Possible Titanium Anodizing Course

[eyeloveteeth]

I think the attachments are threaded into the bar.

bleh...of course... LOL sorry - newb moment

 

[primus]

I use maybe Twenty flat pieces of Ti hanging from a spiral of Ti wire as Cathode.

The hanging pieces are size of postage stamp with big hole in center.

Wire is maybe 1mm diameter and I wound it around a pencil, then bent the ends upwards out of my solution.

One end attached to electricity of course. The other just resting on side of Food-grade hard plastic container w/lid

Glass would have been better maybe?

I bought a few different size Ti wire on spools. I use the Ti wire to hang my parts also.

I bought a bag of Ti scrap from Jewelry place online to play with. That was a few bucks only.

 

[eyeloveteeth]

I use maybe Twenty flat pieces of Ti hanging from a spiral of Ti wire as Cathode.

The hanging pieces are size of postage stamp with big hole in center.

Wire is maybe 1mm diameter and I wound it around a pencil, then bent the ends upwards out of my solution.

One end attached to electricity of course. The other just resting on side of Food-grade hard plastic container w/lid

Glass would have been better maybe?

I bought a few different size Ti wire on spools. I use the Ti wire to hang my parts also.

I bought a bag of Ti scrap from Jewelry place online to play with. That was a few bucks only.

actually i don't know if glass would've been better - glass has better conductivity than plastic, so may affect the anodizing.

I guess what i'm trying to better understand is when you make contact with the piece you want to anodize, there is usually a "contact" spot; how do you avoid it?

I am taking old analogs and touching the analog instead of the abutment itself, was just wondering if there were better methods


now do you anodize at low voltage first and then crank it to the color you want? or are you going from alcohol straight to desired voltage?

 

[DMC]

I run Ti wire hanger thru One of the Implant holes. That contact spot is deep inside a hole.

Works fine? I do the same for abutments.

I often use a sort-of Latex masking to preserve any previous colors, or polished areas painted on with a small, natural-hair paint brush.

It peels off clean in One piece like a sheet of rubber after anodizing. Very stretchy. I bought it at Arts&Crafts store to mask canvas when painting.

I have an electrical box I made, and I "bump" the power. If I get to too low of Amps after 6-10 secs, then I re-etch and up the Voltage for the next session.

More than 6-10 seconds and you are not getting the color you want means you need to up the Voltage, and clean the Ti a little again to prevent some sort of weird grey-dead looking effect that happens when you leave it in too long.

I watch my amps drop.....I have a certian spot that I call it quits. Happens faster with little abutments. If color is not correct, then I etch for 30seconds, clean and re-anodize at higher Voltage.

My Multi-Etch, used to clean with, is at 160F on an old coffee pot machine with the top part ripped off.

I only need the bottom heater unit. Acid is in Glass.

Scotty

 

[DarrenS]

Looks like we got a good conversation going. Like is said, just feelers out. We are always looking at different ways of sharing our knowledge and finding ways to get together and drink beer, eat chicken wings and so on..... Thanks everyone for your input!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[primus]

I've been throwing out the solution, i think you're right tho, it probably reacts at some point with the air even if it's sealed - also the wand that you're using probably left some Ti particles in the solution.

I'm still not certain if this is a solution or a colloid or suspension, though that's probably really easy to look up. But even at less than 1% i still see particles gather, so really not sure if this is considered a solution at all.

Definatly a solution. OK, maybe some TSP has trace particles of unknown origin in it that do not ever disolve. Rocks and crap?

To make a saturated solution, I am looking for large amounts of undisolved TSP to gather at bottom when stiring briskly. If it keeps disolving, then I keep adding. Not looking at microscopic little particles in suspension.


(Taken from MrTitanium.com )......

1. Use rubber gloves to avoid electrocution. Follow all normal high-voltage handling guidelines.

• 1. You need an electrolyte solution in a non-conducting container.
  2. TSP (trisodium phosphate),ammonium-phosphate, and Borax are among the chemicals I've used. TSP is found in the paint department (for washing walls). Ammonium phosphate is a lawn fertilizer. Borax is found in the laundry aisle (non-chlorine bleach). It's not really critical what chemical or how strong, but avoid chlorides, nitrates and sulphates. For either TSP or Borax, about 5g/l is a good concentration (about 1/10 of saturated). Remember: The water is what does the work; the salt or acid is just an ion source.
     NOTE: Environmentally sensitive people worry about TSP and the environment. The electrolyte is not consumed. Several years of anodizing would release as much phosphate into the environment as a single load of laundry or a single treatment of ChemLawn. TSP is only bad if it gets into the aquifers: Just don't pour it down the drain! Save it for reuse, or dilute and spray it on the garden.

• I use a Rubbermaid® storage container because they resist chemicals well, last a long time, have lids, and are available everywhere.

1. For the Cathode (negative electrode): Use a scrap piece of metal immersed in the solution. I use a loosely coiled titanium wire, but anything non-rusting should work.
   Rule of thumb: The immersed surface area of the cathode should be greater than that of the anode (work piece).
   In use, hydrogen will bubble off of this piece. For large pieces, make sure you have adequate ventilation to avoid an explosion hazard.
2. The Anode (+) side is critical. All the parts that are immersed on this side must be titanium, niobium, or tantalum. Other metals, like stainless or tinned alligator clips simply suck current away from what you are trying to do.
   I have made myself an assortment of hooks and clips out of titanium, and ReativeMetals sells some nice electronics clips converted to niobium.
3. Attach the piece to be colored, the work piece, to the anode (positive electrode). It must be free of oils. I often wipe things down with acetone or alcohol to make sure they are clean. Don't allow any non-titanium parts of the anode circuit to touch the solution. I often lower my pieces into the solution on a titanium hook, or with titanium tongs (both homemade).
4. After the piece is immersed, adjust the rectified, regulated, (protected, fused) voltage to get the color you want (between 25-120 vdc).
5. Color is voltage dependant. For bigger pieces, it just takes longer. Or more current. Use fuses, an ammeter, and/or a power resistor (or a light bulb in series) to avoid burning out your anodizer.
6. Color Guide: The exact voltage it takes to get a particular color depends on many variable factors such as free-ion content of the electrolyte, surface finish of the metal, etching, stability of the voltage source, and so on. If you want 2 pieces to exactly match, anodize them at the same time.
   As a rule of thumb, the spectrum is that shown in the MrTitanium logo. The first tinge of bronze appears at around 10 volts, the near-white blue is around 50 volts, and the bright green is around 110. There is no true red, and the dark blues and violets are sensitive to fingerprints. See my Physics page for more details about how and why the colors work.
7. Never let the anode and cathode pieces touch each other; short-circuit arc welding is a technique not covered here.

 

[eyeloveteeth]

Definatly a solution. OK, maybe some TSP has trace particles of unknown origin in it that do not ever disolve. Rocks and crap?

To make a saturated solution, I am looking for large amounts of undisolved TSP to gather at bottom when stiring briskly. If it keeps disolving, then I keep adding. Not looking at microscopic little particles in suspension.


(Taken from MrTitanium.com )......

1. Use rubber gloves to avoid electrocution. Follow all normal high-voltage handling guidelines.

• 1. You need an electrolyte solution in a non-conducting container.
  2. TSP (trisodium phosphate),ammonium-phosphate, and Borax are among the chemicals I've used. TSP is found in the paint department (for washing walls). Ammonium phosphate is a lawn fertilizer. Borax is found in the laundry aisle (non-chlorine bleach). It's not really critical what chemical or how strong, but avoid chlorides, nitrates and sulphates. For either TSP or Borax, about 5g/l is a good concentration (about 1/10 of saturated). Remember: The water is what does the work; the salt or acid is just an ion source.
     NOTE: Environmentally sensitive people worry about TSP and the environment. The electrolyte is not consumed. Several years of anodizing would release as much phosphate into the environment as a single load of laundry or a single treatment of ChemLawn. TSP is only bad if it gets into the aquifers: Just don't pour it down the drain! Save it for reuse, or dilute and spray it on the garden.

• I use a Rubbermaid® storage container because they resist chemicals well, last a long time, have lids, and are available everywhere.

1. For the Cathode (negative electrode): Use a scrap piece of metal immersed in the solution. I use a loosely coiled titanium wire, but anything non-rusting should work.
   Rule of thumb: The immersed surface area of the cathode should be greater than that of the anode (work piece).
   In use, hydrogen will bubble off of this piece. For large pieces, make sure you have adequate ventilation to avoid an explosion hazard.
2. The Anode (+) side is critical. All the parts that are immersed on this side must be titanium, niobium, or tantalum. Other metals, like stainless or tinned alligator clips simply suck current away from what you are trying to do.
   I have made myself an assortment of hooks and clips out of titanium, and ReativeMetals sells some nice electronics clips converted to niobium.
3. Attach the piece to be colored, the work piece, to the anode (positive electrode). It must be free of oils. I often wipe things down with acetone or alcohol to make sure they are clean. Don't allow any non-titanium parts of the anode circuit to touch the solution. I often lower my pieces into the solution on a titanium hook, or with titanium tongs (both homemade).
4. After the piece is immersed, adjust the rectified, regulated, (protected, fused) voltage to get the color you want (between 25-120 vdc).
5. Color is voltage dependant. For bigger pieces, it just takes longer. Or more current. Use fuses, an ammeter, and/or a power resistor (or a light bulb in series) to avoid burning out your anodizer.
6. Color Guide: The exact voltage it takes to get a particular color depends on many variable factors such as free-ion content of the electrolyte, surface finish of the metal, etching, stability of the voltage source, and so on. If you want 2 pieces to exactly match, anodize them at the same time.
   As a rule of thumb, the spectrum is that shown in the MrTitanium logo. The first tinge of bronze appears at around 10 volts, the near-white blue is around 50 volts, and the bright green is around 110. There is no true red, and the dark blues and violets are sensitive to fingerprints. See my Physics page for more details about how and why the colors work.
7. Never let the anode and cathode pieces touch each other; short-circuit arc welding is a technique not covered here.

pretty much the same as us. We also start with the 12v bronze first. I know of some labs that dont.

also, keep in mind this only changes chroma, not hue, so polish the sh!T out of this if you want a high shine (Steam and clean of course).

Instead titanium bits i've been using plastic - but Ti makes more sense.


For larger pieces i have a 5.9% dilution and seem to have pretty good success, or hold it in the solution longer, as Primus does.

 

[sidesh0wb0b]

okay folks, i am looking to get some info on erratic anodizing or heat treating of Ti bars in order to create erratic and unique patterns. who can help?

**edit** the 'bars' i am referring to are NOT dental bars.

 

[eyeloveteeth]

okay folks, i am looking to get some info on erratic anodizing or heat treating of Ti bars in order to create erratic and unique patterns. who can help?

**edit** the 'bars' i am referring to are NOT dental bars.

when we used to do exhaust tips, we would plan out the colors and then anodize not dipping in, but pulling out.

 

[sidesh0wb0b]

when we used to do exhaust tips, we would plan out the colors and then anodize not dipping in, but pulling out.

is there a way to color without anodizing? such as heat treating with an argon shield?

 

[CatamountRob]

okay folks, i am looking to get some info on erratic anodizing or heat treating of Ti bars in order to create erratic and unique patterns. who can help?

**edit** the 'bars' i am referring to are NOT dental bars.

Erotic bars!?

 

[CoolHandLuke]

 

[CoolHandLuke]

Where the music stinks, and they water the drinks, at the nudie bar.
Where the girlies dance in their underpants, at the nudie bar.
Where you see their butt, and their trap stays shut, at the nudie bar.

Where you can’t touch a breast, but you can cave in a chest, at the nudie bar.
Where you look at a thigh, and blacken an eye, at the nudie bar.
Where the beer gives you gas, but the Bundys kick ass, at the nudie bar.

Where Christmas is nice, and lap dances are half price, at the nudie bar.
Where you drink down the shooters, and unwrap the hooters, at the nudie bar.
Where eggnogs are plenty, and the girls all twenty, at the nudie bar.

Where a buck’s enough to see their stuff, at the nudie bar.
Where the breasts may be fake but man do they shake, at the nudie bar.
Where you swear like a sailor, and wish you could nail her, at the nudie bar.
Where the cops are at the door, and there’s a Kennedy on the floor, at the nudie bar.

 

[zero_zero]

Dude, get a girlfriend....

 

[sidesh0wb0b]

thanks for all the super help, pervs!

 

[CatamountRob]

thanks for all the super help, pervs!

Anytime.

 

[CoolHandLuke]

 

[sidesh0wb0b]

you guys are the breast!

 

[CatamountRob]

you guys are the breast!

You're so juvenile. You really should grow up......

 

[eyeloveteeth]

You're so juvenile. You really should grow up......

something is up