Implant overdenture with double structure

Smilestyler

Smilestyler

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I am just curious about replacing an existing overdenture. When I call labs about fabricating the double structure/denture framework they seem to all want to replace the bar as well. Has anyone ever successfully made the denture part without the bar or is impossible?
 
Cleo

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It is easy enough, what is used for attachment to the bar?
 
JonnyLathe

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It is easy enough, what is used for attachment to the bar?
I'd love to know your technique. I find it very risky to try to make an overdenture to a bar if I don't have the bar and a verified cast.
 
JonnyLathe

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I suppose you could take a really good impression of the bar in the mouth and make the denture to that, then try to pick up the riders in the mouth. I wouldn't do that because risking getting the denture locked on to the bar is way too sketchy for me. If you do this you need to block the bar out in the mouth like crazy or you're in for one hell of a day. Preat makes a kit for this for hader bars and I'm sure their intraoral blockout would work. Then again, I wouldn't touch something like this with a 10 foot pole.
 
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FASTFNGR

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I am just curious about replacing an existing overdenture. When I call labs about fabricating the double structure/denture framework they seem to all want to replace the bar as well. Has anyone ever successfully made the denture part without the bar or is impossible?
That is because some think that you have to have the bar to make a new denture . A part of non replacing the bar is one knowing the attachments, two have the dentist put the new housing or not with the attached and then send you an impression of that. At the end he will have to cure the denture on the spot at the end. No biggy.
 
JonnyLathe

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That is because some think that you have to have the bar to make a new denture . A part of non replacing the bar is one knowing the attachments, two have the dentist put the new housing or not with the attached and then send you an impression of that. At the end he will have to cure the denture on the spot at the end. No biggy.
So kind of like a pickup impression where you're picking up the attachments? Then pour up and the attachments will be on the model? That seems like a good way to do it. I imagine you'd have to use PVS.
 
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So kind of like a pickup impression where you're picking up the attachments? Then pour up and the attachments will be on the model? That seems like a good way to do it. I imagine you'd have to use PVS.
Not necessarily because PVS hard to devast and might break the stone. Alginate is recommended and if they keep it wet in a paper towel it will last more than 48hrs before you have to poor it.
 
JonnyLathe

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Not necessarily because PVS hard to devast and might break the stone. Alginate is recommended and if they keep it wet in a paper towel it will last more than 48hrs before you have to poor it.
I imagine with alginate that the attachments stay on the bar, then you can simply remove them and put them in the impression?
 
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grantoz

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you need the bar to work not replace it, just to work on it no impression is ever going to be good enough.
 
Doris A

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Not necessarily because PVS hard to devast and might break the stone. Alginate is recommended and if they keep it wet in a paper towel it will last more than 48hrs before you have to poor it.
48 hours, for alginate?
 
Cleo

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The hader kit from preat works great for hader bars. If the doctor has a scanner use that. You can print out a digital model, trim the model so just the bar remains. Plug that into your alginate impression like an implant analog. Process directly on that. You can also fill the space with light cure. Before you do put housings and analogs in and fill it up
If you dont have a intra oral scanner, block out bar. I use soft red rope wax. Then place new housings and take an alginate impression and pour with implant analogs. If you are not sure or confident about the transfer of fhe housings, make an extra baseplate with hole cut outs around housings, so they stick through top of baseplate. Then you can do a pickup from the top and dont have to worry too much about a lock in.
If they can get you a decent impression it really isn't too bad
 
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FASTFNGR

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I imagine with alginate that the attachments stay on the bar, then you can simply remove them and put them in the impression?
You only need the impression of the attachments to at teeth and process and the Dr will bond them on the spot we he or she gets the final product.
 
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48 hours, for alginate?
If you keep them wrapped with paper tower in a ziplock bag they last over 48 hrs. Some good alginate states it on the box that they last 72 hrs if kept wet as I mentioned earlier.
 
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If you keep them wrapped with paper tower in a ziplock bag they last over 48 hrs. Some good alginate states it on the box that they last 72 hrs if kept wet as I mentioned earlier.
Hydrogum 5 advertises 5 days stability in ziplock and wet paper towel.
 
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