reference point in some of their marketing and comparison studies.
 
Car 54

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Thank you, Bob. I use Katana also, so it will be interesting to see what they say in their marketing as far as comparisons.
 
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sidesh0wb0b

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Thank you, Bob. I use Katana also, so it will be interesting to see what they say in their marketing as far as comparisons.
no prob. i havent used katana since i got my mill...but i guess i should try it again eventually.
 
CreDes

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I have milled a few Katana UTML crowns and yesterday one of them snapped in two while the Dr. was seating it. I have had Imagine crowns break into two pieces on the bench. Some of these zirconias are not really the "zirconia" that we are accustomed to. Maybe the new Lava is different?
 
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ive had some excellent results with ZZ prettau anterior i have done about 30 anteriors so far no reshades .I know what your thinking what a great ceramist i must be but i do feel that the material did a lot of the work.Even though its about the same trans as emax MO it does behave better than emax on discoloured teeth i do like being able to colour my own copings ive never been a great fan of pre or multi coloured blanks.
 
Sda36

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ive had some excellent results with ZZ prettau anterior i have done about 30 anteriors so far no reshades .I know what your thinking what a great ceramist i must be but i do feel that the material did a lot of the work.Even though its about the same trans as emax MO it does behave better than emax on discoloured teeth i do like being able to colour my own copings ive never been a great fan of pre or multi coloured blanks.
Good point, thank you!
 
Sda36

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What are your cooling parameters, each & every cycle?
 
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sda the cycles i use are the ones zz recommend with some tweeking i suggest you contact zz or look up the website my cycles probably wouldnt work as well for you because every furnace is a bit different.But start with 1450c hold for 2hours nothing to fancy normal clime and fall should take about 7-8 hours
 
Sda36

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sda the cycles i use are the ones zz recommend with some tweeking i suggest you contact zz or look up the website my cycles probably wouldnt work as well for you because every furnace is a bit different.But start with 1450c hold for 2hours nothing to fancy normal clime and fall should take about 7-8 hours
Thank you Grantoz!![emoji5]
 
CoolHandLuke

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I have milled a few Katana UTML crowns and yesterday one of them snapped in two while the Dr. was seating it. I have had Imagine crowns break into two pieces on the bench. Some of these zirconias are not really the "zirconia" that we are accustomed to. Maybe the new Lava is different?
i see nowhere on the katana literature what the composition is, in terms of material, or crystal shape. i can infer that the katana brands are at least partly cubic, or small grain size, to obtain the enamel-like features and low strength characteristic to cubic zirconia.
 
dmonwaxa

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Ive shot so many pics, and I cant get a shot with both bridges and a shade tab looking good. Ive tried different backgrounds, playing with the flash, I just said screw it. I can get good intra orals, but on the bench needs some work. I have snow to go shovel.

Zirc almost always look very opaque in flash photography. BLAH!!!!! You'll need to filter the Flash a Bit....use layers of copy paper...1 to 4 should do. It acts as a diffuser so the light does not bounce directly back at you resulting in the headlight look. Not sure of your camera setup, but it can be adapted both to dslr or camera phone using some scotch tape to secure layers..

"Edited for spelling and completeness...."
 
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CoolHandLuke

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Zirc almost always look very opaque in flash photography. BLAH!!!!! You'll need to filter the Flash a Bit....use layers of copy paper...1 to 4 should do. It acts as a diffuser so the light does not bounce directly back at you resulting in the headlight look. Not sure of your camera setup, but it can ve adaptar both to dslr or camera phone.


what about

 
user name

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Zirc almost always look very opaque in flash photography. BLAH!!!!! You'll need to filter the Flash a Bit....use layers of copy paper...1 to 4 should do. It acts as a diffuser so the light does not bounce directly back at you resulting in the headlight look. Not sure of your camera setup, but it can ve adaptar both to dslr or camera phone.
I need to go back through the photography threads and restorations du jour and see if anyone shows a light box set up or some flash tricks. I recognized I was getting angry and just had to quit.
 
dmonwaxa

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Buddy í just shared a tip.....:D:D:D

Sometimes no flash or very little (dim) ambient lighting results in better results. Same idea as paper layers I suggested.

Another.

White athletic tape works niceee! And can be layered in strips. The drawback is that it leaves behind some tacky stuff.....but for .99 cents at Wallyworld or other discount retailers like Dollar stores or .99 cents stores I'll deal with the tacky.
 
user name

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Buddy í just shared a tip.....:D:D:D

Sometimes no flash or very little (dim) ambient lighting results in better results. Same idea as paper layers I suggested.

Another.

White athletic tape works niceee! And can be layered in strips. The drawback is that it leaves behind some tacky stuff.....but for .99 cents at Wallyworld or other discount retailers like Dollar stores or .99 cents stores I'll deal with the tacky.
Already played with the paper tricks, but thanks. That is good. I think my biggest issue is having the right amount of light bounce off surrounding stuff. Im trying to make a simple pedestal to try illuminating from underneath to show comparative translucency, and then most frustrating is figuring out how to shoot showing fluorescence.
 
dmonwaxa

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All depends on direction of light and angle of observation.
 
user name

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All depends on direction of light and angle of observation.
I appreciate the help.:) I don't ever photo my own work out of the mouth, so I didn't have proper appreciation for the work that went into it, like Al shows on the restorations de jour thread, or what Brent had to accomplish with the NexxZr + competition.

Its a skill, I can learn it...eventually. Now, what about doing the pics under a black light? Any suggestions?
 
Sda36

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I appreciate the help.:) I don't ever photo my own work out of the mouth, so I didn't have proper appreciation for the work that went into it, like Al shows on the restorations de jour thread, or what Brent had to accomplish with the NexxZr + competition.

Its a skill, I can learn it...eventually. Now, what about doing the pics under a black light? Any suggestions?
Hi user, I remember Ryan Gottlieb, our proud winner of NexxZr+ competition, mentioning really ramping up the ISO for shooting Zr. Maybe give that a shot as it is quite a unique material in Our world. [emoji4]
 
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