need help flasking

[lcmlabforum]

BTW, the area should be as smooth as you can, but I won't run water over the half setting stone - affects the water powder ration and expansions
and I am just too OCD to do that; so maybe a wet finger. You can go back to sand it after it sets with wet and dry sandpaper, that is the way I do it.
For wrought wires, we used to drill a tiny groove along the side of the teeth, on both sides of the clasps, and seal over with a thin layer of Zinc phosphate
cement and let it set before even pouring the first half. Thanks to Mrs. Aw in our dental lab class, way back then.
This way, it is also easier to deflask and less likely to distort when you break off the investment.
LCM

 

[lcmlabforum]

BTW, listen to AJEL, he has good experience to share. And totally agree on the ear muffs, well, mine ain't the Mickey Mouse
brand, but figure Disney already make enough money I don't need to buy another one that my daughter has already (hers is
pink with Minnie mouse) . . .
LCM

 

[tilly]

Not the whole thing, just the 'foothill' area.

ahah yeah I got you ,

 

[denturist-student]

For rpd cases I will cut off the teeth down to the level of the clasps on the abutments and down to the top if its a plate....then when I am investing I will fill the undercuts with stone to block out all the undercuts.....but still leaving the framework removable.....then I will place the stone over the bar area to secure the framework during processing......then go ahead and process....of course if you need to save the existing abutments for occlusion on an opposing partial then so be it....I will then grind it in in the mouth if its a tooth born denture and on the articulator if its a tissue borne denture.

 

[denturist-student]

Don't try to scrimp on materials...Use the best possible products like whipmix and spatulate every case for the recomended time at the recommednded water poweder ratio...especially on crown and bridge and implant caseworks...the better control you have over the setting expansion the better your end result will be....FWIW on implant and rpd cases I always do my final pour using a die stone such as fujirock.....for rpds they usually have absolutely stunning final fit...It might be wise to pay your framework lab an extra few bucks for making two final models....one for processing and one for presentation....and much easier for him to just make two models for you....

 

[kcdt]

For rpd cases I will cut off the teeth down to the level of the clasps on the abutments and down to the top if its a plate....then when I am investing I will fill the undercuts with stone to block out all the undercuts.....but still leaving the framework removable.....then I will place the stone over the bar area to secure the framework during processing......then go ahead and process....of course if you need to save the existing abutments for occlusion on an opposing partial then so be it....I will then grind it in in the mouth if its a tooth born denture and on the articulator if its a tissue borne denture.

This is where a good silicone dupe comes in handy.

 

[kcdt]

Don't try to scrimp on materials...Use the best possible products like whipmix and spatulate every case for the recomended time at the recommednded water poweder ratio...especially on crown and bridge and implant caseworks...the better control you have over the setting expansion the better your end result will be....FWIW on implant and rpd cases I always do my final pour using a die stone such as fujirock.....for rpds they usually have absolutely stunning final fit...It might be wise to pay your framework lab an extra few bucks for making two final models....one for processing and one for presentation....and much easier for him to just make two models for you....

the frame lab can usually provide a dupe for less than using silicone yourself, but for some cases (analogues, or blocked out bars),I prefer to dupe it myself.

 

[denturist-student]

This is where a good silicone dupe comes in handy.

agree with you profoundly on the silicon dupe....do you know if the silicon moulds can be used to pour dentures? Maybe no need for separator.

 

[Makes Dentures]

Definitely make sure that there are no undercuts in the 1st half, everything should be smooth, and the more dome-shaped, the better. We vaseline our duplicate models with a thin coat of vaseline before 1st pour (helps when retrieving model post-processing) also, after pouring 1st half, make sure you are letting the stone setup first before using a seperator, and pouring your second half. We use a little tide with water mixed in a container and use a nice sized brush to apply the tide water to the first half before pouring second. The water should feel silky, and it smells nice as well. A lot nicer than a set of nasty dentures that you have to grind on. Who knew that tide could be used for more than washing clothes?!!

...and that wonderful, great smelling Tide may be contaminating your acrylic as it leeches out of the stone and into your acrylic during curing.... jus' sayin'.

 

[Hal Hamilton]

Aloha,
I'm new to this field and any insight would be great. I'm recently running into more problems when I'm investing partial dentures with Metal fames. when I invest the first half I use yellow stone to cover the teeth and clasps not in wax, creating a hump. once it's completed and removed from the boil out I go to separate the two sides and more time then not the hump that I created breaks off with the plaster and exposes the clasps making finishing more time Consuming because it's covered in acrylic.

Please share your knowledge
thank you,
tillyc

You can use lab putty over the humps and in the posterior area. It's very fast and will solve your problem.

 

[dborla01]

....all good responses here to the person's question....I had never guessed that you only apply separator in one direction only...I will try that next time. I apply separator to full denture cases twice, and wash off excess with light, running water between coats. Tom Zaleske suggested to me that I use Heraus Kulzer's Pala-Bond before packing cases. It seems to create a better tooth-prep situation. Darrell. PS....we use Yamahashi Crown PX composite teeth... to a considerable degree. Darrell.

 

[dborla01]

As to the chemical to be used at boil-out...I used to use Tide, back 'til the late '90's. It was suggested at that time that I switch to Dreft detergent, due to issues with Tide's ingredients. I now use either 7th Generation detergent or American Dental supply's boil out solution. I also make sure that I do not leave the flasks in the first boil-out container more than 5-6 minutes....in response to a conversation with Fricke's representative, lately. I also use a three stage clean-out before the next step. Darrell

 

[Makes Dentures]

CHOP CHOP(This is an entry level position) ...and if you use ANY additives to your boilout water it could be sucked into your stone and released into your acrylic during the curing cycle in the 165deg water. (not to mention those soaps are NOT FDA approved)

 

[highscore]

If it hasn't already been said. Block out your undercuts with wax on the first base half of the investment. No putty needed.