Favorite Porcelain(s) ?

Paulh

Paulh

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Noritake EX3

Noritake EX3 for my pfms

Czr for my Zirconia( do they still make zirconia?)

Emax for all ceramic.

Love this porcelain yet, I would love an alternative opaque.I think this opaque is technique sensitive.
Anyone using a different opaque, than the EX3 opaque?
 
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charles007

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Love this porcelain yet, I would love an alternative opaque.I think this opaque is technique sensitive.
Anyone using a different opaque, than the EX3 opaque?

Paul, I used EX3 with the paste over 15 years without any problems. If you think the paste is sensitive, increase the dry time by 1 or 2 minutes, and don't have your low temp higher than 500C.
What problems are you having ?
 
rkm rdt

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We love the opaque.Our low temp is actually 400c with a long drying time however we only need one opaque.

The opaque modifiers are great for 3d shades like 5m1, 3m1
 
Paulh

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Thanks Charles and rkm for a reponse.

The problem is with the liquid mixing and not suppose to be mixing, causing some bubbles late in porc.trying to keep the liquid drawn off the top of the opaque jar and the right consitency.
Gentlemen, chime in here and advise,please

Denise with Zahn tech support is working with us.
 
dmonwaxa

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Thanks Charles and rkm for a reponse.

The problem is with the liquid mixing and not suppose to be mixing, causing some bubbles late in porc.trying to keep the liquid drawn off the top of the opaque jar and the right consitency.
Gentlemen, chime in here and advise,please

Denise with Zahn tech support is working with us.

Paul, is the porcelain blistering and/or cracking?
 
rkm rdt

rkm rdt

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You have to keep the opaque liquid mixed in with the paste.The paste tends to settle after time ,allowing the liquid to "rise to the top". You want to keep the solution active but you shouldn't dilute it with more opaque liquid unless absolutley necessary.
Too much liquid can cause the opaque to bubble which is what may be happening in your case.

If you think the paste is too low of a viscosity, try applying a thin wash coat onto your coping ,letting it dry well as described earlier, and fire.Observe the results under your microscope and then go from there.

Are you using the paste directly from the jar?
 
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charles007

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Thanks Charles and rkm for a response.

The problem is with the liquid mixing and not suppose to be mixing, causing some bubbles late in porc.trying to keep the liquid drawn off the top of the opaque jar and the right consistency.
Gentlemen, chime in here and advise,please

Denise with Zahntech support is working with us.

Everytime you open your jar, you mix it up... As the paste opaque ages, you will need to add a touch of liquid to bring back to the original consistency. I doubt you will need to add extra liquid more than twice, unless your opaque is very old.
If your getting blistering, its from fast dry time, low temp to high or painting on to thick of a layer of opaque in one layer. Bridge pontics were my only problems if I put one to thick of a layer.
Also learned if you get blistering, refinish your metal as usual and start all over with the opaquing... Don't try to patch up blistering, it always shows up later.... Ask me how I know !!
Cleaning your brush with water and not rewetting with opaque liquid will create problems, water and paste opaque are not compatible.

How many layers of opaque are you applying ? Don't try to fire only one layer !
 
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Mark Jackson

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We all know that glass is not glass but for the most part the worst porcelain in the hands of a skill tech will look better than the most expensive porcelain in the hands of an average tech. I shoot for in the middle.

Well said, and a perfectly sound way of choosing materials.

We use Shofu for PFM's and Zirconia. Vita for Alumina. Lot's of eMax of course.
 
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charles007

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Please don't put a target on my back !!!

Has anyone used vm9 on your 3D shades to layer the facial only with Emax

JUST ASKING
 
ps2thtec

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After dealing with the "new omega vita" line mid 90's, was a huge disappointment and failure.
Switched to SYNSPAR. Every modifier you ever need and soft incisals.
The VCH line handles the 3D shades great. And spray opaque.
Word is, Ivoclar is to start ad campaign to push Synspar. I did wonder if Inline was a knockoff of Synspar.

Ditto John Wilsons comment!
 
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charles007

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After dealing with the "new omega vita" line mid 90's, was a huge disappointment and failure.
Switched to SYNSPAR. Every modifier you ever need and soft incisals.
The VCH line handles the 3D shades great. And spray opaque.
Word is, Ivoclar is to start ad campaign to push Synspar. I did wonder if Inline was a knockoff of Synspar.

Ditto John Wilsons comment!

I thought the new Omega was the best thing since sliced bread... Best opacious dentins and translucent enamels ever made at the time. :)
Synspar, give me a break:) Avante is years ahead, and Zahn will tell you that....
Some techs still love Ceramco :D, other swear by Vita :).... Guess we all see porcelain from different views.
Me, I see porcelain powders as a thing of the past :D
 
Bobby Orr ceramics

Bobby Orr ceramics

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Every ceramic I've used had unique characteristics that would take me to the promised land more than others depending on the clinical situation........it's impossible to have 1 favourite material when teeth have so many various "looks" to capture.

Ceramic Socrates
 
Paulh

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thanks to all response..yes, we are applying 2-3 layers, depending on how dark the oxide.
I believe there has been some blistering , very small bubbles that come out late in the process, that appears to be mini - gassing bubbles, all the way to the alloy.

Charles007, we are implementing all the things you spoke about.

I was also wondering, using the coefficent of opaques and porcelains. If anyone is using a different opque with the Noritake porcelians?
 
rkm rdt

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thanks to all response..yes, we are applying 2-3 layers, depending on how dark the oxide.
I believe there has been some blistering , very small bubbles that come out late in the process, that appears to be mini - gassing bubbles, all the way to the alloy.

Charles007, we are implementing all the things you spoke about.

I was also wondering, using the coefficent of opaques and porcelains. If anyone is using a different opque with the Noritake porcelians?

No
 
rkm rdt

rkm rdt

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If there is gas coming from your alloy,get rid of your alloy!
 
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charles007

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I have gas every morning... Oh, you mean alloy gas.... Has nothing to do with Noritake opaque...
Decontaminate oven, replace crucible if nasty, check oxy/propane levels, throw out burs ?, what are you using to finish alloys ? carbides ? pink stones ? is a starting point.
 
CatamountRob

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What is the alloy? High palladium? Any of the things Charles mentioned can do it, but I would start with the torch settings.
 
rkm rdt

rkm rdt

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I have gas every morning... Oh, you mean alloy gas.... Has nothing to do with Noritake opaque...
Decontaminate oven, replace crucible if nasty, check oxy/propane levels, throw out burs ?, what are you using to finish alloys ? carbides ? pink stones ? is a starting point.

That was my point.

It's not the opaque. I trim ,sandblast and apply the opaque (1 layer).No bubbles in 10 years!
 
Paulh

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Paul, I used EX3 with the paste over 15 years without any problems. If you think the paste is sensitive, increase the dry time by 1 or 2 minutes, and don't have your low temp higher than 500C.
What problems are you having ?
thanks Charles...you have been helpful...I think the dry time is the key..
 
rkm rdt

rkm rdt

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The drying temp is even more important.
 

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