Dental photography

[dmonwaxa]

I'm on the left and my buddy Jim is on the right.[/QUOTE]

What brand of binoculars are you guys using, you do know they make em smaller now, dont cha?popcornpopcorn

 

[JonB]

I'm on the left and my buddy Jim is on the right.

What brand of binoculars are you guys using, you do know they make em smaller now, dont cha?popcornpopcorn[/QUOTE]


Ha! I used three cameras at that show -
Canon 1D Mark IV with a 500mm and a 1.4TC for a total of a 910mm equivalent
Canon 1D Mark III with a 300mm and 1.4TC for a total of 546mm
(both include a 1.3 crop factor on the sensor)
Canon 5D Mark II with a 100-400 zoom - full frame sensor so no crop factor

My friend Jim was using his Canon 1Ds Mark III with an 800mm.

We lay these out in front of us and shoot till we fill the buffer and then reach down and grab another one and keep going. Jim rotates at least four camera, lenses and bodies all the time. I use only 3.

 

[dmonwaxa]

Jon, do you guys switch out lenses between cameras when shooting, and how many batteries do you guys carry?

 

[stumpf]

I found this site in the internet 2d pictures to 3d picture! I like it! Maybe,this is a good possibility to check the characteristic of the patient's face.

FaceGen - 3D Human Faces

 

[dmonwaxa]

I found this site in the internet 2d pictures to 3d picture! I like it! Maybe,this is a good possibility to check the characteristic of the patient's face.

FaceGen - 3D Human Faces

That video is pretty neat. I DLd the software to try later.

 

[JonB]

Jon, do you guys switch out lenses between cameras when shooting, and how many batteries do you guys carry?

Not too much - it is so dirty out on the flightline and there is always corvis oil being burned for smoke effect floating in the air. lly we have a body for each lens we use. We usually clean our sensors every night while the day's photos are being loaded onto the hard drives as some lens swaps to shoot the statics are necessary.

The 1D Mark III and Mark IV batteries are the same and they are incredible! I carry one extra for each camera when going out of town - but if i start with a full charge - i rarely have to change batteries the whole weekend - no matter how many shots I take. The 5D Mark II has a battery grip that holds two batteries and it hardly ever runs out either. I do have a backup clip that holds AAs and lasts a long time for the 5D.

On the other hand - I will be shooting Oscar Night (a grip and grin) that will be at least a 6 hour event in a couple weeks. The flash batteries get drained pretty quick and so I carry external battery packs that hold 8 AAs (rechargeable) in each one. That will last me the night usually. I'm considering buying a Quantum Turbo 3 pack and just do away with the AAs.

 

[dmonwaxa]

Thanks JonB, great to know information. I've been playing around with some of the tips you shared with great results, will have to share those later.

 

[JonB]

WOW - a whole week just went by! Where did the time go?

 

[dmonwaxa]

WOW - a whole week just went by! Where did the time go?

My week was so screwed up I thought yesterday was today,,Friday.

 

[rkm rdt]

Jon, I set my white balance as you described but I have had no time to practice.

 

[dmonwaxa]

Jon, I set my white balance as you described but I have had no time to practice.

I never knew it was even there, I'll try an post this weekend.

 

[senthildtech]

nice photograph i was so impressed thanks

 

[JonB]

nice photograph i was so impressed thanks

help??? which photo - who's photo? what impressed you? More info would help give context to your post. Thanks!

 

[JonB]

I was playing around with the camera today with a "new" old toy. The first microscope I bought after opening the lab 25 years ago was a Meiji with a trinocular configuration. When i got it, i got the camera mount for my Nikon F3 and my old Exacta film cameras. When i switched to digital - i was told they didn't make a ring mount for Canon digitals - so I put it all in a box and forgot it.
About 2 weeks ago, i ran across the box and figured I'd give it one more try to do a google search to see if they are now available. They are!
So I got it today, put it all together and mounted it on the scope.
Uuuggghhhh! Way too dark. had to set the exposure down to 1 second and my remote trigger is not at the office. Can we say - camera shake?
So - i tried it without the 5x eyepiece and as it turns out - i don't think i need the additional magnification.
Here are a couple junk shots just playing around. I need to figure out how to light it and if there is any way to increase the depth of field - but it may be fun.
First image is a junk UCLA casting from a couple weeks ago.


Second image is just the die trim bur - just for kicks...


Depth of field is razor thin and that rule of thirds thing sorta got lost in the excitement!

 

[rkm rdt]

cool

 

[Al.]

Hi Jon,
I took a pic of a white sheet of paper it came out blue like the edges of this thread.
I used it to set the custom WB. Then I took another pic of the paper and it came out much lighter but still grey white. Not white like the paper.

I was thinking I should do it again or set the wb to the new pic.
Does it sometimes take a few tries to get the pic to come out white?

Thanks

 

[dmonwaxa]

Hi Jon,
I took a pic of a white sheet of paper it came out blue like the edges of this thread.
I used it to set the custom WB. Then I took another pic of the paper and it came out much lighter but still grey white. Not white like the paper.

I was thinking I should do it again or set the wb to the new pic.
Does it sometimes take a few tries to get the pic to come out white?

Thanks

Al. I'm guessing here so dont hold it against me. I believe the camera makes the necessary adjustments based on the actual white sheet of paper. If it came out bluish grey it just might mean the lighting is a little bit low in that area when compared to pure white well lit area..The camera should then make the necessary adjustments based on its configuration. Back in the the day photogs used a spot meter to measure the amount of light cast on their subject, and adjusted as necessary. I guess DSLRs kinda does that for you now cause I dont see many walking around with spot meters anymore. Are you using flash when setting the WB? cause the strength of your batteries factor into it. The fresher the charge the brighter it comes out. When I set mine it gives me a readout in degrees K.(Kelvin),,,yours?

 

[JonB]

Good answer! WOW - you guys are way ahead of the curve!

Here is what I do - see if you did the same thing.
set the WB on the camera to AWB
put the camera in P mode (that's "professional" mode)
snap the shot.

what that does is let the camera make sure the exposure is adequate for the image. (takes the guesswork out of it)

I never use the P mode - Program mode - for anything else - it is only useful for "average" shots and i want really good ones. But in this case average is where you need to be.

Ok, now that you have the shot, inform the camera that is the shot to use for custom wb just like in the previous example.

Then set your camera white balance to use the custom white balance you just made.

Take it off program mode and back to Aperture priority or shutter if you're shooting something moving and go for it!

That is it.

Blue indicates your shot was either shot with the wrong WB setting to begin with or else you have an overwhelming light source that made the scene blue. If setting the camera to the blue shot didn't help much it was probably the WB setting. If you were on the AWB setting for the shot - the camera would have averaged the scene and made it as white as it could. So something tells me we need to start from scratch and try again. Don't worry - this is the fun part! I love experimenting and i hope you do to.

If you still have trouble - is it possible to post pics? Maybe we can extract the exif data and have a look at what is going on.

Battery condition is important but shouldn't make that much of a dramatic difference. I see variables in exposure due to weakening batteries but not really color shifts. I'm about to pull the trigger on a Quantum Turbo SC battery pack - about $650 plus another 100 for a cord to hook it up. Photography is a hobby hole you throw money in to! ugh!!!

 

[JonB]

A second thought on Al's question.
It may just be that thing about how all digital cameras try to turn everything into a medium gray. That could be why the image of the white paper looks "gray". This is something to be expected and can be "fixed" in post-production in Photoshop or Lightroom. We can go into that once we determine if its that or a WB issue.

 

[Al.]

Ok thank you Jon I will do it again but on P.

What about my flash setting set it to 0?

I usually need to adjust it + or - a third or 2 when I take pics of cases at different angles or zoom in or out.

Should I take the pic of the paper at like 6 in and with my flash set at 0?