So Im testing out a new printer...

PCDL

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Yesterday's build on the new shuffle XL. Using the anycubic Skin resin.

NOt bad, but it failed on 1 of the vertical models and 1 horizontal. Seems the burn in on the plate needs to be upped just a bit when you really fill up the plate to accomodate for the strong FEP full it needs to separate the material.
 

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Jack_the_dentureman

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Yesterday's build on the new shuffle XL. Using the anycubic Skin resin.

NOt bad, but it failed on 1 of the vertical models and 1 horizontal. Seems the burn in on the plate needs to be upped just a bit when you really fill up the plate to accomodate for the strong FEP full it needs to separate the material.
find the difference
 
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SO.... Resin testing. Anycubic Basic skin resin isn't a great choice for C&B models. The price certainly is alluring at $60/L, but its consistently giving me results that are too tight vs. either stone master casts or iTero models.

I can see using it for removable models and opposings, but not for master casts.
 

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cadfan

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learn the basics just because you print any resin that looks like a model its not accurate in every profesional printer resins are rescaled to reach the dimensional accuracy some more some less. start printing and measuring the parts below and rescale them a bit math or buy another printersoftware that supports rescaling or buy more accurate resins.





 

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tehnik

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So anycubic´s LCD screen is not very durable? I have read comments about it...
 
zero_zero

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So anycubic´s LCD screen is not very durable? I have read comments about it...
Cannot comment on Anycubic, the Phrozen's screen is user replaceable and it is quite cheapo to buy (~ $5 USD)
 
PCDL

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learn the basics just because you print any resin that looks like a model its not accurate in every profesional printer resins are rescaled to reach the dimensional accuracy some more some less. start printing and measuring the parts below and rescale them a bit math or buy another printersoftware that supports rescaling or buy more accurate resins.






The idea of posting this was that I'm testing resins for accuracy. The blocks you posted I've already printed in this resin, with results of +/-0.02 accuracy. But, as I'm sure you know, with smaller parts come smaller errors. Once they pass a basic block test, you need to test models to verify again. And with larger models, come larger errors. In this case, unacceptable errors due to shrinkage during the curing.

I know the basics of resin science, shrinkage, curing practices, etc. Doesn't mean that you nail a print first time out of the gate.
 
cadfan

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The idea of posting this was that I'm testing resins for accuracy. The blocks you posted I've already printed in this resin, with results of +/-0.02 accuracy. But, as I'm sure you know, with smaller parts come smaller errors. Once they pass a basic block test, you need to test models to verify again. And with larger models, come larger errors. In this case, unacceptable errors due to shrinkage during the curing.

I know the basics of resin science, shrinkage, curing practices, etc. Doesn't mean that you nail a print first time out of the gate.
i always made 3 d measurment from day one and i always was below 50 micron standard deviation for the whole model micrometer screw is just for guys with no 3 d mesurement experience if your whitin 20 micron on the parts i posted you never have such problems no way. you can always scan each printed model and compare with original data. 40 micron is a half a hair send me your data ill compare and tell you the truth
 
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Off by 3 microns, I can live with that...🤪
View attachment 32566
Try to unpack this cube in different options of installation, vertically, horizontally, on diagonal, can somehow still, and with different options of support. It is interesting whether the result of accuracy will exchange from it?
 
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People, not being sarcastic just how much is your time valueable? Because I see no point in getting 1000 usd printer and then doing all the test and research and you probably still won't get ok results...Ok, for wax ups and ortho models I guess there is many options but for C&B and implant etc 1000 usd printer won't be usefull....my 5c...
 
sidesh0wb0b

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People, not being sarcastic just how much is your time valueable? Because I see no point in getting 1000 usd printer and then doing all the test and research and you probably still won't get ok results...Ok, for wax ups and ortho models I guess there is many options but for C&B and implant etc 1000 usd printer won't be usefull....my 5c...
while i do not disagree with your assertions at all....some of these little cheap printers have akready had a lot of test and research done. pretty easy to find reasonable parameters to plug in if one were to take a few minutes to look and ask around. just sayin
 
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People, not being sarcastic just how much is your time valueable? Because I see no point in getting 1000 usd printer and then doing all the test and research and you probably still won't get ok results...Ok, for wax ups and ortho models I guess there is many options but for C&B and implant etc 1000 usd printer won't be usefull....my 5c...
It is very wide experience, for rather little money why and is not present, bought "anycubic photon s" began to test it:)
 
zero_zero

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People, not being sarcastic just how much is your time valueable? Because I see no point in getting 1000 usd printer and then doing all the test and research and you probably still won't get ok results...Ok, for wax ups and ortho models I guess there is many options but for C&B and implant etc 1000 usd printer won't be usefull....my 5c...
Well, I don't spend my free time binge-watching game of thrones, nor reposting funny cat videos of FB... instead I like to tinker. So, timewise getting things dialed in for me wasn't an issue. 🤪 Results are on a par with high end printers if not better, doing mostly C&B. My thousand bucks investment already paid for itself in the first month of putting it into production, working four shifts a day ever since... I totally understand it's not for everybody, but for me, it works...Ciao
 
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Well, I don't spend my free time binge-watching game of thrones, nor reposting funny cat videos of FB... instead I like to tinker. So, timewise getting things dialed in for me wasn't an issue. 🤪 Results are on a par with high end printers if not better, doing mostly C&B. My thousand bucks investment already paid for itself in the first month of putting it into production, working four shifts a day ever since... I totally understand it's not for everybody, but for me, it works...Ciao
Prompt what pitch you use for C&B? I somewhere read that nexdent C&B pitch cannot be used on bridges more long than 3 teeth, it is the truth? It would be desirable to print long temporary bridges which I mill from PMMA now
 
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Prompt what pitch you use for C&B? I somewhere read that nexdent C&B pitch cannot be used on bridges more long than 3 teeth, it is the truth? It would be desirable to print long temporary bridges which I mill from PMMA now
For now I am using this resin, so far so good, but it's pricey. I will keep trying other brands as well till I find the right price/perfomance solution. Monocure, Anycubic resisns are not bad but they tend to warp slightly making it inaccurate for C&B models, for opposing, ortho or diagnostic models they work fine.

Haven't printed temp bridges yet, I cannot comment Dontknow I'm still new to 3d printing...
 

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