Titan.. and serious Lab Day add-ons in the works!

[Andrew Priddy]

Serious Lab Day Special in the works.. will let you know



we've got a lot of work to do

At the "Palette course in Chicago", we will also learn about OIL preservation and how it relates to "Welding 3D Prints". The course includes the Kit...
The "Palette Manual" is currently in editing and expected to be at Lab Day with the Kit.

 

[Seth Barton]

Thanks for that. I've been having some trouble getting the gingival shades I want and you gave me some ideas!

 

[Gigieiya]

Looks nice

 

[sunwaltmodel]

Is the resin suppose to be so thick? It's like pancake batter. I've tried heating it slightly but still pretty thick consistency.

 

[Andrew Priddy]

Is the resin suppose to be so thick? It's like pancake batter. I've tried heating it slightly but still pretty thick consistency.

yes it is pretty thick.. i would suggest warming the build plate and adding more sprues to print. what machine are you using? is it validated? we are printing in test mode.

 

[sunwaltmodel]

yes it is pretty thick.. i would suggest warming the build plate and adding more sprues to print. what machine are you using? is it validated? we are printing in test mode.

Right now im testing on my invalidated Phrozen Sonic Mighty 8K, I did see where the phrozen 4Ks were validated. Going to try my Asiga 4K later today. Problem with Phrozen is they dont have temperature control, i heated as much as i could before print but cools down fast during printing im sure
im hoping for better luck with my Asiga. Got 1outof2 to print successfully on the phrozen, failed was a palette, success was a 8unit bridge.

 

[tuyere]

The printing process is exothermic so it warms itself to some degree. I wouldn't recommend heating it pre-print like you are, though, it'll make the exposure characteristics change uncontrollably mid-print, as curing proceeds faster at higher temps- you'll get overexposure at first that'll taper off as you go. Might be an issue, might not. Why do you want it heated, anyways, just ease of handling? You can compensate for very thick resins with your print settings, you'll want a very slow retract with extended pauses after movement so the resin has time to extrude in or out, and to limit the destructive action of the high suction pressure you'll get with thick resins.

 

[Andrew Priddy]

The printing process is exothermic so it warms itself to some degree. I wouldn't recommend heating it pre-print like you are, though, it'll make the exposure characteristics change uncontrollably mid-print, as curing proceeds faster at higher temps- you'll get overexposure at first that'll taper off as you go. Might be an issue, might not. Why do you want it heated, anyways, just ease of handling? You can compensate for very thick resins with your print settings, you'll want a very slow retract with extended pauses after movement so the resin has time to extrude in or out, and to limit the destructive action of the high suction pressure you'll get with thick resins.

the resin isn't validated yet, and IMO it needs a longer print exposure time. i don't have a heater in the SOL, but i assure you that after many failed prints, warming the plate makes a difference, as well as additional sprues

 

[Andrew Priddy]