Cracking tabletop veneers

wwcanoer

wwcanoer

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Doing a tabletop veneer number 19, shade A1, stump shade N D7. Remember correctly, the guide suggested pressing out of HT BL 1, but I thought it be too bright, so also pressed out of HT A1.

Was able to finish the veneer pressed out of HT BL 1, but both veneers that I pressed out of HT A1 cracked in half after cooling from the glaze cycle. I'd say this is a pretty ideal prep, definitely no sharp edges to deal with. The crack ran buccal to lingual. These two veneers were not touched with a carbide bur at all. None of the veneers had any type of layering done.

So the question is, why didn't the HT BL 1 veneer crack? Or why did the HT A1 veneers crack?

Thanks

Carol
 
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Ryan Gottlieb

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Can you post a photo?
 
wwcanoer

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3786-dsc0025.jpg


3785-dsc0026.jpg


3787-dsc0028.jpg
 
RDA

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Are you using an instant refractory material to hold these while glazing? If so, I've had the same problem, but only with the instant peg form Vacalon. Try a porcelain pillow, that is what helped for me.
 
rkm rdt

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So that's what a tabletop means.

What a crazy prep design.
 
Brett Hansen CDT

Brett Hansen CDT

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We have gotten cracks in our e.max's from time to time as well. I believe too rapid cooling/heating can make these more likely in certain crowns.
 
wwcanoer

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using "custom-peg putty' from hankins

will try cooling on next

thanks

c
 
ps2thtec

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using "custom-peg putty' from hankins

will try cooling on next

thanks. (QUOTE)






Why not just lay it on the honeycomb tray; skip the putty. I stain/glaze most that way. You could double stack
the tray to get the height up. .
Could also be a Thick Thin issue?
 
Last edited:
wwcanoer

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Success, finally!

Ran through the glaze cycle, with a long cooling, and without peg putty. Came out in one piece!

Thanks everybody!

Carol
 
wwcanoer

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at the crack, thickest 1.8mm, thinnest is 1mm
 

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