Anyone Electrolytically etching?

nmsmile

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Anyone out there that I can send a maryland bridge to. I need it electrolytically etched. I thought maybe it would be quicker to send it to someone who already has the stuff to do it rather than wait to get it in and do it myself. Thanks!
 
JMN

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any special reason for not doing a chemical etch?
 
nmsmile

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I have a Dr. Who is insisting on it being done this way. It's hard to find much info on it. I know it involves using electrodes, sulfuric acid and then hydrochloric acid.
 
Car 54

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I'm sorry, but if that happens again, nmsmile, were going to have to "vote you off the island".
:D:D

You were fine :) You're follow up post was right under JMN's so everybody got the continuity of it.
When it really comes in handy in quoting a post is when you see a page that is getting full,
and may go onto the next page.
 
PDC

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I have a Dr. Who is insisting on it being done this way. It's hard to find much info on it. I know it involves using electrodes, sulfuric acid and then hydrochloric acid.

I don't guess I've seen any MB's that have been electrolytically etched. If it's non precious and etched properly, it will have a mechanical bond. The most important thing is the design of the framework. It should not be able to be dislodged from the buccal or lingual on the model. Path of insertion should be from an occlusal direction only.
If the metal is precious, then your bonding options are limited. If you can find someone with a Silicoater, that would solve the metal issues and give you a chemical bond as opposed to a mechanical.
 
nmsmile

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I'm sorry, but if that happens again, nmsmile, were going to have to "vote you off the island".
:D:D

You were fine :) You're follow up post was right under JMN's so everybody got the continuity of it.
When it really comes in handy in quoting a post is when you see a page that is getting full,
and may go onto the next page.
Lol, thanks for not voting me off yet.:D
 
nmsmile

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I don't guess I've seen any MB's that have been electrolytically etched. If it's non precious and etched properly, it will have a mechanical bond. The most important thing is the design of the framework. It should not be able to be dislodged from the buccal or lingual on the model. Path of insertion should be from an occlusal direction only.
If the metal is precious, then your bonding options are limited. If you can find someone with a Silicoater, that would solve the metal issues and give you a chemical bond as opposed to a mechanical.
It is non precious. Replacing #4 & 5. There isn't a lot of space and the patient had it a little longer than a month and it came out. I think the Dr. Is trying to get as much retention as possible. I sure don't want to be married to this thing.
 
PDC

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It is non precious. Replacing #4 & 5. There isn't a lot of space and the patient had it a little longer than a month and it came out. I think the Dr. Is trying to get as much retention as possible. I sure don't want to be married to this thing.

If you can see the bonding agent on the wings and have to blast it off to re-etch, then the bond is good, at least on the metal wings. That's all you can do with the exception of remaking it to allow for more surface area to be bonded. If patient has short teeth (not a good candidate for MB),then you need to make sure you have maximum wing coverage to allow for more bonding area.
 
nmsmile

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20171108_145716.jpg Here's some pics....really appreciate the input :)
 

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Car 54

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View attachment 28294 Here's some pics....really appreciate the input :)

IMO the wings look pretty well designed. My thought is that the bite is pretty tight and causing a lot of load.
It looks like the occlusal of the 1st Bi had some adjusting. I would probably be stripping the bridge,
getting more metal reduction where needed and keeping things just a bit more out of occlusion.
 
PDC

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Looks like you gave it as much bonding area as possible. It's really asking a lot to place a MB here with a bite like this. Did you notice if you had to blast away the bonding material underneath the wings or not?
 
nmsmile

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Looks like you gave it as much bonding area as possible. It's really asking a lot to place a MB here with a bite like this. Did you notice if you had to blast away the bonding material underneath the wings or not?
No we didn't have to, there was nothing there.
 
nmsmile

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You're a braver mannequin than I. Never accepted one that wasn't anterior.
I'm thinking now maybe it wasn't the wisest decision. So maybe I'm not more brave just less wise. Lol
 
PDC

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No we didn't have to, there was nothing there.

Sounds like etching didn't take. I've had them come back before too, but they always have resin which I have to blast off before re-etching. Sometimes it takes 30 minutes or so to get an adequate etch. Gel will turn very dark and gas bubbles will form between the gel and metal while etching is taking place. As it is etching, take a bur or tooth pick and stir the gel a little so that the acid remains in contact with the metal surface. I will usually etch a 2nd time after cleaning in ultrasonic to make sure I have a good etch. Metal should have a dark grey appearance and you can check the quality of the etch by placing a drop of water on your finger and touching the edge of the wing. If etched properly, the water will spread across the wing via capillary action.
 
nmsmile

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Sounds like etching didn't take. I've had them come back before too, but they always have resin which I have to blast off before re-etching. Sometimes it takes 30 minutes or so to get an adequate etch. Gel will turn very dark and gas bubbles will form between the gel and metal while etching is taking place. As it is etching, take a bur or tooth pick and stir the gel a little so that the acid remains in contact with the metal surface. I will usually etch a 2nd time after cleaning in ultrasonic to make sure I have a good etch. Metal should have a dark grey appearance and you can check the quality of the etch by placing a drop of water on your finger and touching the edge of the wing. If etched properly, the water will spread across the wing via capillary action.
Thank you very much, you've been very helpful.:)
 
Car 54

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Sounds like etching didn't take. I've had them come back before too, but they always have resin which I have to blast off before re-etching. Sometimes it takes 30 minutes or so to get an adequate etch. Gel will turn very dark and gas bubbles will form between the gel and metal while etching is taking place. As it is etching, take a bur or tooth pick and stir the gel a little so that the acid remains in contact with the metal surface. I will usually etch a 2nd time after cleaning in ultrasonic to make sure I have a good etch. Metal should have a dark grey appearance and you can check the quality of the etch by placing a drop of water on your finger and touching the edge of the wing. If etched properly, the water will spread across the wing via capillary action.

It's been awhile for me, but good point about the bubbling and a toothpick to pop the bubbles to maintain the contact of acid to metal.
30 minutes sounds a little long? maybe 2 - 15 minute etches, where the acid will maintain its"effect-ability" (not lose strength) better?
But again, it's been awhile for me so "I like what you're layin down" :)
 
PDC

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It's been awhile for me, but good point about the bubbling and a toothpick to pop the bubbles to maintain the contact of acid to metal.
30 minutes sounds a little long? maybe 2 - 15 minute etches, where the acid will maintain its"effect-ability" (not lose strength) better?
But again, it's been awhile for me so "I like what you're layin down" :)

I’ve found that there are some variables involved such as the type of NP metal and the age of the acid. I always found that the alloys containing Be etched better than those without...but who wants to use that stuff today??!



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