To debond an implant crown

Tayebdental

Tayebdental

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I have a case done seven years ago, its a cement retained single implant that the screw became lose and came off. How to debond the titanium abutment from the the zirconia crown without damage?
I know you could heat up in ceramic oven at low temp, what temp needed? Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks
 
Car 54

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Some put it in and hold at the idle temp for awhile:

I'm at 375c and hold it for 30 minutes. Maybe I don't need to hold for 30 minutes, but that was my first attempt and it worked.

You may need to use a bur or the back end of a small finishing nail to help separate the two.
 
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CatamountRob

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I just put them in the furnace at idle temp for ten minutes, then I screw them to an analog if I’ve got one, hold the analog with pliers and pull the crown off with hemostats.
 
Tayebdental

Tayebdental

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I just put them in the furnace at idle temp for ten minutes, then I screw them to an analog if I’ve got one, hold the analog with pliers and pull the crown off with hemostats.
it’s a cement retained implant and the screw became lose and can’t screw an analog in to get the ti abutment out, 1DCF2BE0-D279-4FE7-B346-0945C61C3A3C.jpeg
 
CatamountRob

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Did you try putting it in the furnace yet Tayeb? Usually the cement turns to powder pretty quickly.
 
Tayebdental

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Bingo, thanks C Rob and Scott Cheers
 

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AKDental

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Hey i just wanted to let anyone who reads this later know because i had the same question before and
the above methods do work but one thing to note is that you might think that a higher temperature will also work
because it will burn the cement but when i tried it with a higher temperature it was burnt however the ti base and crown would
NOT separate( i think the reason was it was actually burning it too much or something, i might be wrong on that) but now
I just let it sit at 1000 deg Fahr for just ten minutes and it comes out very easily every time. i use a ney centurion porcelain oven and just set the idle temp to 1000 degrees F(or 538degrees Celcius) and press button to close the oven and just wait for 10 min. longer time is ok too ive let it sit for hours and no problem. i just pullled apart by hand. Sometimes i use a handpiece bur and just shove into screw channel hole and turn upside down and press but should come apart fairly easily. And abutment will be "discolored" like a green tint from the heat and need to be polished so i would not put the screw into the oven if possible. Not sure for other brands but,
DON'T HEAT AT HIGH TEMPS IF USING '3M RELYX LUTING CEMENT' OR WILL NOT SEPARATE.
 
JKraver

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Hey i just wanted to let anyone who reads this later know because i had the same question before and
the above methods do work but one thing to note is that you might think that a higher temperature will also work
because it will burn the cement but when i tried it with a higher temperature it was burnt however the ti base and crown would
NOT separate( i think the reason was it was actually burning it too much or something, i might be wrong on that) but now
I just let it sit at 1000 deg Fahr for just ten minutes and it comes out very easily every time. i use a ney centurion porcelain oven and just set the idle temp to 1000 degrees F(or 538degrees Celcius) and press button to close the oven and just wait for 10 min. longer time is ok too ive let it sit for hours and no problem. i just pullled apart by hand. Sometimes i use a handpiece bur and just shove into screw channel hole and turn upside down and press but should come apart fairly easily. And abutment will be "discolored" like a green tint from the heat and need to be polished so i would not put the screw into the oven if possible. Not sure for other brands but,
DON'T HEAT AT HIGH TEMPS IF USING '3M RELYX LUTING CEMENT' OR WILL NOT SEPARATE.
400c is about the average for debonding, it makes cement goopy/soft/whatever you want to call it without impregnating the glaze, also I am not sure at what temp the Ti abutment begins to get funky.
 
TheLabGuy

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I use 600F (I use Farenheit because it confuses the shlt out of the offshorers :) ) with zirconia or pfm over abutment. E.max I've never ever had any luck being able to get them to separate without cracking the damn e.max in half. 600F is 315C if you all were wondering.
 
Contraluz

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400c is about the average for debonding, it makes cement goopy/soft/whatever you want to call it without impregnating the glaze, also I am not sure at what temp the Ti abutment begins to get funky.
Yeah, I would def. not go higher than 400C. I even keep it a bit lower than that.

I actually would like to know more about what happens to Ti when heated up to 400C. Maybe someone has knowledge?
 
Contraluz

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I use 600C myself with zirconia or pfm over abutment. E.max I've never ever had any luck being able to get them to separate without cracking the damn e.max in half.
Yeah, e.max and the high translucent 'anterior' zirconias crack...
 
rkm rdt

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First of all that screw came loose because of the contour of the crown. Ti bases are notorious for that.
2nd of all, we Canuck’s can convert to Fahrenheit but -32 sounds colder than .0degrees
 
Andrew Priddy

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450 idle 10 minutes..
once cool... put a screw and driver in.. turn upside down.. tap the driver butt on the table while holding the crown.. done
driver pushes the base out
 
millennium

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First of all that screw came loose because of the contour of the crown. Ti bases are notorious for that.
2nd of all, we Canuck’s can convert to Fahrenheit but -32 sounds colder than .0degrees
It's actually +32 Fahrenheit = 0 Celsius :Hello:
 
Andrew Priddy

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Yeah, I would def. not go higher than 400C. I even keep it a bit lower than that.

I actually would like to know more about what happens to Ti when heated up to 400C. Maybe someone has knowledge?
we didn't see any fracture/failure in the titanium while layering it.. we layered Nobel Bio, TRU, Straumann of course.. the failure was in the ceramics.
firing much hotter of course, to severe oxidation..
450 on a straumann abutment will turn it gold to bronze, and thats about it
 
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