Security Lock.. lets do this

[Andrew Priddy]

Ok... so these are expensive. 300.00 for 2 components. You can find their instructions, but good luck with it!

Here is my way!





Design a frame and custom Abutments.. these were Keystones done at TRU.



Where I will be drilling.. I need to tuck the lingual in as far as possible.. 1mm minimum.. i like 1.3, as it allows countersinking the screw.
I’ve ground the cone back with polishers and curved to match the abutment.. checking frequently with the pin. These aren’t easy, but there are tricks to be precise.
I Always recommend a Verified impression. The Dr’s that pay for these know this.
I mill all my frames in a slightly trans dull white. It allows me to see detail thru the frames we mill
I always section my frames and design the connectors long and thin

 

[Andrew Priddy]

Did you notice the hole drilled in the abutment was countersunk? There is a reason

Lute the lock tubes to the frame I use Piku-plast(expensive but worth it) I use tacky wax down the screw access hole

 

[Andrew Priddy]

I’m finally on an iPhone 8 Plus with an iPad...

 

[Andrew Priddy]

Clean up...

You will need to purchase their boar/ream/tap.
The kit is the 1mm kit and the tap is the 1.4 mm tap.

The driver is a .9 swept taper. You need one. In a pinch, your .9 is also an Elos Accurate scan body driver, or Neodent also uses a “bulky” .9mm driver

 

[Andrew Priddy]

Prep your screws




I actually have an Elos driver in this pic.. it allows exact control when working on these... I use the long “Nobel” scan body driver (Elos)

You need 3mm of thread minimum.
I use 50.00 ceramic polishers to prep these components.
Also, notice the abutments were polished. These aren’t easy to do precise and right. The margin on the frame went up around the lingual as well. This will “grip” at these points and give you die spacer above for temp cement should the Dr choose to use it.

 

[Andrew Priddy]

Look at the screws and notice why the abutment hole would be counter sunk? I use round carbides for this

Soon, I’ll post my driver kit and all components

Here is something to hold you over... don’t forget my UCLA thread.. I also do my frames in CAD and Acrylic



Yep.. white out.. I should do a tutorial

 

[Andrew Priddy]

Currently teaching this old (older than me) guy that’s Korean.. tough to do, but jimmys a fking machine!

 

[Jason D]

That’s....a lot of work

 

[Andrew Priddy]

It is definitely a lot of work.. I do singles here and there, but bridges are a challenge. It’s also expensive. Definitely want to avoid miss cast.

 

[CoolHandLuke]

That’s....a lot of work

understatemnt of the century

 

[JMN]

It's a nifty system, but I fail to see the value aside from a large expense toward future retreivability and replacement as part of a very long term plan.

Edit: Oh, and @Andrew Priddy you did beautiful with it. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Andrew Priddy]

JMN.. I have a few Dr’s that swear by them.. don’t know why, but that’s ok. If I had to do them every day though, I’d either put a gun in my mouth or quit and go apply at wallmart. Only problem is, I don’t like people.


White-out on the threads with a micro brush







Seat individually and make sure the screw pins the abutment.. if it doesn’t keep seating.
Then seat the bridge. I had to use the tap to clean up the part/ acrylic junction

 

[JMN]

JMN.. I have a few Dr’s that swear by them.. don’t know why, but that’s ok. If I had to do them every day though, I’d either put a gun in my mouth or quit and go apply at wallmart. Only problem is, I don’t like people.

View attachment 30691

View attachment 30692
Seat individually and make sure the screw pins the abutment.. if it doesn’t keep seating.
Then seat the bridge. I had to use the tap to clean up the part/ acrylic junction

I can't quite tell from your pictures, are you taking the 20ga wire wax to the sprue entry point?
I always had those too at the opposite side from the metal entry to allow a air escape path and prevent short castings from pressure buildup. But never connected them to anything on the other end.

I don't care for people generally either. Individual persons, sure. People in any kind of a group, never.

 

[Andrew Priddy]

I can't quite tell from your pictures, are you taking the 20ga wire wax to the sprue entry point?

I don't care for people generally either. Individual persons, sure. People in any kind of a group, never.

I do that on conicals.. NP and RP
any short casts are typically because there is thin wax. Connicals have such a wide screw that im always thin. I usually run an unconnected vent on the other side, seems to work out for me.


Did I mention that I hate laser welding?

 

[JMN]

I do that on conicals.. NP and RP
any short casts are typically because there is thin wax. Connicals have such a wide screw that im always thin. I usually run an unconnected vent on the other side, seems to work out for me.


Did I mention that I hate laser welding?

No need to weld if you wax and cast it correctly.

Now, about that white out....

 

[TheLabGuy]

Granted, you haven't posted the finals yet, but isn't that screw going to annoy the piss out of the patients tongue? Would love to hear about the whiteout though...has us at the edge of our seats . Great pics and craftmanship

 

[Andrew Priddy]

The white-out
I posted UCLA tips on here a few years ago looking for a way to protect the gold-adapts..

White-out was mentioned briefly, we used it to block solder.. so I coated a bunch and threw them in the oven.. then I thought.. oh S***! I just threw 600 worth of components coated in a bunch of white **** in the oven!

Well, it worked out, and I haven’t had to polish flash off an interface since. God I used to dread doing synoctas.

Those interfaces in the pics are not polished, bead blasted, nothing...
From the Acid to the photo

Just don’t coat and let sit.. invest within the hour

 

[Andrew Priddy]

Granted, you haven't posted the finals yet, but isn't that screw going to annoy the piss out of the patients tongue? Would love to hear about the whiteout though...has us at the edge of our seats . Great pics and craftmanship

It won’t be too bad.. if I had brought the abutment lingual wall out further it would matter.. these need to be taken to the bare minimum. I’ll actually be just under 3mm from the abutment wall.

 

[Affinity]

How often are Drs taking bridges out to justify these huge nubs on the lingual?
Thank God I dont do PFMs anymore, these are a nightmare and much more unprofitable in comparison to other options IMO. Also I dont understand how you cover those screw tubes with the dimples.. does porcelain fire on that? my guess is no, but what do you do with them, Id love to see this finished.

 

[lcmlabforum]

Always love screw-retained for implant crowns.
Need to do that whenever the bone precluded abutment screw and even ASC cannot correct beyond
25 degrees or so.
I still like my Friadent/XiVE prefab EstheticBase abutments - all come already pre-tapped, and I can use
a torque wrench to it. Not sure about yours, Andrew - can they be torqued down?
Key would be to set head of screw just about 1mm deep to cameo surface - so you can place a Teflon
and lock in from the outside with composite and make it flush . . . if space allows!
LCM