A
Aldad
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Hi guys ,
I am new to this fourm ,as far as posting, been lurking for a while. I have always stained my pfm frames after opaquing, set the stain low temp.750c,1min. Then I do my build up. This is gives me more options for color mods. 20 years no problem. When I started working with zirc. I have been doing the same except after the stain I do a bonding layer with porc 90c.deg higher that the normal baking temp. Thus fusing the stain and porc to the coping at the same time, Then I start my build up. I use stains like emax shades or Wieland zirox stains, or the new Shofu art stains. I have had no problems with debonding as of yet. However I am a low volume lab and have only done less than 200 units. So before I have a possible problem. Does anybody have a issue with this technique. Could the stains having a high concentration of metalic oxide cause a problematic bond? Or the slight difference in cte cause cracking?
Any thoughts on this? Cheer!
I am new to this fourm ,as far as posting, been lurking for a while. I have always stained my pfm frames after opaquing, set the stain low temp.750c,1min. Then I do my build up. This is gives me more options for color mods. 20 years no problem. When I started working with zirc. I have been doing the same except after the stain I do a bonding layer with porc 90c.deg higher that the normal baking temp. Thus fusing the stain and porc to the coping at the same time, Then I start my build up. I use stains like emax shades or Wieland zirox stains, or the new Shofu art stains. I have had no problems with debonding as of yet. However I am a low volume lab and have only done less than 200 units. So before I have a possible problem. Does anybody have a issue with this technique. Could the stains having a high concentration of metalic oxide cause a problematic bond? Or the slight difference in cte cause cracking?
Any thoughts on this? Cheer!