A 13 year tested cheap cheap solution for air line h20 Greetings. I used to use dessicants and then it occured to me to try the following. I have used this method 13 years in 2 locations and because I am a coward I put glass moisture site bulbs at each piece of equipment as a double check but all have been dry for 13 years.
This works for ground level or raised compressors. My first one was in a lean-to outside and the current one is in an attic. I have now used this on 4 compressers.
1. Make a remote drain by removing the compressor manual valve (usualy 1/4") and replace it wit a fitting for 1/8=-1/4" copper line. Don't use plastic at the compresser because of the shake and heat. Loop the copper line leaving the compresser to prevent the shake from fatigueing the copper and then put a fitting to change to plastic tubing of any kind and any length. Attach the tube to the wall so it dosen't get kicked out of the compresser. Take the free end and lead it to a convenient location inside the lab and put a valve of any kind (1/4" air valve is fine and cheap) and then from the free end of the valve attach another 1/4" plasitc or copper hose and either stick it in a milk jug (like I do now) or if you have a convenient wall drill a hole to the outside and aim it away from anything (sprays and is rusty). If you drain daily you will not drain more than about a quart a month depending on your dew point. This is sooo convenient to never have to go out to the compresser in an out-building or attic or basement. If you live where it freezes the line must be protected, of course. This is the first step to your water problem -don't accumulate any.
2. Where the working air exits from the tank immediately raise your line higher than the compresser by about 4 feet. More can't hurt. This height and length will condense anything left and gravity will make it run back to the compresser. Remember we are not talking about a lot of water on any given day or pump cycle. My compresser is in the attic above my lab about 15 feet vertically from the lab floor so if there was a problem with this method I would have it with a gravity assist. But remember the water has to crawl up the line before it can slide down. I also put a clear water trap where the line distributes to the lab and it only shows a little water if I have forgotten to drain for several days. Otherwise none now for months. I also again say that NO water has found its way to any equipment water trap in 13 years. I should say this is for a 25 gal tank with 5 horses. A ginormous compressor may require more inital exit height (remember you can zig-zag to save space). I suggest you drain in the morning as the cool tank can then condense all night and you start with extremely dry air.
3. Finally as the cherry...if your compresser is outside or far away buy a "waste disposal remote control" -about $10. This has a flat sided air bulb at the control end and you attach thic plastic tube like drip irrigation tube or aquarium tube of any lenth to the compresser location. there is a air controlled solenoid that plugs into the wall plug and then your compresser power cord plugs into this. Turn the compresser on at the compresser and always leave it on. Go back to the lab and one light push turns on the compresser and the next one turns it on. Again, have used this for 13 years and never have to go to the compresser to turn it on/off or drain it. I should mention my compresser is 110V. . Never looked to see if a solenoid is available for 220V. This probably works for any length...right now I am about at 20 feet. The bulb has screw holes to attach to the wall.There is no visual clue to on/off so I put a little hanging poker chip for off and in practice I usually turn it off while it is running late in the day.
All this adapting may cost you $40 or so...and maybe 2 hours.
, Huh?
