yeah its not easy. One of the best things i can say with bridge work is cut through the porc to the connector on the first build then fill in with the second/third.
If you try and build in the contact point and cut in after firing you will always struggle to get full seperation with bridge work as you are constantly worried about hitting metal.
Maby you are already doing this but its much easier to create units that look like single teeth if you do it in ceramic, dont cut it.
Its less productive but the resluts speak for them selves.
Infact cutting in anything always leads to artificial results. Just takes a damn load of experience and practice to do it in ceramic.
Re the surface glaze, the best middle ground i have found on natural teeth is a kind of plastic finish/luster. I rubber wheel units, glaze with paste then buff with lave/pumice to acheive this. Also results in an ULTRA smooth finish for less plaque adhesion.
At the very least you could use a rubber wheel and knock down the luster of the mesial/distal line angles. This would make a big difference stright away. Imagine the lips and how they erode prominent points of the tooth then replicate this in the surface finish.
I cant imagine that you would ever need to use diamond paste on a stright glaze fire unless you are underfiring your glaze cyle to preserve micro texture or it is an elderly very worn tooth perhaps. Normally a paste glaze is to much on its own.
I constantly pick my own work to peices under close up photography, its the only way to keep improving
the day you say your work is great is the day you stop improving.
