advice on printing models

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Andy S

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We've been using our printer(Objet 260 dental selections) for surgical guides and ortho appliances. Some of the labs we mill for and a few of our doctors want us to start printing models for them now. The problem I'm having is the models come out fine but the dies themselves don't seem very accurate and so we're having issues with the seating of the crowns. Any suggestions? we're using dental designer 2015 and we have dental wings on a couple of machines as well. Thanks!
 
PearlZ

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are the dies riding too high on the model, not going all the way down? or are the models slumping in flat areas?
 
BlakeHarting

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I've heard that most printers still aren't accurate enough for C&B.
 
rkm rdt

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I have switched to a solid model with an extra die for the margins.
 
Sam-CAP

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It could be the materials settings. We had to make two types of settings one for quad models another for full. I'd be happy to share our 3Shape material file if you are interested --- sam (at) cap-us.com
 
WDL-Cali-Cad-Man

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We've been using our printer(Objet 260 dental selections) for surgical guides and ortho appliances. Some of the labs we mill for and a few of our doctors want us to start printing models for them now. The problem I'm having is the models come out fine but the dies themselves don't seem very accurate and so we're having issues with the seating of the crowns. Any suggestions? we're using dental designer 2015 and we have dental wings on a couple of machines as well. Thanks!

Hello I have the same printer here in our lab. Make sure that all your dies are standing up and not laying down on the printer grid, 2nd when fits are off we re calibrate the uv lamps as to make sure that the materials are cured evenly and precise. 3rd do the dental arch calibration and measure with a micronimeter to your manufacures specs. Hope this helps man.
 
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Andy S

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are the dies riding too high on the model, not going all the way down? or are the models slumping in flat areas?

The dies fit into the models fine, it's the fit of the crowns onto the dies we're having issues with.

I've heard that most printers still aren't accurate enough for C&B.

That's what we thought too but we know of other labs doing it just fine :/


It could be the materials settings. We had to make two types of settings one for quad models another for full. I'd be happy to share our 3Shape material file if you are interested --- sam (at) cap-us.com

Thanks, I'll shoot you an email.

Hello I have the same printer here in our lab. Make sure that all your dies are standing up and not laying down on the printer grid, 2nd when fits are off we re calibrate the uv lamps as to make sure that the materials are cured evenly and precise. 3rd do the dental arch calibration and measure with a micronimeter to your manufacures specs. Hope this helps man.

we print the dies standing up, do you guys print in high quality mode? I'll try re-calibrating everything this weekend and see how it goes.

Thanks for the help everyone!
 
Sevan P

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I recently did a full arch case for my trios doc 13 units he seated 10 of the 13, but the kicker is that the trios bite was off so I had to get a model printed from Argen then remount it with the blue muse he sent then rescan that printed model in and design the case, the issue was the 10 he seated were tight the other three margins were off. Not a bad success ratio but still no were near C&B ready material, great for model less single to two unit cases as a verification jig just to check contacts. Off a digital scan, once your die spacer setting are found your pretty much set on fit, just need to make sure your occ is clear and good and the printed model is used for contact verification only.

But not good for building units from scratch on. The model I get from Argen are pretty spot on and my units fit pretty good and my trios doc is happy with the results. I'd call the mfg and see about getting a tech out to help dial it in for you, you shouldn't be having issues like this.

Another way to test accuracy is have a Dr take a PVS impression as well as a digital design the unit see what the fit is. Hope you figure it out.
 
Marcusthegladiator CDT

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I have switched to a solid model with an extra die for the margins.
In 3shape. Do you have to quickly run through model builder twice? Once to output a solid cast, and a second time to output a die?
 
rkm rdt

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No,just click on the model icon in order manager and select a solid model and separate die.
 
WDL-Cali-Cad-Man

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The dies fit into the models fine, it's the fit of the crowns onto the dies we're having issues with.



That's what we thought too but we know of other labs doing it just fine :/




Thanks, I'll shoot you an email.



we print the dies standing up, do you guys print in high quality mode? I'll try re-calibrating everything this weekend and see how it goes.

Thanks for the help everyone!


Yes we print all crown and bridge digital model work in "HQ" mode and the study models in High Speed mode. I talked to my models techs and they still have to do some manual cleaning of the dies, with a scraper tool, being that the water jet is hard for them to blast in those small areas under the margins.
 
PearlZ

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i use a hard bristle denture toothbrush to clean those small dies. but yes, the same cleaning needs to heppen in the area where the die was cut in the model.

so add a hundred mics or so, in that area. they will seat better.
 
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Thanks for all the advice guys, They're coming out a lot better now. We're trying to figure out how schedule our printing so that we don't have to keep purging material. I cringe a little every single time I need to reload MED610 after printing out models.
 
Marcusthegladiator CDT

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Thanks for all the advice guys, They're coming out a lot better now. We're trying to figure out how schedule our printing so that we don't have to keep purging material. I cringe a little every single time I need to reload MED610 after printing out models.
610? Isnt that clear? 690 is beige.
 
CoolHandLuke

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yes, clearly he is printing both models and clear splints but in order to change out the material (its probably an older 260v) you waste a ton of material purging the lines.
 

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