A tip or two to augment erzdaemon's advice above- I use a three-step wash process: a dirty wash, a clean wash, and a rinse. We use two Form Washes, one allocated to the dirty and clean steps. Before models hit the wash, I like to sit them on a raised wire rack for a minute or two, with the biggest concavity of the model facing down so it can drain. Always flip models between the washes, and move them around in the wash basket to different positions; I prefer to wash hollow models right-side up for the first wash, to clean out the hollow cavity, then flip them right-side down for the clean wash, so the critical model features are directly in the flow-path of the impeller.
The rinse is a little thing, but helps enormously with eliminating the slight tackiness you often get with models that are otherwise well-cleaned; there's a little bit of resin dissolved in the clean wash after it's been in use for a little while, and it will stay behind on parts coming out of that wash. Just rinse your parts in the wash basket down with fresh, unused alcohol from a lab wash bottle; you don't need to use a ton, just give every part a good splashing. This rinse carries that dissolved resin remnant away and makes it like you're using totally fresh alcohol for the clean wash.
I designed a crossflow drying cabinet for our parts; the print post-processing booth has active ventilation going to outside, so we put the cabinet in between the booth and the booster fan to outside. The fumes we extract are used to dry models before they are ejected, so it doesn't require any additional ventilation. Parts in the drying box go from dripping to completely dry in maybe 5 minutes, and the fumes from them drying are 100% captured and removed.
