Emax fractures and glaze

[Car 54]

View attachment 27845

My friend has been doing it that way too, with all his emax, and no problems.

 

[PearlySweetKate]

For a onlay, I'd just rest it on the honeycomb tray. For units that need the support from falling off the wire pegs,
I just put some SuperPeg 2 on the wire, just enough hump over the top of the wire, so I can see that it will stabilize the
unit.

Okay. So a full emax crown I'd be best not FILLING the crown, and making sure the wire does not touch the inside.

 

[Car 54]

Okay. So a full emax crown I'd be best not FILLING the crown, and making sure the wire does not touch the inside.

The wire touching isn't a problem, but filling the crowns is. So correct, don't fill
inside the unit, just put the small amount needed as on the peg.

The wire touching inside the crown is such a small spot as to not affect the crown,
same as putting it on the honeycomb, where it touches those thin honeycomb walls
isn't an issues, especially since the honeycomb cells don't retain heat and it dissipates quickly.

 

[CatamountRob]

Man oh man. I've had a couple of techs tell me that I should ONLY be using wire pegs, and the superpeg.

I'm so confused.

Who are you going to believe; us or them?!?
Hmmm?!?

 

[rkm rdt]

if anything comes out cloudy then you don't have enough or any vacuum.Check the firing instructions.
If anything cracks then you have a stress point . You have to figure out what is causing the stress.
expansion and contraction is a good starting point.

 

[PearlySweetKate]

The wire touching isn't a problem, but filling the crowns is...

Good grief. These are the times I wish (oh how I wish) I had another lab tech actually IN the lab with me.

These are also the times I'm so very grateful that this forum (and each of you) is here.

 

[Car 54]

Good grief. These are the times I wish (oh how I wish) I had another lab tech actually IN the lab with me.

These are also the times I'm so very grateful that this forum (and each of you) is here.

I edited that, my post...just a fyi

 

[PearlySweetKate]

Who are you going to believe; us or them?!?
Hmmm?!?

I'm more inclined to heed the advice of those that are here. The challenge is that I'm trying to get info I need remotely or through product instructions. Mashing all of that up and then using what I can.

 

[PearlySweetKate]

I'm going to give the newfound information a shot. I will stop filling crowns with SuperPeg. I will put onlays straight on the honeycomb tray. I will thin my glaze a little more. I will use the vacuum on the glazing cycle.

 

[ps2thtec]

I do this. I use a ceramic polishing wheel to buff out any residual surface uneveness, though sometimes I do neglect the grooves. Then I blast very lightly with alox, THEN stain and glaze.

Do you use a spray glaze? How do you like it? Do you feel it covers entirely? I've heard of it, but haven't tried it.

If I wanted to get a nice shine without glazing, could I use a diamond polishing paste? Does this increase the risk of fracture, or is it really a wash between running it through another cycle and hand polishing? I do use the little sponge piece against the crown when I am working on it to try and keep the temp down.

Spray glaze doesn't fill all the anatomy up. Mostly use the air brush glaze but the can will work too. Just not as cost effective. Could also polish with some zirconbrite and brush wheel, slow rpm.

 

[PearlySweetKate]

Spray glaze doesn't fill all the anatomy up. Mostly use the air brush glaze but the can will work too. Just not as cost effective. Could also polish with some zirconbrite and brush wheel, slow rpm.
View attachment 27846

Do you feel as if the cost effectiveness is replaced by the fact that you only have to fire the glaze cycle once, your anatomy is nicer, and you still have a nice, even coat?

I don't do mass production, and so I'm okay with it being slightly less cost effective if it means that I get better results.

 

[CatamountRob]

I'm more inclined to heed the advice of those that are here. The challenge is that I'm trying to get info I need remotely or through product instructions. Mashing all of that up and then using what I can.

That a girl. Always best to believe self proclaimed anonymous imaginary experts rather than real people.
Edit: I'm referring to RKM and C54, not myself.......
I've never proclaimed anything.

 

[Car 54]

Do you feel as if the cost effectiveness is replaced by the fact that you only have to fire the glaze cycle once, your anatomy is nicer, and you still have a nice, even coat?

I don't do mass production, and so I'm okay with it being slightly less cost effective if it means that I get better results.

Jensen InSync spray glaze is nice. No worries about that going milky, as well as with their paste.

Since I use the paste glaze on some of my FC Emax and FCZ, I tend to use the little dab will do ya of Super Peg
on wire, as I'm concerned about some of the glaze at the margin firing to the honeycomb, but I suppose
if I did thinner layers (of paste) or sprayed them, it wouldn't be an issue.

 

[rkm rdt]

only listen to people on here that are 57 or older.
anyone younger than that is still wet behind the ears and has never bought their own socks.

 

[PearlySweetKate]

That a girl. Always best to believe self proclaimed anonymous imaginary experts rather than real people.
Edit: I'm referring to RKM and C54, not myself.......
I've never proclaimed anything.

Ha. I definitely take into consideration the instructions and advice I get from "real" people as well. But many times I thank my lucky stars for those anonymous imaginary experts, too.

 

[PearlySweetKate]

Jensen InSync spray glaze is nice. No worries about that going milky, as well as with their paste.

Since I use the paste glaze on some of my FC Emax and FCZ, I tend to use the little dab will do ya of Super Peg
on wire, as I'm concerned about some of the glaze at the margin firing to the honeycomb, but I suppose
if I did thinner layers (of paste) or sprayed them, it wouldn't be an issue.

Awesome. I work with Jensen too, so I'll ask about it. Interchangeable with emax then?

Will do my best to not use too much SuperPeg, and not worry about the wires touching the inside of the crown too much.

 

[CatamountRob]

only listen to people on here that are 57 or older.
anyone younger than that is still wet behind the ears and has never bought their own socks.

Don't ever listen to @CatamountRob, he can't be trusted.

 

[PearlySweetKate]

Don't ever listen to @CatamountRob, he can't be trusted.

Duly noted.

 

[GarryB]

I've just checked the firing cycle and emax glaze does need a vac

 

[Contraluz]

I realize that this puts stress on the crown, and it may fracture.
.

What I have done (and that is not backed up by science or Ivoclar...),I do a crystallization cycle (program 201 and 202 in Programats) with the first shade/characterization application. This should take out any stress out of the frame/core. It also 'heals' little cracks...

Also, too much glaze at once will turn whitish/grayish when not dried properly!

When you have a big volume difference in your restoration (thick and thin next to each other),make sure you use slow cooling.

Hope this helps!

M