EMAX cracks

David S.

David S.

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We are getting cracks in our emax after it is fired for stain and glaze. We are using Vacumat 6000.
Starting temp: 403 C
6 min dry time
50 rise
Vacuum comes on at 453
Final temp 735 C
Hold 1 min

We are at wits end trying to figure out what is going on. Don't know if they might be too thin or a thick and thin spot together.
 
DMC

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I have never even seen an eMax crown in person.

Crazy, eh? Just not interested in that material at all.

Have fun! LOL

I am sure in a few seconds someone will help you.......

5,4,3,2....
 
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How thin? How long is your cool/opening time? Are the crowns being adjusted after pressing?
 
Labwa

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Sounds like you should slow cool. maybe 550-500. I go real slow on all my e.max cooling.
 
A

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If thin occlusal and thick axial walls you can get crack on the occlusal
you can sometimes heal crack by running up at a on a specific cycle,
Know labs that are doing that.
will post later.
 
David S.

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How thin? How long is your cool/opening time? Are the crowns being adjusted after pressing?
I don't think there is a cool time it just opens. They are being adjusted after press but with a high speed and water. We do not have them thinner that 0.4mm.
 
2thm8kr

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Are you using carbides to adjust?
 
2thm8kr

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I don't think there is a cool time it just opens. They are being adjusted after press but with a high speed and water. We do not have them thinner that 0.4mm.

Posterior emax shouldn't be thinner than 1.2mm.
 
Marcusthegladiator CDT

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Need pics and measurements..
 
NicelyMKV

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Slow cool will help a lot. I had trouble with the metal pin style firing pins. They would stick to the Emax material sometimes and cause a crack when I pulled the crown off. When I say stick, I mean just barley noticeable, but enough.
 
2thm8kr

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whoa...

seems unwieldily huge number to me

If you're not getting enough occlusal reduction, you should be using a different material. Zr should be .5 mm, yes? Doctor is not giving this guy enough reduction for consistent success.
 
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Take crown up to 840 use everything else the same as stain and glaze, also fill
crown with object fix from ivoclar to prevent warping.
 
CoolHandLuke

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we have good success with 3/4mm
 
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I get it everyday. On the rare occasion I don't, Zr it is or reprep/ reduce opposing.
I get it from my accounts too. You have to let them know whats required for a specific material to be successful. Fortunately, when theres not enough room, e.max ceram blends well right down to a thin Zir coping.

If you don't have time to do it right, how will you have time to do it over?
 
ps2thtec

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I don't think there is a cool time it just opens. They are being adjusted after press but with a high speed and water. We do not have them thinner that 0.4mm.

How fast it opens would be your cool. Leave the sager tray sit there a couple mins. before grabbing it.

I fire all posterior directly on the honeycomb tray, no peg. Never a problem, and if néeded , use a little superPeg putty on a wire MasterCeramist peg. Also cool for four min minimum.
 
Patrick Coon

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Posterior Recommendations are: 1.5mm On occlusion and axial walls, 1.0mm at margins. These recommendations are for strength in the posterior.

As for the cracking, 0.4mm across the occlusion with probaly a much thicker cusp on either side would cause uneven cooling and cause a stress crack during cooling. Definitely adding a slow cooling to 500C/932F (if your oven is by temperature) or 7 minutes (if your oven is by time) would help, but at those thicknesses it may not solve it.

Also, I would not recommend using a high speed for adjustments, even with water cooling. At the thicknesses you are talking about it would not take much to create a thermal crack. And definitely no carbides. Stones and Diamonds only.

Hope this helps.
 
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