Flexible Dentures

[Jmichael]

Any sample tubes I've seen come with processing instructions.

Mine came with time & temp only, but thanks for your help. I spoke with Kris Schermerhorn at Meyerson last night who was very generous with his time and expertise. Injected the case minutes ago, will know how it turned out soon.

 

[Affinity]

Put in two calls to myerson for support over a month ago and never heard a thing back. Ordering some tcs for the next round.
Been doing 2-4 of these a month.. flexpress is working nice but I still get large bubbles inside the material..

 

[nvarras]

I used to get the bubbles inside the myerson. You've either got moisture inside your diatorics in the teeth, putting your sprues in the wrong spot or cooling your flask too much.

I now blow out the diatorics with some air when super flying the teeth to the inside of the flask, sprue to the thinnest part of the partial and I no longer cool the flask by placing it in the freezer I just let it bench cool. Problem solved.


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[Affinity]

These are large bubbles.. not porosity. Last one was probably 6mm + diameter. About 3 mm from the surface. Could be air from the diatorics i guess

 

[nvarras]

Are they underneath the teeth? If so I would think its moisture coming out of the diatorics. If it's not around the teeth I would look at your sprues.


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[AJEL]

Duraflex 230*c 445*f preheat furnace check with a laset no contact temp guage that you have the correct temperature, 15 min melt at proper temperature.
The Myerso separator should be applied to a warm duplicate type 5 stone model (with lots of ventilation) prior to waxup or setting teeth. After flasking & boilout the surface that was not coated should be only warm to touch when applying. (lots of ventilation the stuff is rough on eyes).
Officially the flasks do not need to be preheated, I have mine in drying oven at 225*f prior to injection and hold under injector for 5 min. at only 110 psi (about 7 bar).
As Nichole unless you got some strange packaging instructions were on that mylar envelope the tube came in.
It is not as moisture sensitive as FRS or Valplast, but caution always a good idea. Water anywhere can make steam voids. I use an extra 6G sprue to heavy areas when in doubt.

 

[Affinity]

The bubble was in a buccal saddle area.. not too close to a tooth

 

[AJEL]

The bubble was in a buccal saddle area.. not too close to a tooth

So had the flasked case been placed in a drying oven, there could have been a bubble in the model that contained water. Were you using type IV stone and had you vac mixed it?
A hand spatulated model can and does contain voids, these voids will fill with water during boil out and when a 445* nylon comes close enough you get steam, makes a nice void in the nylon. Even the seam between the model & the flask containing stone can contain moisture (voids in flanges). Kinda makes sense when you think it out.

 

[Affinity]

Yes definitely Ajel. Thanks for the input ill keep that in mind.

 

[Terry Whitty]

The Flexpress is an awesome machine, fully automatic and the training you can get from the developer is awesome. Pricey? No. Good value , yes! It is sold by Myerson in Chicago, but I'm sure their may be dealers elsewhere.
There is a big difference in the materials too, Duraflex is a Polyolfin while others tend to be Nylons..so that is why it is so different.
The machine will press just about any flexible material, but why bother when you try materials designed for the machine you will be sold.

 

[tincho73]

Hi everybody.

As a technician (certified)for 20 yers aprox. now , and 2 years away of getting my dentist degree , i must say 2 things:

1- as a technician , i´m not happy whit results,and feel uncomfortable with the overall process ( been working whit pressed materials since ´94 - acetalic clasp)
2-As a dental school student , been doing some research in the clinical side of the material , and the results we got is that is not so bone friendly. Perhaps is suitable as a provisional denture or partial after implat surgery , and for not more than the time needed for integration. The "flexible" characteristic makes it produce more pressure over residual bone , making it reduce faster than usual.

Hope this helps , best regards

Martin

 

[1faux28mkr]

Hi There,

I was hoping for a little advice regarding flexible dentures. Our current position is that we are outsourcing at the moment and would like to bring this inhouse. The three systems I have been looking at are Valplast, Flexite and TCS.

Valplast is the name everyone thinks of when you mention flexible dentures and has a good reputation and has been around 50 odd years.

Flexite seem how have a large range of products out there e.g you can process full dentures and as an alternative to a chrome framework in some cases.

TCS from what I have been told is the young pretender to the Valplast throne with its new 4th generation flexible materials plus more coming out on the U.K market soon.

I have spoken to a few other lab owners over the subject with mixed reviews but would just like some further advice before taking the plunge.

 

[1faux28mkr]

You might want to take a look at this brand new system from Lincoln. It is Snow Rock Denture Injection System/Materials! Regards...B

 

[Terry Whitty]

Put in two calls to myerson for support over a month ago and never heard a thing back. Ordering some tcs for the next round.
Been doing 2-4 of these a month.. flexpress is working nice but I still get large bubbles inside the material..

The sprung technique is important to avoid bubbles. You also need to narrow the sprues out just before they enter your waxwork.
I think there is a few you tube videos that you can look at that cover this.

 

[nvarras]

Narrowing out the sprues is a great idea with acetals. Not necessary with the Duraflex material.


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[Shawn8181]

I repair with the hotshot gun. hot air heat up area to a tacky state then squirt on melted material from hotshot gun. good for adding teeth , clasps , ive even cut one in half and repaired it ! If you dont have gun you can use old material from previous injection ( always save those) and heat with hot air flame till melted and add to tacky repair area. this way is a little harder and takes some practice.
As for polishing use minature scotch brite brushes. progress from coarse to fine. Wet pumice. then final with water to keep cool.

This is really gd info.... Which 3m bristles would you recommend? Also what do you use to reduce flanges and quickly smooth out and shine? Sorry but I'm having frustrating times with this stuff.....
Appreciated

 

[AJEL]

3M radial bristle makes things quite a bit faster & less frustrating.
Order a 1" kit, at same time order extra white & blue disks. you will use one at a time per mandrel, depending on how light your touch is they can last up to 5 cases each. (you don't need a hi speed but will learn that on your practice.
http://www.sfjssantafe.com/items.php?Gid=270&ItemSet=Polishing&DepId=tools
http://www.sfjssantafe.com/itemstable.php?Gid=269&ItemSet=Polishing&DepId=tools&ot=&at=

Order a bunch of 3/4" mint green 1 micron disks, you will use 3 at a time on mandrel.
http://www.sfjssantafe.com/itemstable.php?Gid=271&ItemSet=Polishing&DepId=tools&ot=&at=

inject your flexible, Break out (I use a Chicago pneumatic CP-9361 air scribe with a chisel),rough out your case Rough cross cut goldie or stone, use the blue 1" gets rid of the fuzzies & shapes clasps & around tooth area, Use the White 1" to smooth over and get mat finish, the 3/4" mint green will get a smooth ready to hi shine with Myersons scratch remover. The mint green is also great for hi shine PMMA around implant's\attachments without worry of pumice deforming them.

I sometimes use the 3" disks (red & mint green) but more for PMMA relines or repairs, rough-out on CLEARSplint than use on flexables.
http://www.sfjssantafe.com/itemstable.php?Gid=324&ItemSet=Polishing&DepId=tools&ot=&at=

If you find better prices let me know, these were the best I have found.

 

[Affinity]

took your advice ajel and ordered from santa fe, great prices and the wheels work great on all kinds of material.

 

[troutsnoggle]

Yes. 446F or 230 C for 12.5 minutes with a 3 minute hold time but be aware that those temperatures were tested on Myerson's FlexPress machine and your machine may have different temps so you might want to test it out first.
I would lay a sheet of baseplate wax on a model and wrap clasps around the abutments. If it presses then you should be good. Be sure to sprue to the thinnest areas. Yes thinnest, not thickest.
Intructions = http://www.duracetal.com/flexpress-manual-v.5.4.pdf
I was warping the clasps at first. Now I just shine one small area at a time and I only hold the flame to those areas for less than a second. Then I alternate heating from one side of the partial to the other to let one side cool down while I work on the other side.
If you just keep heating one side, too much heat will build up and that area will warp. Be patient with unilaterals. It's best to pause before continuing with the heat.
You have to use a flameless torch with a narrow tip (only a few mms wide) on low. If you try to heat it with an air dryer that has a half inch tip, forget it. You're going to wish that you had a time machine so you could go back in time before your perfect fitting partial wasn't warped beyond repair.
Some dentists want the high shine but I think Nichole makes a good point about that high shine being a bit too much. The material is very translucent and acts as a chameleon for the tissue and teeth behind it. A very high shine looks pretty but it can make the material stand out rather than blend in. I only use the torch for my accounts that prefer the super high shine.

 

[Affinity]

Anyone have any recommendations for pressing TCS in the Flexpress? I would assume the larger tubes take longer... There is a program set up on it already but I havent tried it yet.